CK5
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The next month I’ll be spending more time so you can expect more updates.
I received the stainless spacers for the front and rear shocks so I was able to install the bilsteins with the ORD braces in the rear.
Mounted the fuel filter and ran more 6an line for the feed and return. Both lines can be disconnected near the filter so the tank can be dropped without removing the bed or hacking a hole in the bed. Russell fuel line clamps will be here tomorrow.
Mounted the fuel filter and ran more 6an line for the feed and return. Both lines can be disconnected near the filter so the tank can be dropped without removing the bed or hacking a hole in the bed. Russell fuel line clamps will be here tomorrow.
During my valve spring installation I came to the realization the anti-rotators were not included in my cam kit like I thought they were. Comp Cams didn't provide any useful information with the valve springs that specifically addresses this part of the installation on a Gen 6 so I wasn't sure if the stock rotators should be kept or if I need to use a set of shims/anti-rotators. Of course I couldn't find my spring height micrometer to verify the spring height with/without the rotators so I ordered another one. I spoke with comp cam technical support earlier today and he thought the rotators should be eliminated however he also said I need to verify the 1.9" spring height requirement. Since I'm maximizing the lift you can run with a stock gen 6 I need to check clearances between the retainer and the guide/valve seal anyway.
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I received the valve spring height micrometer yesterday and confirmed the height was 2.18" without the spring rotator installed. The rotators are about .34 therefore the spring height would be right at the 1.9" target for the comp cams dual spring (PN 924-16) they sent with the kit. At this point I don't see any reason why I need to keep the rotators so I ordered a set of .30 valve spring locators from comp cams (PN4698-8). I should have those later today from summit.
The other item I wanted to double check was the retainer to valve seal clearance since I'm pushing the limit with the .547 lift. After a little muscle I quickly realized the valve seals that comp provided (PN 505-16) do not fit over the valve guides and if I force it over the inner valve spring ID is too small and won't fit over the valve seal.
Here you can see the seal out of shape around the guide.
Some quick research showed these seals are designed for .530" guides and mine measure out to .615" therefore the guides need to be cut down to accept the smaller ID (.530 seals). This kinda pissed me off because I could have taken care of all this work over the last couple months as I waited for parts. It's also a little frustrating because of the lack of information comp cams provides however I also understand that some of this wouldn't have been overlooked if I did a little more research independently. I've also noticed that some guys run beehive springs rather than the dual spring that comp recommends and they mention the ability to run the stock umbrella seals with those beehive springs. Most of those guys are running a smaller lift cam so that could be the reason why comp recommends the dual spring that I have.
Since I destroyed one of the valve seals and needed a new set I decided to research other seals available for my application. This lead me to Viton seals which are generally preferred over PTFE seals that comp provided. I also found some tooling that's available that allows a DIY approach to cutting the guides to accept the .530 ID seals. The tooling is about $85 however before I purchased the tools I called the local machine shop and they'll cut them down for $105 and he'll also double check for any interference concerns with the valve guide height and trim those as necessary. Needles to say, I'm not going to try and machine these guides myself when I can utilize a professional service for nearly the same cost. He also has the viton seals on the shelf so I'll buy those from him too. Head gaskets & new head bolts will be here Friday, heads are coming off today so I can drop them off for machining.
Gotta love the fk'n rabbit hole.....
Here you can see the seal out of shape around the guide.
Some quick research showed these seals are designed for .530" guides and mine measure out to .615" therefore the guides need to be cut down to accept the smaller ID (.530 seals). This kinda pissed me off because I could have taken care of all this work over the last couple months as I waited for parts. It's also a little frustrating because of the lack of information comp cams provides however I also understand that some of this wouldn't have been overlooked if I did a little more research independently. I've also noticed that some guys run beehive springs rather than the dual spring that comp recommends and they mention the ability to run the stock umbrella seals with those beehive springs. Most of those guys are running a smaller lift cam so that could be the reason why comp recommends the dual spring that I have.
Since I destroyed one of the valve seals and needed a new set I decided to research other seals available for my application. This lead me to Viton seals which are generally preferred over PTFE seals that comp provided. I also found some tooling that's available that allows a DIY approach to cutting the guides to accept the .530 ID seals. The tooling is about $85 however before I purchased the tools I called the local machine shop and they'll cut them down for $105 and he'll also double check for any interference concerns with the valve guide height and trim those as necessary. Needles to say, I'm not going to try and machine these guides myself when I can utilize a professional service for nearly the same cost. He also has the viton seals on the shelf so I'll buy those from him too. Head gaskets & new head bolts will be here Friday, heads are coming off today so I can drop them off for machining.
Gotta love the fk'n rabbit hole.....
I try to pitch in where I can.
Do you really need new head bolts? Have you had these heads off?
Martin
Martin
that’s something heavily debated however most manufacturers note them as single use. For $50 it’s not worth the headache so I bought a set.
Gen 6 big blocks have torque to yield head bolts. Felpro sells a kit with bolts for each side that is much less expensive to buy than getting the. From GM.
Yep, that’s the two kits I bought along with AC Delco head gaskets.
One thing to remember is the torque sequence on TTY bolts. You'll need a torque angle gauge or a digital torque wrench so you can get the final sequence done correctly.Way less cleaning too!!
I’m pretty sure I used the same TTY bolts on my 97 5.7 vortec. I haven’t been able to locate the torque spec for these ones however. Maybe it will be included with the bolts.
The sequence is usually with the bolts.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
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Started looking at the build thread from the start, just gonna fix a few things and drive it, skip to the last few pages. Yep that's a CK5'er. A couple fixes to holy hell batman! Nice work!
Heads were removed and stripped last light. I dropped them off at the machine shop this morning with some loose hardware (valve springs, retainer, keepers, valves and spring locator) so they can double check the guide height clearance. I also asked them to go ahead and resurface them since they’re off. Might have them back tomorrow, if not Monday.
