Too bad I didn't see this before, I have many sets of wheels I could have sold you cheap, including one set like the one you bought, and I am close in Lincoln CA
CK5
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1970 GMC Jimmy - Grandfathers Unfinished Business
- Thread starter Dan_P
- Start date
Bummer. Thanks for the thought!
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Nice rig! You can remove the end cap on those procomp center caps to run on the front wheels so the hub comes through.
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Nice rig! You can remove the end cap on those procomp center caps to run on the front wheels so the hub comes through.
Hoping to get some suspension guidance. Truck currently has Monroe Monro-Magnum front and rear shocks. Very stiff and likely ancient.
As of today, my use of the truck is around town / on road. Planning to leave the leaf springs and just swap out the shocks.
I'm struggling to find the specific part and most sites show no results when I search for the year/make of the truck. I'm hoping I can figure this out online, but my backup plan is to drive in (4WheelParts) to get this dialed in.
- I believe ~2" lift (not sure how to confirm that) and I would like to keep this height. 33" tires
- I read that some shocks require a modified rear bracket, definitely want to avoid that.
- For my application it really seems like any middle of the road shock will be fine...Skyjacker/Rancho/etc. I like Bilstein on my other truck but they are probably overkill for my application.
- Some reading say to take off the old shocks and measure, then buy the replacement Is that necessary? Feels like there must be some internet knowledge that can help me avoid that.
Any info is much appreciated.
Hoping to learn from someone that recently solved this and order the shocks.
If I'm missing something substantial / important, let me know.
Thanks!
As of today, my use of the truck is around town / on road. Planning to leave the leaf springs and just swap out the shocks.
I'm struggling to find the specific part and most sites show no results when I search for the year/make of the truck. I'm hoping I can figure this out online, but my backup plan is to drive in (4WheelParts) to get this dialed in.
- I believe ~2" lift (not sure how to confirm that) and I would like to keep this height. 33" tires
- I read that some shocks require a modified rear bracket, definitely want to avoid that.
- For my application it really seems like any middle of the road shock will be fine...Skyjacker/Rancho/etc. I like Bilstein on my other truck but they are probably overkill for my application.
- Some reading say to take off the old shocks and measure, then buy the replacement Is that necessary? Feels like there must be some internet knowledge that can help me avoid that.
Any info is much appreciated.
Hoping to learn from someone that recently solved this and order the shocks.
If I'm missing something substantial / important, let me know.
Thanks!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If you measure the shock eye to eye with it still installed, you can use that info to review shock specs on the Internet. Find one that has a couple inches taller and shorter than your installed length.
I bought some from ORD when I first got my K5 and they seem to work fine just telling them the year and any lift it has.
Definitely get the bilstein shocks you will not regret it. You will need to measure like @bp71k5 suggested. If you call off road design they can help with this.
I wouldn't measure the old shocks and buy new ones with the same specs--just in case the last person who installed them may not have made sure they would extend far enough or collapse far enough not to cause issues..in other words,copy their mistake..they may not have changed the shocks too,,just re-used the ones on the truck when the lift was installed---they would still "work" on a 2"-3" lift probably,but be close to topped out at full extension and possibly bottom out before the spring hits the bump stop..
I spent many hours at work in the back pages of the Monroe catalog where shocks were listed by length ,travel,and the mounting codes ,looking for suitable shocks that were a bolt on replacement ,only longer to compensate for the lift..not only for 4x4's with lift kits,but many muscle cars that guys wanted to "jack up the rear end" with longer shackles or coil spring spacers..
I spent many hours at work in the back pages of the Monroe catalog where shocks were listed by length ,travel,and the mounting codes ,looking for suitable shocks that were a bolt on replacement ,only longer to compensate for the lift..not only for 4x4's with lift kits,but many muscle cars that guys wanted to "jack up the rear end" with longer shackles or coil spring spacers..
^ this and don’t waste your time with 4WP, call ORD if you need some help. I also agree with @imiceman44, the Bilstein’s are worth the extra money.
Thanks. I'll give ORD a call next week.
Measurements eye to eye turned out to be: Front 16". Rear 20".
Thanks
Cleaning up nice!
Got my Bilstein's the other day. Planning to replace the shocks over the holiday. ORD was the way to go.
Follow up question on the Carb. When I got it rebuilt the notes said it was wired open. Looking online and at other pics it sounds like I might be missing pieces. Passenger side, on the intake manifold: can you guys tell if I'm missing pieces? Maybe I'm missing a piece from the intake manifold to the carb? Chatting with the carb rebuild shop they said there are a series of components that run from the manifold to the carb. A small silver box "doghouse" mounts to the intake manifold. Familiar to anyone here? Last picture is up close of the passenger side of the carb. I can see mounting holes in the intake manifold but unsure what pieces or where to get.
Got my Bilstein's the other day. Planning to replace the shocks over the holiday. ORD was the way to go.
Follow up question on the Carb. When I got it rebuilt the notes said it was wired open. Looking online and at other pics it sounds like I might be missing pieces. Passenger side, on the intake manifold: can you guys tell if I'm missing pieces? Maybe I'm missing a piece from the intake manifold to the carb? Chatting with the carb rebuild shop they said there are a series of components that run from the manifold to the carb. A small silver box "doghouse" mounts to the intake manifold. Familiar to anyone here? Last picture is up close of the passenger side of the carb. I can see mounting holes in the intake manifold but unsure what pieces or where to get.
Yes, they are correct about what is missing. I don't have any help finding new parts, though.
The little doghouse covers a bimetal spring which hooks to a small rod to actuate the choke in the carburetor.
The truck looks awesome!
The little doghouse covers a bimetal spring which hooks to a small rod to actuate the choke in the carburetor.
The truck looks awesome!
A couple updates:
1. Picture 1: Thanks @6872xtc for the confirmation. Struggled for awhile to find the right parts. Ultimately got a spring and doghouse from a corvette shop. Couldn't match the actuator rod so bent one myself. Runs smoother now. The doghouse wasn't a perfect fit and interfered with the carb so I had to dremel the top opening bigger.
2. Picture 2: I'm going a little bit crazy with my steering stabilizer:
1. Picture 1: Thanks @6872xtc for the confirmation. Struggled for awhile to find the right parts. Ultimately got a spring and doghouse from a corvette shop. Couldn't match the actuator rod so bent one myself. Runs smoother now. The doghouse wasn't a perfect fit and interfered with the carb so I had to dremel the top opening bigger.
2. Picture 2: I'm going a little bit crazy with my steering stabilizer:
- Current setup is with the Monroe and attaches tie rod to axle. I'm not sure what it's called, but both sides of the stabilizer are bolts that have bushings that pancake the stabilizer to the bracket (it is NOT eye to eye). Current attachment s similar to this: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/skyjacker-steering-stabilizer-kit-9800/_/R-BHNG-9800
- My OCD side wants bilstein everywhere (shocks are bilstein). Bilstein only offers an eye to eye steering stabilizer. Are people using eye to eye steering stabilizers (they seem most common)? If yes, how are you attaching? I can find a bracket that will work on the tie rod side, but not the axle side.
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You are welcome! Glad that I could help.
It seems to me that most of the time, the axle already had a bracket for the stabilizer, but I would bet that it was not until later model years. It wouldn't be a huge task to modify the one that you have, but you would need a welder. I imagine that you would probably prefer one that is made properly and zinc plated though. Understandably.
It seems to me that most of the time, the axle already had a bracket for the stabilizer, but I would bet that it was not until later model years. It wouldn't be a huge task to modify the one that you have, but you would need a welder. I imagine that you would probably prefer one that is made properly and zinc plated though. Understandably.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I never had a steering stabilizer and haven’t ever found a need to get one. Might solve the problem that way.
Interesting. Tires aren't that big but I wander all over the place, to the point it feels dangerous. I am hoping a functioning stabilizer helps (current one does nothing).
Maybe there is something else I need to diagnose. Thanks for the input.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yea, ball joints, crossmember bolts/rivets, tie rod ends, and steering box all contribute to that.
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And alignment
This is a direct quote from another forum, not my info.
set toe in at 3/16 with a tape measure
set castor at 6.5 degrees
make sure your steering arm is parallel to the ground
and use a 73 and up front sway bar
don't use a quick ration steering box
Amzing truck, your grand father did a great job
set toe in at 3/16 with a tape measure
set castor at 6.5 degrees
make sure your steering arm is parallel to the ground
and use a 73 and up front sway bar
don't use a quick ration steering box
Amzing truck, your grand father did a great job
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
all good advice, except the sway bar won’t be so easy.
I would try to borrow 4 known good tires and rims and take it for a drive first--seen many cases where the tires were at fault,even though it seemed like a worn suspension part...
