I’m just trying to get it water tight.
CK5
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Nothing wrong with that, me too but I want to be a stock nazi the next revision on the truck with the body.
Beefy!
Got this to protect those expensive hydraulics for the full hydro steering ram. Should be able to modify it to use with leaf springs. Many people have done it.
Got this to protect those expensive hydraulics for the full hydro steering ram. Should be able to modify it to use with leaf springs. Many people have done it.
New solid 1480 U joints installed in new 1.5” 35 spline outers.
Scored the 1480 joints super inexpensive
$49.95/pair shipped!
Scored the 1480 joints super inexpensive
$49.95/pair shipped!
Chineesium in the bag for emergencies. New spicers installed
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Cut out the drivers side door sill that was severely cancerous. Welded in a 50” long piece of 2”x3”x 0.250 wall rectangle tube.
Then decided it was time to install new body bushings. They were severely rotted also.
What a PITA job bushings are, when you’re by yourself.
Then decided it was time to install new body bushings. They were severely rotted also.
What a PITA job bushings are, when you’re by yourself.
That's a good idea using a 2x3 for the sill
From the CK5 chop shop!
Thanks Kenny!
Thanks Kenny!
Finally got the driver side floor done. Now I can start installing the roll cage.
This how fires get started. Leaves everywhere
This how fires get started. Leaves everywhere
Installed the main hoop for the cage today.
I made two little brackets out of 1.5”X1.5” angle iron. Cut off two 1.5” pieces of it, drilled a 9/16 hole in one side of each. Then used two 1/2X1.5”X 13 tpi bolts into the top shoulder belt bolt holes. Tightened them up tight, while centering the piece of angle vertically. Using prybars and C-clamps to push and pull the hoop to the angle iron. Then weld them together on both drivers and passenger sides.
I made two little brackets out of 1.5”X1.5” angle iron. Cut off two 1.5” pieces of it, drilled a 9/16 hole in one side of each. Then used two 1/2X1.5”X 13 tpi bolts into the top shoulder belt bolt holes. Tightened them up tight, while centering the piece of angle vertically. Using prybars and C-clamps to push and pull the hoop to the angle iron. Then weld them together on both drivers and passenger sides.
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Awesome that the cage is going in.
I was finally able to get a bell-crank style pivot to make the “fresh air to the cab” door actuate using push pull cables.
Getting it installed was no fun up under the cowl area.
Getting it installed was no fun up under the cowl area.
With that being complete, I can now install the dash and the “B” pillars of the roll cage, which will probably need to be installed simultaneously. (I know, big word, right) but, it’s probably the only way I’m going to be able to get the “B” pillar for the cage, with them running through the dash
Is this the Diy4x cage?
No, I bought this one from Competition Engineering. DIY4X had stopped making them by the time I bought this one.
I’ll have to check them out
So, I was not happy with the functionality of the fresh air door. I modified it to use a push/pull cable instead of the vacuum diaphragm.
I couldn’t get the door to open all the way with the cable. Probably the way I mounted the cable to it.
I remade it this time with using piece of 7/32 stainless drill rod, made a guide for it and welded some ends on it, and Bobs yer uncle. Works great now.
Old way, using cable.
New way using piece of drill rod
I couldn’t get the door to open all the way with the cable. Probably the way I mounted the cable to it.
I remade it this time with using piece of 7/32 stainless drill rod, made a guide for it and welded some ends on it, and Bobs yer uncle. Works great now.
Old way, using cable.
New way using piece of drill rod
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I built a couple of stand-off boxes to give a flat horizontal surface to mount the A-pillars of the cage to.
Constructed of 1/4” plate. With a reinforcement plate sandwiching the floor on the outside. Which also gives me a solid surface to weld to when I need to for the rock sliders.
Constructed of 1/4” plate. With a reinforcement plate sandwiching the floor on the outside. Which also gives me a solid surface to weld to when I need to for the rock sliders.
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Started out today(after church) by assembling the DIY4X Competition Dash.
This thing is as cool as I remember it. I bought it 4 years ago, in the spring of 2022. It’s been hiding under my workbench in my garage ever since.
I had to move my tubing bender so I could use it, and saw it under there.
I thought “you know what? I’m gonna install the cage B pillars through the dash, I might as well assemble it, so it’s ready when I need it.”
Took about an hour to assemble.
Then, moved on to start bending tube.
I’ve got B pillars already as part of the Competition Engineering cage kit I bought several years ago.
Problem is, those B pillars are made for a single center seat(read: single center seat, C series pickup)
That’s not me. So, here I am, bending up an upper hoop to attach to the rear hoop I already installed (after widening it about 10 inches) so it would fit the full width of the cab. After that, I can cut down the B pillars I already have to attach to the upper hoop. I’m going to have to use a hole saw and drill a couple of 2” holes near the outer corners of the dash to run those B pillars through it down to the stand off boxes I built
Whining and complaining…
When you don’t use your tube bender for a while you forget how much math you have to do to get stuff to work out correctly. I had to sit and stare at stuff for a bit.
Mess ups are expensive as tube isn’t cheap like it used to be.
Plus, this bender has a learning curve concerning its use. I’m covered in pinches, bruises, and small cuts.
Tube bending
CLR = Center Line Radius
Whatever CLR radius is add that much distance to length of flat in-front of bend. That length may be incorporated into any length needed in-front of the bend.
Length = (π × CLR × Degrees) / 180
2.5 CLR
2.5 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 ( degrees)
/180
= 3.925” or 3-15/16”
3.5 CLR
3.5 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 (degrees)
/180
= 5.495” or, 5-1/2”
4.5 CLR
4.5 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 (degrees)
/180
= 7.065” or, 7-1/16”
6.0 CLR
6.0 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 (degrees)
/180
= 9.42” or, 9-7/16”
This thing is as cool as I remember it. I bought it 4 years ago, in the spring of 2022. It’s been hiding under my workbench in my garage ever since.
I had to move my tubing bender so I could use it, and saw it under there.
I thought “you know what? I’m gonna install the cage B pillars through the dash, I might as well assemble it, so it’s ready when I need it.”
Took about an hour to assemble.
Then, moved on to start bending tube.
I’ve got B pillars already as part of the Competition Engineering cage kit I bought several years ago.
Problem is, those B pillars are made for a single center seat(read: single center seat, C series pickup)
That’s not me. So, here I am, bending up an upper hoop to attach to the rear hoop I already installed (after widening it about 10 inches) so it would fit the full width of the cab. After that, I can cut down the B pillars I already have to attach to the upper hoop. I’m going to have to use a hole saw and drill a couple of 2” holes near the outer corners of the dash to run those B pillars through it down to the stand off boxes I built
Whining and complaining…
When you don’t use your tube bender for a while you forget how much math you have to do to get stuff to work out correctly. I had to sit and stare at stuff for a bit.
Mess ups are expensive as tube isn’t cheap like it used to be.
Plus, this bender has a learning curve concerning its use. I’m covered in pinches, bruises, and small cuts.
Tube bending
CLR = Center Line Radius
Whatever CLR radius is add that much distance to length of flat in-front of bend. That length may be incorporated into any length needed in-front of the bend.
Length = (π × CLR × Degrees) / 180
2.5 CLR
2.5 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 ( degrees)
/180
= 3.925” or 3-15/16”
3.5 CLR
3.5 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 (degrees)
/180
= 5.495” or, 5-1/2”
4.5 CLR
4.5 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 (degrees)
/180
= 7.065” or, 7-1/16”
6.0 CLR
6.0 (CLR) x 3.14 (pie) x 90 (degrees)
/180
= 9.42” or, 9-7/16”
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That bender is a pain to learn how to bend on.
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