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1974 K10 Dirty Sancho

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Bent77

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Are we ready to talk about the tuning on this?
 

skunked

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Are we ready to talk about the tuning on this?

I’ve only ran about 15 gallons of gas through it however it’s had a couple dozen cold starts. It still likes to occasionally die about 5-10 seconds after I start it cold. Also, when it’s cold it studders as you accelerate under load from 1k-1500 rpms. It’s even coughed once or twice when I tried to power through it with more throttle. I think it wants more fuel when it’s cold.

Once it’s warmed up I feel like it runs pretty damn good. Of course there could be some more power in the tuning but it pulls pretty hard.
 

mrk5

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You could start with adding some cold start enrichment. Even tho it includes the word "start" it adjusts fueling the entire time the engine is cold.
 

Bent77

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Mess with any of the cold fuel settings?
 

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You could start with adding some cold start enrichment. Even tho it includes the word "start" it adjusts fueling the entire time the engine is cold.


Mess with any of the cold fuel settings?

I added 5% IIRC to the cold start and didn’t notice a difference. Overall it has improved since I started driving it however it still wants to die (or damn near) right after I fire it. Sounds like it’s running out of fuel so that’s why I added some at cold start. Also, the cam specs (230/236) are right between the profiles in the setup menu.
 

Bent77

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I added 5% IIRC to the cold start and didn’t notice a difference. Overall it has improved since I started driving it however it still wants to die (or damn near) right after I fire it. Sounds like it’s running out of fuel so that’s why I added some at cold start. Also, the cam specs (230/236) are right between the profiles in the setup menu.
I think my cam was on the fence too, and I went conservative
 

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I think my cam was on the fence too, and I went conservative

I started on the lower (stock) setting too. For whatever reason the lower setting had the lopey idle whereas the next setting (mild?) was really tame and mellow. I can only guess a timing adjustment was made by the ECU. I really don’t know, I need to spend some time and wrap my head around this.
 

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I've been driving the truck a lot and find myself looking for excuses to drive it throughout the day. Through those experiences I've compiled a new list of items that need attention, some of which have been addressed already.

To Do
1) Fuel Gauge doesn't work (reads full)- Need to double check the tank ground.
2) Filler neck- The 1.5" boat filler neck I installed a couple years ago didn't have a breather port so I installed one and it leaks when I fill. Secondly, the 1.5" diameter tubing bottle necks enough to stop the gas station pumps. I have a new 1.75" filler neck with a 5/8" breather port on order with additional 1.75" fuel hose. I"ll remove the bed bolts, prop the bed up so I can access the rubber fill hose and test the fuel sender ground while I'm in there.
3) Hood Hinges- The passenger side of the hood is high at the cab so I ordered new hinges and reused the old springs. New hinges helped however it's still too high on the passenger side, might need to open up the holes in the hinge for more adjust-ability at the fender. Also contemplating the WAM rod conversion with gas struts.
4) Belt Squeal or Accessory Squeak?- It's back again and only makes the noise when I rev the engine. I'm convinced it's the alternator which had some slight damage to the plastic fan therefore I ordered a new Delco alternator.
5) Header Leak- IIRC I used some poor quality header gaskets I had laying around so I was asking for this problem. #1 cylinder is leaking in the 11 o'clock position, new Fel Pro gaskets have been ordered.
6) Tuning- I've been driving the truck quite a bit and it's now at a point where I feel like most of the self learning is complete. Runs great with the exception of 750-1500 rpm acceleration when the engine is still in the cold loop. I've added 12% to the cold enrichment and haven't noticed much of a difference. I'll keep adding a couple points until it improves. Once it's warm it runs well and has no problem laying a one legger through third :rotfl: That poor ten bolt though.....
Completed
7) Front U-Bolts- Trimmed those for Eddie.
8) Gauges- Moved the autometer gauges over so they clear the shifter going into third under acceleration.
9) Diff Breathers- Added
10) Bellhousing Cover- Trimmed and reinstalled
 
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skunked

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The new alternator is installed and the belt whine is louder than before. With the truck running I can release pressure on the tensioner and it quiets. I can also remove the belt completely and it's quiet. Using a piece of hose to my ear I'm unable to pinpoint the exact location of the noise. The two idlers and tensioner are new and I swapped in the old ones with no change. The PS pump, water pump and alternator are new. Previously (couple months back), when it started making noise I replaced the belt with a gates and it fixed the problem until recently.

Looking at the belt last night I noticed the smooth side of the belt had linear wear or maybe stretch marks? Not sure if that's normal or not however I can't remember seeing that before.
full

full


Because I'm questioning everything I've done, here's the belt configuration diagram (top right w/o air pump and AC).
full



full


The only other idea I've pondered is paint on the crank & power steering pulleys.

Any other suggestions or ideas are welcomed.
 

Bent77

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Free and somewhat easy to scotch brite the pulleys. I’d start there

Also not a fan of the belt. But cannot think why that would look like that
 

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Free and somewhat easy to scotch brite the pulleys. I’d start there

Also not a fan of the belt. But cannot think why that would look like that

I hit the pump pulleys with a wire brush last night but it could probably use a little more love. The belt wear has me a little baffled too. The first belt started making noise almost immediately, well before I got a chance to drive it but it was a shitty no-name belt so I assumed that was the problem.
 

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Looking at the available belts through rockauto, I don't see any major differences either.

Gates K060919

Belt Material EPDM
Cord Material Polyester
OE Comparison Rating OE Performance
Outside Circumference 92.38 in.
Outside Circumference 2346 MM
Rib Quantity 6
Section K
Top Width .807 in.
Top Width 20 mm
Type Automotive V-Ribbed Belt (Standard)

DAYCO 5060918
Rib Quantity 6
Top Width (in) .82
Effective Length (in) 91.75
Effective Length (mm) 2330.45
Outside Circumference (in) 92.41
Outside Circumference (mm) 2347.22
Rib Profile W or V Profile (Running Change)
Material EPDM, Aramid Reinforced
Cross Section K-Section
Rib Depth Standard
Color Black
Standards SAE J1459, SAE J2432
Minimum Operating Temperature (C) -42.7
Maximum Operating Temperature (C) 100
Minimum Operating Temperature (F) -45
Maximum Operating Temperature (F) 212

ACDELCO 6K919
Top Width .807 IN
Top Width 20 mm
Color Black
Effective Length 91.85 IN
Effective Length 2333 MM
Outside Circumference 92.413 IN
Outside Circumference 2347 MM
Rib Quantity 6
 

skunked

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Try Belt Dressing?

Martijn

We talked about it last night, although I hate that stuff because of the mess it creates. Maybe I can spray the belt, let it absorb overnight and then re-install it.
 

mrk5

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We talked about it last night, although I hate that stuff because of the mess it creates. Maybe I can spray the belt, let it absorb overnight and then re-install it.
I've used Edelbrock Gasgacinch on belts and it doesn't make a mess. It does say on the can that it's a belt dressing.
 

skunked

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I've used Edelbrock Gasgacinch on belts and it doesn't make a mess. It does say on the can that it's a belt dressing.

I didn't realize that could be used and I have some on hand. Thanks!
 
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