Lowes had those for $4 each when I was looking for fittings. They just didn't carry a 3/8 x 5/16 that I wanted.
CK5
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1977 Chevy C10 shortbed resurection/restomod/ratrod
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
The Lowe's a 1/4 mile from my house used to have one of the largest selections of brass plumbing fittings,but they keep reducing inventory--anything that isn't a hot seller doesn't get re-ordered--also they don't carry any 5/16" compression unions that I like to use on transmission cooler lines--the person running the plumbing section says 5/16" is "automotive" and isn't used in household plumbing,so they dont carry anything in 5/16" like copper tubing and other fittings..
Home Depot has two stores ,both are about 6 miles away though,so I go there only if I have too..they may have more fittings than Lowe's..
Lowe's now carries some weird type of compression fittings that don't use two normal looking ferrules too,only ones in 3/8" and 1/2" and 5/8" for copper pipes is all they have now for the typical ones..
There are at least half a dozen well stocked old fashioned hardware stores in the next town over,but they are hit & miss as to whether you'll find what you need at any of them,and I have wasted an afternoon trotting from one to the other trying to find fittings,or enough metric nuts & bolts to assemble something..and their prices are butt rape..
It ticks me off having to drive around all day just to get $10 worth of hardware..only 2 stores have a wide selection of metric bolts and enough of them to let you finish the job..
I buy nuts & bolts at Tractor Supply by the pound,but they do not have much for metrics in stock,never the right length or pitch thread I need,or enough of them anyways..it's 9 miles to the nearest TS store..
I buy up every bucket of fittings and bolts,nuts,etc at the flea market I come across..most of the time my garage has more hardware than some stores do..but I have hardly anything metric..
Home Depot has two stores ,both are about 6 miles away though,so I go there only if I have too..they may have more fittings than Lowe's..
Lowe's now carries some weird type of compression fittings that don't use two normal looking ferrules too,only ones in 3/8" and 1/2" and 5/8" for copper pipes is all they have now for the typical ones..
There are at least half a dozen well stocked old fashioned hardware stores in the next town over,but they are hit & miss as to whether you'll find what you need at any of them,and I have wasted an afternoon trotting from one to the other trying to find fittings,or enough metric nuts & bolts to assemble something..and their prices are butt rape..
It ticks me off having to drive around all day just to get $10 worth of hardware..only 2 stores have a wide selection of metric bolts and enough of them to let you finish the job..
I buy nuts & bolts at Tractor Supply by the pound,but they do not have much for metrics in stock,never the right length or pitch thread I need,or enough of them anyways..it's 9 miles to the nearest TS store..
I buy up every bucket of fittings and bolts,nuts,etc at the flea market I come across..most of the time my garage has more hardware than some stores do..but I have hardly anything metric..
I may be interested. I have to see what I can find for the bumper.
The only thing the aftermarket set is missing is the sheetmetal piece to fill the gap between the bumper and the bed. But they have the correct holes to mount it.
I've made that piece before. Luckily I have lots of drop pieces of aluminum sheet.
PM me what you want for it, I can cap returns.
Let me know if you want the brackets. They just went on the shelf until I found a need for them.
Even with new sending units in new tanks, I have the bouncing fuel gauge issue. Tonight I pulled the grounds, cleaned the frame mounting points, and reinstalled with new star washers.
The problem still persists... it even moves when I turn on the headlights. I'm going to swap in a spare gauge cluster this weekend and see if there is a change.
The problem still persists... it even moves when I turn on the headlights. I'm going to swap in a spare gauge cluster this weekend and see if there is a change.
Maybe it's some of the other grounds; battery to frame and cab to frame?
That is another possibility that I will be chasing down as well. I do know there is an issue with the printed circuit where I cannot get the right turn signal bulb to work so I will be pulling the gauge cluster anyway to fix that. I have a known good cluster from the 3/4 ton 1977 GMC that was turned into a trailer.
I like this build.
The anti-build...
Thursday, my old boss at work asked if I wanted a motor from his boat, 1997 Vortec with 300 hours but the block cracked because water didn't get fully drained over the winter.
Since I drove the truck into work, I wasn't going to say no... now to find another block.
Since I drove the truck into work, I wasn't going to say no... now to find another block.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Score on the heads if nothing else.
Today I picked up an older fiberglass canopy that matches the truck perfectly.
The wife caught me smiling driving this one today, guess is hard not to smile when they are running well.
I'm wondering if the loss of power going up hills could be the egr... I have an aluminum intake laying around. I think I'll grab some gaskets tomorrow and get it installed.
I also got the trim reinstalled on the driver's door panel. Tomorrow I will replace the wing window and rival the panel.
I also got the trim reinstalled on the driver's door panel. Tomorrow I will replace the wing window and rival the panel.
Tuesday I worked from home and had a little extra time to pull the intake manifold and valve covers. I also plan to replace the engine wiring harness since this one was spliced at some point.
Tonight I had a little more time after work and started cleaning up the aluminium valve covers and intake manifold I bought who knows how long ago.
Tomorrow night I should be able to make some progress on reassembly.
Tonight I had a little more time after work and started cleaning up the aluminium valve covers and intake manifold I bought who knows how long ago.
Tomorrow night I should be able to make some progress on reassembly.
wasted wages
1 ton status
Ole' motor looks fairly clean on the inside.. 
I don't know about you, but I ditch the end seals of the intake gasket set and use a good thick bead of black silicone...put some on the intake, and about a 1/4 - 3/8 thick bead on the block...I also spray the paper gaskets with high tack or copper coat on both sides before setting them into place.....line up all the bolt holes and let it set for about 5 minutes and set the intake straight down and bolt 'er up ! YMMV...
hope it goes smooth for ya' and takes care of the issue...motors always just seem to run better with a freshing up of intake gaskets for some reason... maybe it's just me...
I don't know about you, but I ditch the end seals of the intake gasket set and use a good thick bead of black silicone...put some on the intake, and about a 1/4 - 3/8 thick bead on the block...I also spray the paper gaskets with high tack or copper coat on both sides before setting them into place.....line up all the bolt holes and let it set for about 5 minutes and set the intake straight down and bolt 'er up ! YMMV...
hope it goes smooth for ya' and takes care of the issue...motors always just seem to run better with a freshing up of intake gaskets for some reason... maybe it's just me...
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