beags86
Eastbound and Down
Bahahahah, I just called him on for that on another thread....I noticed you were posting up in all the C10 threads.
Then I found this.
Might as well retire "Big Jim" now, he's got 2wd fever....
CK5
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Then I found this.
Might as well retire "Big Jim" now, he's got 2wd fever....
But, but, I just got it running?!
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Fight the addiction Greg!
My first vehicle was a 64 C10, but I wanted a 4x4 in the worst way. I remember an older guy telling me not to do it, that a 4x4 is twice the expense as building a 2wd. I was thinking now that I have a C10 again, that guy was right. Way less complications on the 2wd.
Don't get me wrong, I do still like having a 4x4 as well. I wouldn't be happy with only a 2wd truck.
Don't get me wrong, I do still like having a 4x4 as well. I wouldn't be happy with only a 2wd truck.
Anyone know why they don't list AC/heater controls for 1973?
I figured out when I put the fan on high it doesn't run at all. I was thinking about trying to replace the switch since the "chrome" is flaking off anyway. Then I was thinking about doing the entire control piece because the controls are hard to slide. I've looked on a couple sites and they skip 1973. They have a 69-72 and 74-75. They list the fan switch for 73-82. Why would 73 be skipped for the controls?
I figured out when I put the fan on high it doesn't run at all. I was thinking about trying to replace the switch since the "chrome" is flaking off anyway. Then I was thinking about doing the entire control piece because the controls are hard to slide. I've looked on a couple sites and they skip 1973. They have a 69-72 and 74-75. They list the fan switch for 73-82. Why would 73 be skipped for the controls?
While I have no answer for you, did you check the high speed fan relay?
It should have it, the '72 has it.
That was the problem with my fan on my '72
No, I will have to seek it out.
The only difference I see between the 73 and my father-in-law's 75 is the "ECONOMY" label:
73:
75:
73:
75:
@6872xtc will be proud, I have functioning AC in this truck! I need to purchase the idle solenoid to kick up the idle when the AC is on. The truck will run without it, but just barely. I had really planned to get it working but it's been warmer and I stopped by the mechanic we use for our business vehicle kinda on a whim. I asked if he thought it would work as is, and he said it was complete enough all they could really do is put a charge in it and see how it goes. They had to replace a couple of orings, but that's it.
Welcome to the comfortable side!!
That's kinda neat, err cool!
People don't expect it the air to work in old trucks, you will probably be surprised by some reactions.
I hope that it holds the freon well.
That's kinda neat, err cool!
People don't expect it the air to work in old trucks, you will probably be surprised by some reactions.
I hope that it holds the freon well.
Is it still R12?
They put R134 in it. 
The cab gets nice and cold. And then the motor gets good and hot! I figured I would need to radiator, and I was right.
It also needs the idle kick-up solenoid. I ordered the bracket for it. I was thinking that if needed I will add an electric fan on the condenser but I think it will be okay once the radiator is taken care of.
Also figured out why I had no high speed fan with the climate control. The in-line fuse was blown. The circled one below. The sad face fuse is some crazy previous owner contraption, I think to charge a battery in the camper.
I pulled the fuse from the sad face fuse holder so I don't have to worry about it causing trouble.
I was actually thrown for a loop. When I got the truck back from the mechanic all I had was high speed, and it seemed higher than before. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how the fan could be on high only now after replacing the fuse. I had decided it was the switch. Then I remembered reading these old trucks had a type of "Max AC". The mechanic had the temperature lever all the way to the COLD side. Once I popped it over a little towards hot, I could change the fan speed again.
This entire time I had thought the temperature control module just had a sticky spot over on the COLD side.
The cab gets nice and cold. And then the motor gets good and hot! I figured I would need to radiator, and I was right.
It also needs the idle kick-up solenoid. I ordered the bracket for it. I was thinking that if needed I will add an electric fan on the condenser but I think it will be okay once the radiator is taken care of.
Also figured out why I had no high speed fan with the climate control. The in-line fuse was blown. The circled one below. The sad face fuse is some crazy previous owner contraption, I think to charge a battery in the camper.
I pulled the fuse from the sad face fuse holder so I don't have to worry about it causing trouble.
I was actually thrown for a loop. When I got the truck back from the mechanic all I had was high speed, and it seemed higher than before. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how the fan could be on high only now after replacing the fuse. I had decided it was the switch. Then I remembered reading these old trucks had a type of "Max AC". The mechanic had the temperature lever all the way to the COLD side. Once I popped it over a little towards hot, I could change the fan speed again.
This entire time I had thought the temperature control module just had a sticky spot over on the COLD side.
I've also been fiddling with the carb tuning a bit more. Still had a lean bog off a stop, especially when cold. Factory installed was .031 accelerator pump nozzles. I had assumed it would be the basic straight nozzle type, but it was actually the anti-pullover style.
The left one was in the carb and the right one was the .035" I swapped in. It was better, but not perfect so I put in a .037" nozzle. This one I did the anti-pullover style. Here's where it's located on the carb. Not the easiest to get to.
It uses a button head screw that uses a 7/32 wrench. The anti-pullover style is easier to install because you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold onto it.
The left one was in the carb and the right one was the .035" I swapped in. It was better, but not perfect so I put in a .037" nozzle. This one I did the anti-pullover style. Here's where it's located on the carb. Not the easiest to get to.
It uses a button head screw that uses a 7/32 wrench. The anti-pullover style is easier to install because you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold onto it.
I forgot to mention, the first thing I tried before changing nozzles was to move the accelerator pump arm to the #1 hole, it's factory set in the #2 hole.
That too was an improvement, but not enough.
That too was an improvement, but not enough.
Picked up a solenoid to kick the idle up when the AC is running:
At least that's what I thought it was. However it must an anti-dieseling solenoid I read about because it gets power all the time regardless of whether the AC is on or off. I'm going to have to see if I can wire it up differently to work with the AC or if I have to just put it on a manual switch.
Apparently the anti-dieseling solenoid kicks the idle up to normal while the vehicle is running and then when the vehicle is shutoff it drops the throttle way down to prevent dieseling. Sounds like a band-aide fix from the factory to me.
At least that's what I thought it was. However it must an anti-dieseling solenoid I read about because it gets power all the time regardless of whether the AC is on or off. I'm going to have to see if I can wire it up differently to work with the AC or if I have to just put it on a manual switch.
Apparently the anti-dieseling solenoid kicks the idle up to normal while the vehicle is running and then when the vehicle is shutoff it drops the throttle way down to prevent dieseling. Sounds like a band-aide fix from the factory to me.
Finally going to have time to replace the brake pads this weekend. Planning to grease the wheel bearings too, probably hasn't been done in eons. Looking at the procedure, it's SOOO much different that the 4wd.
Now I understand why @GWeakland620 and @Kay86K5 are keeping their rigs 2wd......
Now I understand why @GWeakland620 and @Kay86K5 are keeping their rigs 2wd......
I am a little concerned about my ability to install something without a torque spec....
Finally going to have time to replace the brake pads this weekend. Planning to grease the wheel bearings too, probably hasn't been done in eons. Looking at the procedure, it's SOOO much different that the 4wd.
View attachment 306033
Now I understand why @GWeakland620 and @Kay86K5 are keeping their rigs 2wd......
I have done wheel bearings basically like that on everything, even the big trucks at work. Never had a problem as far as I knew. I got a magnetic stand and dial indicator a couple of years ago and we were able to confirm that we were doing it right. It's kinda cool to see the actual measurement!
LOL that's how I do all wheels bearings on semis and everything. Tight then back off then snug and call it good.
