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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
Overview Gallery Discussion
folkenheath said:
I had carbureted vehicles for decades ;)

I also recently learned you have a 94 Camaro from the drag thread, which likely has EFI, and I don't see it in your "builds"? :cool:

Then again I have a Regal, and it's not in any builds, maybe I need to fix that...
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He has a build thread on it, 65 or 66 chevy
 
folkenheath said:
I had carbureted vehicles for decades ;)

I also recently learned you have a 94 Camaro from the drag thread, which likely has EFI, and I don't see it in your "builds"? :cool:

Then again I have a Regal, and it's not in any builds, maybe I need to fix that...
Click to expand...
Builds only tally of the ones in the “driveway” forum.

Scott does have a thread for that 66 though
 
folkenheath said:
How do I not know about the truck in front of it?
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1966 Chevy C20

I drove this home today: It's a 1966 Chevy C20. My first ride was a '64 C10 that I owned when my wife and I started dating. Recently we've been looking to find one of these trucks to own again. After looking at a couple of basket cases, I came across this one. The guy we bought it from...
ck5.com ck5.com

We're keeping it mostly original. I did put an MSD distributor in it shortly after buying it, but otherwise it still has the 4GC carb. We drive it around town and sometimes I drive it to work. When I was messing with engine swaps in the C10, I was daily driving the 66.

Funny thing is just last week I was having some daydreams about swapping everything from the C10 into the 66 and making it my daily work truck.
 
Revisiting my ongoing engine cutting out. It is definitely related to running the AC. After I moved the rad fan grounds off the battery, it got better but it still happened again. I've figured out if I run the AC on anything lower than the high fan setting, I don't have any trouble.

I'm still wondering if it's the climate control or the fans
 
I don't use high fan speed much with mine, but it doesn't cut out at all.
However, I still haven't figured out why it dies if I put it into gear too quickly after cold starts.
So, no help from me!!!
:rotfl:
 
ktmoutfront said:
Those blower motors are Amp suckers when on high. Do you know what the load is?
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Now that you mention it, the high speed fan has a separate fuse, and it has blown that fuse a couple of times. I'm pretty sure I have replaced the blower motor, but maybe I should double check. Or even replace it regardless because maybe the fan I have is crap no matter how new it is.


6872xtc said:
I don't use high fan speed much with mine, but it doesn't cut out at all.
However, I still haven't figured out why it dies if I put it into gear too quickly after cold starts.
So, no help from me!!!
:rotfl:
Click to expand...
I finally decided to go into the "fuel modifiers" under advance tuning and I bumped up the global 2 ticks, and I haven't been having the cold shift into gear dying issue. I had read a thread on the PF4 forum about a guy with similar issues and the tech people had him do that. Figured it was worth trying. I actually think the engine pulls harder now that I've done that.

Another reason I did that is because I noticed when the O2 sensor finally warmed up and started giving a reading it would be over 15:1 afr until the system finally got it down where it was supposed to be. After making the fuel modifier change, it will read around 13 as soon as the sensor starts reading, which is where it should be.
 
My dismissiveness, and probably a touch of laziness, almost caused me a big problem. I had been noticing an exhaust tick but I was dismissing it as me being overly sensitive. Today I thought it seemed worse and decided to investigate.

Header bolts were loose and I let it go long enough I lost the rear passenger bolt completely.

That wasn't the worst of it. Checking the header bolts led to discovering the 4l80 harness laying on a header tube. :yikes: :doah: luckily it must not have been that way long because it only melted the jacket around the harness.

Need to make a reminder to check the header bolts on a regular basis which will also provide an opportunity to keep an eye on anything laying on the headers. This was the second time that happened, last time it was a plug wire.
 
I have found when you first put them on, you need to check the header bolts after it cools down, for the first several heat cycles. Eventually, they will stop moving when cold, it could be 3 times, it could be 7 times. Whatever it takes for them to stop moving, after that, they don't usually loosen up, but it also depends on the gasket.
 
I think I only checked them once and the engine was warm but not fully cooled down. I always wondered if checking them hot would work better as long as you can spare your hands from getting too burnt up.
 
They move the most after it's cool, everything expands when hot, crushes the gasket more, then it cools down and loosens up.

And Scott, I know you can do better than to have two instances of wires touching your headers. You usually do a very thorough job, sounds like just a little more time securing wires in the proper location are needed.
 
I was trying to figure out how this last one happened. I have them bundled up with the PF4 harness in a heat sleeve. I realized the sleeve slid back allowing the 4l80 harness to drop down on the header. I placed a zip tie to keep the sleeve from sliding again.
 
Changed the oil today, 10/15. I'm using the Amsoil signature oil and filter that's 1 year or 25k miles. I had decided I was going to change the oil at 12k miles regardless. I pulled the filter and written in sharpie was the date 10/14/2022. Guess I was following the 1 year interval without realizing it.
 
Truckman4life said:
I don't know if I could bring myself to wait that long mileage-wise.
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I agree, no matter how good the oil is, it can still get contaminated from normal combustion. Some people change the filter more often than the oil in those situations, however, since there is usually a filter bypass, I prefer to just put fresh oil in.
 
I definitely couldn't do 25k. 90% of the miles on this truck are easy, flat highway which is why I don't mind the longer interval.
 
Got tired of the 4 year old white wagon spokes that are rusting and picked up a set of old Torq Thrust wheels.

20231101_081414.jpg

I did not anticipate them not fitting over the calipers because they were made to fit drum brakes. I ended up with 1/2" spacers.

In order to get proper thread engagement I had to get longer mag lug nuts. I ended up with 1-3/8" long which are 3/8" longer than the wheel flange is deep. I drilled out the spacer to accommodate the diameter of the lug nut shank so it threads down into the spacer.

20231031_190147.jpg

I got the spacers on Amazon and I really like them. Biggest reason is the hub bore fits both the rotor and the drum perfectly so all I had to do was make sure the spacer was clocked to the center of the studs.

I also had to get them balanced with beads because stick on weights would have hit the calipers.
 
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