CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1974 K10 Dirty Sancho

Saved from cruel and unusual punishment
It’s dying while it’s in open loop. The AFR is bouncing around during the process. It’s acting like it’s running out of fuel or the ignition is being turned off because it’s an abrupt shutoff. After 15-20 restarts and it dying it will run and stay running once it gets to the closed loop.
Does running the throttle pedal help? When I've had starting issues I can get it to run with some light pedal action, kinda like it was a carb. Then once the O2 is heated up and it goes closed loop, it idles smooth. Now it's just the putting it in gear cold that's the issue but I can get around that with just a little throttle.

You could also play around with the cold enrichment. It might need a little more fuel when the motor is cold. In my case, I've found it actually needs a little less fuel it seems. Once the AFR is reading other than 10.0, you can watch the Short Fuel Trim (SFT) and if the number is higher than 5 or so (which means it's adding fuel to the base map), you might need to add cold enrichment. If it's a negative number of -5 or lower (which means it's taking fuel away from the base map), you can try subtracting some cold enrichment. You can do the cold enrichment in one number across the board or click the ADVANCE button and adjust it by temperature range. The goal is to get the SFT close to zero or just 1 or 2 points negative. That's based on some posts from the techs over on the PF4 forum.

A couple of mornings ago, it really didn't want to start. After a couple of attempts I got it to stay running with some light use of the throttle pedal. I had been adding cold start enrichment before then but I noticed the SFT was pretty big negative so I went back to zero. It seems to be starting better now. I've actually got it about -5 on the cold start enrichment. So far in 2 mornings, it's starting without any help.
 
Yes, giving g it throttle keeps it alive but I know that’s not correct. I bumped up the cold fuel enrichment by 5% and it still died after running for 5-10 seconds. Bumped up another 5% (10% overall) and it stayed running. That might just be the fix......

I picked up the rear driveshaft this morning and installed it. Time for a rip around the block.
 
The drive around the block went pretty well, kinda difficult to find third but that might be me. I forgot how worthless the 1st gear is on the street too.

I figured out the belt noise was just a shitty belt I bought through rockauto. No idea what brand it is but it’s about half the thickness of the gates belt I bought from orielly’s and the shitty belt was hair longer. Moral of the story, don’t buy shitty belts.

Some more parts showed up today and I expect more tomorrow hopefully.
 
The package from Auto Metal Direct arrived with the radiator top plate so I can finish mounting the radiator. Small spacers had to be added to make up about 3/4” of radiator height which was easily accomplished with some scrap steel under the bottom poly bushings. I also added four 5/16” nutserts to fasten the top plate to the radiator support.

33963DD7-A172-4683-8FEE-3FE14F32CD95.jpeg

0F69539D-07A4-4605-B22B-B130F5E7FCB2.jpeg

0215F451-4C7E-4C9D-9A39-855B1F3A395A.jpeg

151D0949-AC34-4947-B237-43855DD48379.jpeg
 
Few updates.

The bumper is back on with all new hardware along with blasted and painted brackets. The bumper is a little banged up but it looks decent enough for this truck.
full


picture of the 1350 CV driveline that I had built.
full


and this leads me into another checklist item, pinion angle. As you can see from the pic below, it's pointing up about 1.65sh degrees from zero so I'm trying to decide between a 2 or 4 degree shim. Leaning toward a 4 because of axle wrap.
full


replaced the broken lock on the glove box with a LMC replacement.
full


In the package from LMC was the front e-brake cable to replace the rusty cross threaded one I cut off. Turns out the 73-74 C10 has a shorter cable per LMC and the one I ordered is the longer version for other K5's, trucks and burbs :doah:Really bugs me that LMC doesn't list any specs like lengths for cables so you know wtf your buying. I ended up ordering the right cable last night (50.98" overall length) along with some door bumpers and rear bumper brackets from Ecklers. Once I receive this cable I should be able to assemble the rest of the E-Brake system so it's functioning properly.
full


When I first backed this truck out of the driveway I heard some rubbing and realized the front drivers tire tore the trim off the fender. Keep in mind these are fresh 4" tuff country HD springs. I removed the trim for the meantime but I still need to deal with the clearance issue. The truck sits slightly raked right now so I'm leaning toward a EZ Inch over a 1" body lift however I won't be surprised if the rear springs (new 52's with a 4" flip) also settle some. I really don't want to cut the fenders on this truck so I'm trying to find a fix this without the use of a cut off wheel. Phat block problems.......

full


full
 
I love those wheels!

On the picture of the glovebox latch looking at the emblem on the dash trim, what is that little graphic supposed to be in the square on the right? A cowboy hat?
 
I love those wheels!

On the picture of the glovebox latch looking at the emblem on the dash trim, what is that little graphic supposed to be in the square on the right? A cowboy hat?

it looks like it could be a cowboy hat, or a smashed cone.

Zero rates. I’m not a fan of how the bumpers look after the body lift.

yeah I don’t like the gaps either. I have two pair of ez-inch’s on the shelf so I’ll probably try that.

I ran up to WFO and picked up a pair of 4 degree shims. Looks much better now.

@Fastereddie no I’m not trimming the u-bolts yet :D

AED53FAC-F40B-444C-AD7B-A9C81330D6AA.jpeg
 
it looks like it could be a cowboy hat, or a smashed cone.



yeah I don’t like the gaps either. I have two pair of ez-inch’s on the shelf so I’ll probably try that.

I ran up to WFO and picked up a pair of 4 degree shims. Looks much better now.

@Fastereddie no I’m not trimming the u-bolts yet :D

View attachment 362923
Haha, Angle looks bueno
 
Hopefully the O rate works out?

I guess if it was mine and the 0 didn’t work I would trim. Don’t think it would look bad, you do nice work. Sure wouldn’t want to cut up the tires out camping. Cause you know you will go more extreme than the mall!

Loving the truck and the overall look! Another one of my favourite builds here. Very cool!
 
Hopefully the O rate works out?

I guess if it was mine and the 0 didn’t work I would trim. Don’t think it would look bad, you do nice work. Sure wouldn’t want to cut up the tires out camping. Cause you know you will go more extreme than the mall!

Loving the truck and the overall look! Another one of my favourite builds here. Very cool!

Thank you and I'm going to try the zero rates later today. The truck is definitely getting used camping and I thought the wife would drive it. Now she wants to drive the crawler and told me to drive Sancho.....that should be interesting.

I was noticing the Cheyenne Super in the C10 has a longhorn steer head. Was thinking the cowboy/ranch theme is interesting. I guess I'm using your thread for random thoughts.

Honestly, I never really paid any attention to that emblem. Interesting tid bit.
 
Top Bottom