CK5
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1977 Chevy C10 shortbed resurection/restomod/ratrod

I picked up new front brakes today. Rear brakes should be in tomorrow since I had to order drums.

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More progress with the truck today. Front bearings repacked and brakes assembled. Rear axle seals replaced and one side of the brakes assembled. One brake line wouldn't break lose from the wheel cylinder so it is soaking overnight.

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I managed to break the last brake line free with vise grips but leave one wrench flat intact to reinstall in the new wheel cylinder. Now to install the new master and bleed the system.
 
I pulled all of the plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder today. I hope to turn the motor over next weekend. All but one plug looked like it was fouled from burning oil too. Looks like I will need to plan for a drivetrain swap in the future. But I should be able to run it for a while with the existing motor if nothing major is broken.
 
I pulled all of the plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder today. I hope to turn the motor over next weekend. All but one plug looked like it was fouled from burning oil too. Looks like I will need to plan for a drivetrain swap in the future. But I should be able to run it for a while with the existing motor if nothing major is broken.
I have had good luck doing the same with seafoam. Haven't tried the marvel stuff yet.
 
I've heard of people using all sorts of stuff including transmission fluid. I think the key is to get everything well lubricated before turning it over. I need to pickup an oil pump driveshaft so I can circulate the oil as well.
 
ATF and acetone is the best rust buster,but we used Marvel Mystery Oil at the junkyard most often,on an engine we were trying to save for an antique that was rare..we had plenty of used ATF,but acetone is like 17 bucks a gallon,so we were unwilling to invest that much on what might turn out to be a junk engine,so we often just used ATF and maybe some gas to thin it out,or diesel fuel,on other engines that sat,and customers wanted to see if they would run before buying..

..(This was back in the '90's when a gallon of Marvel was under 10 bucks--not so today,its closer to 20 !)..

You can make a oil pump drive adapter from a large screwdriver and a piece of pipe or tubing the right size so you can spin the oil pump with an electric drill,or grind off the teeth on an old distributor's gear..

I would wait till you get it to run awhile ,then see if the plugs are oily--the rings may be stuck and it can take quite some time to free them up (if they free up period)...old chevy small blocks often have valve stem seals dissapear and that lets oil drip thru the guides when it sits ,and the next time it is started up the oil cakes onto the plugs..

We often had engines that we freed up smoke like a tire fire for as long as an hour or more,we had to keep topping off the oil--many stopped smoking eventually, and didn't need any internal work..others got worse,and started making scary rapping or ticking noises,those were sold as
rebuildable cores".
 
Made a trip to the local junkyard. Picked up a couple little parts. Fixed the broken turn/marker light and resealed the rear differential cover and refilled with fresh gear oil. Tomorrow I want to get the new master cylinder installed and bleed the brakes.

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I should change the gear oil in my pickup--its probably "original"..
I have only checked it once in a blue moon to ensure its not low,it doesn't leak so I tend to ignore it..got it in '03 and whatever was in there then is still in it..:blush:..
I also am curious to find out just what ratio the diffs are in the diesel pickup..

Your lucky there is a salvage yard near you with any square bodies,they are pretty scarce up here,and any you find are usually bare skeletons stripped of all removable parts and the trinkets you like to find most likely will be busted or junk if they are still on the truck,or were removed before it even ended up the the salvage yard..
People e-bay and craigslist a lot of those things instead of letting them go to the salvage yard..
 

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