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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
Overview Gallery Discussion
I've done both, left it alone in the truck and put the rear valve after it, and completely removed it in the Regal. Has worked fine either way for me. If you don't care about the brake light then just remove it. I myself usually notice a soft pedal before the brake light comes on anyway.
 
Will that work okay with the rear drums? I'm assuming yes since my brakes are acting like what many people experience with a rear disc conversion.
 
Oh. Sorry I thought you had done disc's out back.

Maybe you should replace your stocker before you go add a extra vavle.
Not that there would be anything wrong with adding one.
I'd want the piece of mind that the factory one is good to go before you go add something in.

www.inlinetube.com

GM Proportioning Valve Front Disc Rear Drum

GM Proportioning Valve Front Disc Rear Drum
www.inlinetube.com www.inlinetube.com

But that's just me.
 
Did you once say something about pulling a trailer with this?

My original comment way back was based on the fact that a load in the bed, or trailer tongue weight would make a noticeable difference in when the rear brakes lock up. These trucks never had the brake adjustment valve. It was the seventies. Less tech in the truck, more driver technique. It was meant to haul stuff.

So will pulling a trailer mean that you readjust an inline valve?
Cuz you think about stuff... ;)
 
mrk5 said:
Will that work okay with the rear drums? I'm assuming yes since my brakes are acting like what many people experience with a rear disc conversion.
Click to expand...

Is there a gear oil leak? I know it sounds completely backwards to have oil on the brakes make them lockup easy, but that happened to me 25 years ago in the regal. The axle seal was leaking into the drum and the drum brakes got real grabby. It just seems so counterintuitive.
 
6872xtc said:
Did you once say something about pulling a trailer with this?

My original comment way back was based on the fact that a load in the bed, or trailer tongue weight would make a noticeable difference in when the rear brakes lock up. These trucks never had the brake adjustment valve. It was the seventies. Less tech in the truck, more driver technique. It was meant to haul stuff.

So will pulling a trailer mean that you readjust an inline valve?
Cuz you think about stuff... ;)
Click to expand...
I'm not if it would make a difference. I wouldn't be hauling much more than a couple thousand pounds.

beags86 said:
Oh. Sorry I thought you had done disc's out back.

Maybe you should replace your stocker before you go add a extra vavle.
Not that there would be anything wrong with adding one.
I'd want the piece of mind that the factory one is good to go before you go add something in.

www.inlinetube.com

GM Proportioning Valve Front Disc Rear Drum

GM Proportioning Valve Front Disc Rear Drum
www.inlinetube.com www.inlinetube.com

But that's just me.
Click to expand...
I've figured since the rear already seems to be over eager, I don't need rear disc. :D

A new might be worth a shot. I've also read that the combination valve can cause bleeding issues and I wonder if maybe it's causing trouble with my front brakes.
 
It's possible the piston inside it could have shifted limiting fluid to the front like they are supposed to do when you blow a hose.
 
I'm having a bit of a quandary with my instrument cluster. In short, I'd like it to be fully functional. Now that I have the electronic transmission, the only functioning guages are fuel level and oil pressure. I'm considering 2 options:

1) Dakota Digital Dash VHX version.
Advantages:
- nice tach
- I like the subtle lighting (I run the factory instrument lights about as dim as I can)
- trip odometers are nice
Disadvantages:
- Expensive
- Electronic oil pressure

prd_ssh_3648_5579.jpg

51GC1NVTrVL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


2) Retro fit factory dash.
Advantages:
- Couple of options available to drive the cable speedo with either GPS or trans controller.
- Can keep the original odometer mileage rolling
- Keep the mechanical oil pressure
- OE appeal - the existing gauges are in really good condition
- Less expensive
Disadvantages:
- Adding a factory tach would likely offset the cost advantage over the Daktronics digital dash
- Not sure if newer temperature sender will work with the 1973 gauge.
- Also need to convert existing ammeter to a voltmeter.

2021-04-11 18.56.36.jpg

Really the biggest issue is cost. The digital dash requires a big upfront cost. I think in the end converting my original dash will cost the same but I can spread out the cost. I'm debating which is the better investment.
 
There is another company that makes drop in gauge inserts I can get now very recently. Intellitronix I think. They offer different colors of analog gauges.

Found it...

https://www.intellitronix.com/chevy-truck (scroll down you'll see they offer needle and bar graph style)

I don't have any personal experience with them, but they look competitive.


6a4159_27598705d8974ab98ecb46df104c1715~mv2.webp


6a4159_d3b7cf4cc32f465cbc19946b8869234c~mv2.webp
 
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Switching out the ammeter for a voltmeter is pretty simple. I did this on my ‘75. Pull the amp gauge out. I added a couple wires to the back of the volt gauge with ring terminals. One went to ground and the other plugged into an open port on the fuse panel. I popped the clips that hold the gauge to the cluster and make the connection to the printed circuit out. I popped the clips back into the cluster without going through the printed circuit. I think I added tape or something to further insulate the clips from the circuit. Details are a little fuzzy as it’s been close to 20 years since I did that.

But the volt gauge worked like it should and I think it was a little more responsive as it had less resistance to work through.

I have a spare factory tach we could work out a deal on that I’ll probably never use anyway.

I know there are devices that work off the vss to drive a mechanical speedo cable but have zero experience with them.
 
folkenheath said:
There is another company that makes drop in gauge inserts I can get now very recently. Intellitronix I think. They offer different colors of analog gauges.

Found it...

https://www.intellitronix.com/chevy-truck (scroll down you'll see they offer needle and bar graph style)

I don't have any personal experience with them, but they look competitive.


6a4159_27598705d8974ab98ecb46df104c1715~mv2.webp


6a4159_d3b7cf4cc32f465cbc19946b8869234c~mv2.webp
Click to expand...
That is actually a affordable option, I like it.
 
"Glow shift" doesn't seem to have the American made lifetime warranty. It looks like they do make the bezel just to fit 6 seperate gauges in though. Wonder if they sell that separately a lot cheaper than the Classic Dash version so one could put some American made Autometer in easier.

The Intellitronix claims to be american made with a lifetime warranty. My distributor started selling them, no "glowshift" listed. ;)
 
www.glowshiftdirect.com

1973-1987 Chevrolet C10 Compatible 3-3/4" Black 6-Gauge Cluster Dashboard Panel Gauge Pod

GlowShift 6-Gauge Cluster Dashboard Pods for the 1973-1987 Chevy C10 Completely Replace the Factory Cluster Trim and Hold (2) 95mm & (4) 52mm Gauges.
www.glowshiftdirect.com www.glowshiftdirect.com
folkenheath said:
"Glow shift" doesn't seem to have the American made lifetime warranty. It looks like they do make the bezel just to fit 6 seperate gauges in though. Wonder if they sell that separately a lot cheaper than the Classic Dash version so one could put some American made Autometer in easier.

The Intellitronix claims to be american made with a lifetime warranty. My distributor started selling them, no "glowshift" listed. ;)
Click to expand...
There you go.
Buy that one on the cheap. And Install some speedhuts or auto meters and call it a day.
 
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