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CK5
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1975 K20 The War Wagon
- Thread starter Buckshot0351
- Start date
Old ass sagging springs 75’ K20 4x4 and an owner with a dream
Still trying to figure out how to drive this forum. Trying to upload pics but its saying they are to large.
Some pics. Cant get all of them to upload.
Looks like a great base to start from.
when you take more pictures use a lower mp, or resize them before you up load.
What length rear spring are you using ?
when you take more pictures use a lower mp, or resize them before you up load.
What length rear spring are you using ?
A solid base to start with!
Anyway, i used the Lugnuts 4x4 rear disc conversion with the disc/disc valve and a 1980 Corvette master cylinder. Also threw in some Yukons while i was at it. Has the Offroad Designs 4” shackle hangers, Bilsteins that might not have enough travel and new stock (maybe slightly heavier) springs in the back. Other than that i cleaned up and painted the frame. Bottom side of the bed is done. Just need to find some help lifting the bed back on. Then I’ll start on the front. I have some Offroad Designs parts and EastWest Off Road cross over and high steer with knuckles that is going up there. Still need to pull the drive train and have the 203 and 4 speed rebuilt. Which brings me to one of my questions; Is the part time conversion for the 203 a good idea or do i just need to spend the money on a 205 if i want a part time transfer case?
For the record, i in no way claim to know what im doing, claim to know anything or in any way an expert. This is my first time ripping a truck apart and putting it back together. No one else i know does this. Im just watching YouTube videos and trying to figure it out.
If you guys have any questions about how things worked out please feel free to ask. I suspect that the rear disc conversion will be a topic. Yes, the work to the limit of rolling in the driveway so far and hold against the clutch. The damn parking brake works somehow. Thank God. That was a pain. When using the corvette Master the brake line do go in the opposite end than the stock master. Im not sure if that now changed the order in which the brakes engage but they work in the driveway so far which is more than i expected.
The gas tanks are replaced. Had to reuse the original tank mounts. The replacements from amazon were incorrect. The tank solenoid isn’t made anymore so the replacement is kinda wonky and itself grounds to the frame FYI. Your going to have to figure out what you want to do about the fuel return from the pump. My return is Tee’d off so it goes back into both thanks. Hopefully. The switch for the tanks needs to be modified a little. Mine needed to be anyway. It works. Or will work once i have the solenoid mounted and grounded properly. I found this out using a light tester and got a little but of a buzz figuring things out.
Im trying to think of what else i can add for a fellow new person to this.
Dont use rust converter on bare metal. It won’t stick.
I guess thats it for now. Ill wait for the “Old and Grumpy’s” to chime in.
For the record, i in no way claim to know what im doing, claim to know anything or in any way an expert. This is my first time ripping a truck apart and putting it back together. No one else i know does this. Im just watching YouTube videos and trying to figure it out.
If you guys have any questions about how things worked out please feel free to ask. I suspect that the rear disc conversion will be a topic. Yes, the work to the limit of rolling in the driveway so far and hold against the clutch. The damn parking brake works somehow. Thank God. That was a pain. When using the corvette Master the brake line do go in the opposite end than the stock master. Im not sure if that now changed the order in which the brakes engage but they work in the driveway so far which is more than i expected.
The gas tanks are replaced. Had to reuse the original tank mounts. The replacements from amazon were incorrect. The tank solenoid isn’t made anymore so the replacement is kinda wonky and itself grounds to the frame FYI. Your going to have to figure out what you want to do about the fuel return from the pump. My return is Tee’d off so it goes back into both thanks. Hopefully. The switch for the tanks needs to be modified a little. Mine needed to be anyway. It works. Or will work once i have the solenoid mounted and grounded properly. I found this out using a light tester and got a little but of a buzz figuring things out.
Im trying to think of what else i can add for a fellow new person to this.
Dont use rust converter on bare metal. It won’t stick.
I guess thats it for now. Ill wait for the “Old and Grumpy’s” to chime in.
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I think they were 56’s. The longer of the stock options. And just a bit more than the stock lbs rating. I think i got them from Kansas City Spring but i can’t remember for sure what the name is. I remember it being from the midwest though. I would really like to run longer but this is my first one and didn’t want to get in to deep. +56” might be later in the future. I really like the idea of either pulling a trailer for camping or putting a big camper in the back so i stuck with stock-ish for now. If i knew what i was doing i would like the idea of long flimsy ones though. Then maybe throw a helper spring on for the camping/pulling? If thats how it works but i don’t know.
Ill try that pic trick right quick. Thx.
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Trying pics
Hopefully morevum
The rear discs, i had to clock them back a few times to get them right. Not knowing what im doing i wanted them high so they dont hit stuff on the trail. However thats not how it works. Bleeder needs to be up and if you want the Ebrake to work out then they have to be back all the way. AND BRAKE LINE FLARING! Practice on scrap line first!
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I thought those looked like 56" springs. Stock is good, I used a set of one ton springs on my k20 shackle flip. You have the 6" shackle that should have a good angle.
Im not sure if it makes much of a difference but i think i did the 4” flip from ORD. I dont know what i was thinking but i had thrown in the 6 degree shims to correct driveline angle. That was way to much so i swapped the 6degree shims out for 2 degree. Looks much better. When i started this project i wanted to end up with between 4 to 6 inches of lift. Now, balls deep into it im wishing i would have went closer to the 6”. I should end up with just over 4” which is still nice. For the front i have 4” Skyjacker springs with ORD front shackles which i think are a bit longer than stock.
I miss spoke and need to correct what i said so someone reading this doesn’t make a mistake building theirs:
I used the shackle flip with zero lift and then used the shackles that give 4” of lift. ORD products. I need to go back and check but im 99% sure thats what i did.
I used the shackle flip with zero lift and then used the shackles that give 4” of lift. ORD products. I need to go back and check but im 99% sure thats what i did.
Do you think 35’s will rub with a taller 4” of lift? I really don’t want to trim. The body is rot free. I like the idea of keeping the body panels stock, uncut. In another 20 years when these trucks are worth good money, i don’t want the body to be hacked up thus driving the value down.
Posting a morning pic
Are the shackles supposed to sit vertical or is there supposed to be an angle to them?
I just realized something. Someone could totally steal my Yukon axles! Unbolt them and they slide right out! Are there any tricks to preventing this? It would be faster and quieter than stealing a Cat.
I don't think I've ever heard of someone stealing axle shafts..... tack weld the bolt heads 
I did a rear shackle flip and I ended up with the 6 degree shims also.
I had a 5 inch lift and my 37's only rubbed in the front. I moved my front axle forward to help with that.
