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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

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Ok guys I need some math help...

I'm looking at shackle angles and I would like to run a 45 degree angle. I'm using this calculator here. http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp

Here is my inputs.
Side C. 4.5 for shackle length
Side B 45.

With that I get 3 inches, so I would subtract 3 from 47(spring length). Now I measure out 44 inches from the center of the bushing to the center of the other bushing and those are my marks?
 
I told you what bits (drills) to use - cobalt bits. Not Kobalt brand, but cobalt meatal. Get the DeWalt brand from Lowes or wherever. I use the the Ace brand cutting oil that Dremu mentioned. Just put some oil on the very tip of the bit. Drill a 1/8" hole, then enlarge it with a 1/4" drill, then 3/8", 7/16" and finally 1/2". It will still be a pain and take a while and it will still kill your arm, but it is doable. What kind of drill motor are you using? Make sure it's a variable speed that can turn really slow. Like Dremu said, if you don't see metal shavings coming out around the bit, you need to slow down. Other wise you're just polishing the frame and dulling your bits.

If you get a set of the drills I told you about, you won't break any and they won't go dull for a long time. I've drilled probably 20 holes in my frame for different stuff with the same bits and I've never had to resharpen them. They're gold looking. But don't get the "titanium" ones. They suck. Just get the DeWalt brand cobalt bits. :laugh:
 
I was using a ace cobalt bit for heavy metal. I think I was going to fast and.need to slow it way down. Thanks for the tips.
 
Found out the proper technique, I needed to slow it down and apply more pressure. Now it's cutting through like butter.

Got the passenger side all done now just need to move onto the rears.

Not much of a picture but I wanted to show a buddy how smooth the frame is now.
1541.jpg
 
I always do an 1/8 inch pilot, then use a cobalt step bit with the long steps. Don't remember where I bought mine. Works nice and you don't have to keep changing bits. Have used them on up to 1/4 material.
 
I would like to thank all of you for the tips on drilling.



Here is a before and after
frameholes.jpg






1541.jpg
 
Thank you very much, the comments are very much appreciated.

I have a receiver hitch off the rear of the parts suburban I had. What do you guys think about trying to mount it on the front? under the bumper or do a hidden hitch setup like this for the front plate.

hidden_hitch2.jpg
 
Babaganoosh said:
Thank you very much, the comments are very much appreciated.

I have a receiver hitch off the rear of the parts suburban I had. What do you guys think about trying to mount it on the front? under the bumper or do a hidden hitch setup like this for the front plate.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. Receivers are very handy things, not just for towing. Cargo carriers, bike racks, recovery points, place to stick the Hi-Lift, mount a bender or a vice, the list goes on. I'm still bummed that I couldn't do one up front & center cuz my winch is in the way. But definitely, both ends, way cool.

-- A
 
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It was basic. Made a platE for each frame rail. Inside. Cut a notch for the square on the hitch. Used the 2 front bolts for the front hanger and the bumper bracket bolts to mount the brackets. Welded the hitch to them. I could slide it out the front if I needed too.

It is nice and solid. Hit a tree at 20mph square on the winch. Drove into it to save front end. Bent the winch mount and the 2 inch square tubing it was welded to. But the hitch between the rails was unscathed. And saved the front sheet metal.
 
I think I will see what I can do, I don't have any fabrication experiences so depending on the modifications I might be able to pull this off.
 
That would be awesome, I would love to see the Jimmy and treat you to your choice of beverage or food.
 
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