CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Yes or use the factory line that came with out trucks and adapt it to the trans.

Which ever is easier.
 
IMO AN is easiest. Flexible lines. Ability to make any adapters that you need. You can route them cleaner too.
 
I used LS lines and adapted to the radiator. I forget the exact sizes but I ended up having to cut the radiator side ends off the lines and remake the last foot or so to make them lay how I wanted.

I used 3/8" compression unions on the cut side and reflared the other end to fit the radiator.

The factory truck lines are smaller than the LS lines so I was worried about fluid starvation etc. That's why I decided to go with LS lines.

I'm sure there is a more elegant way to do it but this worked for me.
 
I would have gone braid if I had a choice... $$.

The space between the block and collector is REALLY tight though
 
At the point I was building drag cars, AN was my choice. Braided line all the way back to the trans, with a splice and a 6-8" pigtail on the trans.
In the event you need to pull anything, break the line at the splice and cap it, where it is easy to reach and get wrenches on. Fantastically easier to deal with in all manner than hard line, and simpler to work on.
 
Think I might try to push lock again just extend it and get it away from the exhaust.

Cheapest and might work or it bites me in the butt. Or I wait until the 5th and just do braided hose.

I want to drive my truck.:rolleyes:
 
I've never dimmed a set of gauges in my life. Every vehicle, all the time, all the way up. With LED gauges you need a dimming module from autometer, I'm not worried about it.
 
8d484b742f3909fd6bd5fdec65dbe841.jpg
 
Keep in mind that even steel braided lines have a rubber or tephlon component in them that can melt.

If your exhaust is too close to the lines, that needs to be fixed first.

You can look into slip on heat shielding and sleeves as well as a heat shield on the exhaust there too.

There is nothing wrong with the basic parker pushlok hose for a transmission cooler line.
 
Keep in mind that even steel braided lines have a rubber or tephlon component in them that can melt.

If your exhaust is too close to the lines, that needs to be fixed first.

You can look into slip on heat shielding and sleeves as well as a heat shield on the exhaust there too.

There is nothing wrong with the basic parker pushlok hose for a transmission cooler line.

It's the actual headers near the collector that kick in towards the frame and gets close. The lines do have dei sleeves on them.

I'm confident that new lines a tad longer will get them out of harms way
 
I either will replace the push lock hose or poney up for steel braided lines. Depends if I will make it to the offroad expo.
 
Went to the offroad show today, my fav vendor at the show didn't have the correct size hose, I'll just wait and do steel braided lines after the 5th.


Called my Dad and asked him how he was doing, said he was looking for some keys to go for a cruise. :haha:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom