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1973 C10 "The Purple Truck"

Basic build
Overview Gallery Discussion
I'm hoping to have the trans work done so I can install it the first weekend in March.

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After making 2 large puddles under the stand, I finally bought a big drip pan. No matter how careful I am, I always end up with a big puddle of trans fluid on the floor. This time I had just pulled the drain plug and I thought "I should make sure my drain pan is squared up on the stand" and sure enough it tipped over and spilled.

That black rectangular pan holes up to 11qts. I'm thinking there was probably 8 or 9 qts that came out. At that point I realized I needed to order more trans fluid.
 
skunked said:
I cut a piece of plywood to fit one of my stands. Much more stable and large enough for Rubbermaid container.
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I was looking at the selection if engine stand drain pans and they aren't great. I figured homemade might be the better option.

Another thought I had was an old speaker magnet in the bottom of a bigger pan to hold it in place.
 
I have a piece of plywood with screws ran though it on each side of the center bar. Keeps me from bumping it off. Then large drip pan and smaller bucket. And a drain plug gets installed in any pan that I remove.
 
Most of the connector clips broke. :frown1: Any tips to deal with this or am I stuck getting a replacement harness.

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Didn't even put much pressure on them, especially after the first one broke.
 
They get brittle from the heat. It's up to you if you want to risk them coming lose or replace the harness. You can replace the harness just by dropping the pan, but it's easier to do it now.
 
Been working on valve body mods. Seemed like the more I read about the 4l80, the more I found could be upgraded. Some of it comes in the TransGo HD2 kit I'm using and some of it is additional Sonnax stuff.

First one is an extra Sonnax item, a TCC regulator valve kit.

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First thing is to pop up the retaining clip for the solenoid - just requires a small flathead screw driver.

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The clip and solenoid are at the bottom of this picture:
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To get the roll pin out you need skinny needle nose pliers with at least 2.5" reach; I had to go buy a pair.

New valve (right) versus old (left):

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I opted for the firmer spring. The ring leaning against the spring is a split seal that goes on the end of the valve.

The other additional kit I picked up is made by TransGo. I found a number of places mentioning that if a 4l80 has over 100K miles, the BORE for the actuator valve will be worn. The solution is to bore it out and put a new valve in.

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Here you can see the clip that holds mine in.

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To get the clip out, push the spring in with a small screw driver and pull the clip out with a magnet.

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The worst part about the whole procedure is all of the swarf. I spent more time cleaning out the valve body than I did boring the hole. There are 4 "walls" to ream and it makes short work of them.

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Here is the old valve (right) compared to the new valve (left):

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The final extra Sonnax part I installed is a new shift shaft. The original is too long because it would normally have the park/neutral assembly to pass thru as well.

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I still have a few more items to do before buttoning up the transmission.
 
Did your actuator valve have any slop in it or you just bored it out based on miles?
 
folkenheath said:
They get brittle from the heat. It's up to you if you want to risk them coming lose or replace the harness. You can replace the harness just by dropping the pan, but it's easier to do it now.
Click to expand...
I went ahead and ordered a new harness. I was watching the 4l80e Class video and he mentioned the pressure switch manifold is something to replace with a rebuild. It's only about $30 so I figured might as well order that along with the harness.


folkenheath said:
Did your actuator valve have any slop in it or you just bored it out based on miles?
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I didn't check it for wear. The trans has 80K miles, so I figured I should go ahead and do it.

The down side is the kit comes with the pieces to do (6) repairs which means it's not cheap. However it is the cheapest way to address the issue. If anyone on CK5 ever needs to do this with their 4l80, I could sell the kit along to the next person.
 
I've only done a few, but I haven't ever bored out the actuator valve bore.

I do typically replace the harness, both shift solenoids, and PSM when I rebuild them though.

You are replacing a lot of stuff for not actually rebuilding it, very thorough shift kit install! :waytogo:
 
folkenheath said:
I've only done a few, but I haven't ever bored out the actuator valve bore.

I do typically replace the harness, both shift solenoids, and PSM when I rebuild them though.

You are replacing a lot of stuff for not actually rebuilding it, very thorough shift kit install! :waytogo:
Click to expand...
I'd call it the lazy man's rebuild. Haha. Or I suppose the most accurate would be valve body rebuild. I just ended up chasing down the rabbit hole of things that could be done with the valve body out.

I was debating about replacing solenoids too....... :thinking:
 
I didn't know that you were going to go into this. I bought the kit to do the actuator feed limit valve on mine. I could have sold you one.
Mine worked fine with 280K, but we did a full build, since I don't like stock automatic transmissions.
 
There are probably lots of people who own that kit with 5 sets still left. :rotfl:

As easy as the reamer went thru, I can easily see it lasting a long time.
 
HHHMMM.

I am going to start on my 4L80E this weekend. But I was not going to crack it open as it has 1000 miles since a respectable shop did a rebuild and upgrade.
 
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