CK5
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1973 K10 : Chloe

1973 K10 offroad build
What is the sending unit you have assembled? Are the fuel hoses threaded ends or push on with a clamp ?
I’m using AN -6 compression fitting to join the pump hard lines to the fuel hose. Seemed the only logical way to make this work.
I have the stuff to silver solder a high pressure EFI end onto the fuel pump hard lines. But, why make more work when compression fittings make quick easy work of making old work with new?
 
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I’m using AN -6 compression fitting to join the pump hard lines to the fuel hose. Seemed the only logical way to make this work.
I hav ethe stuff to silver solder a high pressure EFI end onto the fuel pump hard lines. But, why male
More work when compression fittings make quick easy work of making old work with new?
I did the same for mine, has worked great.
 
First off, installed the footwell heater duct, then had to manufacture a bracket to hold on the defrost duct above the footwell.

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Then started the Electrical side of this work. Battery and battery shutoff switch installed, now I need to route the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE cables over to the RH side of the bed, then, mount the pass-throughs.

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Then finished the fuel line, and filter
Install. I still need to secure the hoses to the frame, but, it’s in and waiting till I get a free hour of two.

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We have power(RED), Key-On Power(YELLOW) and ground(BLACK), in the cab. Drilled a 2” hole through the firewall, built my “feed” harness, and stuck it in.

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I also routed and secured fuel hoses and Battery cables to the frame.
 
Did you deburr that hole, and gonna use a gromet of some type?
Yep, my go to is get a length of 5/16 or 3/8 fuel hose, slit lengthwise, long enough to completely fit the inside diameter of the hole, apply a little bit of RTV.
That is usually sufficient to stop all chaffing of wires against metal edges.
After the entire harness is installed, go back with a caulk gun with a tube of black RTV, and totally seal the hole with black RTV.
The fuse block harness is not installed yet, with it in there also . The fuse block harness will almost completely fill up that hole, by itself

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Let the electrical games begin…
New harness, I had to read the destructions from back to front before I got started. Then, after finding a bunch of the wires needing to be deleted, plus, finding several of the wires miss-routed on the harness itself. I elected to just cut away all the tape holding it together.

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Held the fuse-block up to the firewall to get the measurements for the bolt holes.
Drilled to 3/8ths to install a couple of 1/4x20 rivnuts. Fuse-block is now bolted up.

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Separating the different wire bundles, gauge panel, external lights front and rear, wiper, washer, horn, dash panel and interior lights, and accessories.
 
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