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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
Babaganoosh said:
Eric, what did you do for a top mount?
Click to expand...

On the cans or the shocks?

The shocks I just built some hoops and welded them onto the frame, then I broke the frame so I welded them on again with more bracing, then I broke the frame again. :whistle:

Babaganoosh said:
Maybe you got more travel in your springs? Eric, how did you go about finding that 10 inches?
Click to expand...

Subtraction:D:D You only had a about a 10" difference in the two sides from full stuff to full droop, which does seem a bit low to me.
 
blazinzuk said:
On the cans or the shocks?

The shocks I just built some hoops and welded them onto the frame, then I broke the frame so I welded them on again with more bracing, then I broke the frame again. :whistle:



Subtraction:D:D You only had a about a 10" difference in the two sides from full stuff to full droop, which does seem a bit low to me.
Click to expand...

I do have a bit long of a shackle its a 6.25 inch. I assume that would affect the ammount.
 
You could go with a slightly more complicated steering shaft (with a pillow block and extra u-joints) and bend it so that it runs over the framerail instead of blocking your shock....

More money, but it would solve the current dilemma.


-G
 
mrk5 said:
Why are you running a shackle that long?
Click to expand...

I wanted a 45 degree angle and didn't want the springs to hit the frame.

Greg72 said:
You could go with a slightly more complicated steering shaft (with a pillow block and extra u-joints) and bend it so that it runs over the framerail instead of blocking your shock....

More money, but it would solve the current dilemma.


-G
Click to expand...

This is a option, I'm trying to avoid it if possible.
 
Think I found a solution to re mount the shocks and be able to use tall hoops.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-Tower_p_1398.html

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/779/BTF-Lower-Coil-Over-Bracket-System.aspx

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=190

I don't see why these link towers wouldn't work for shock mounts.:dunno:

As for the bumps, I don't have a clue yet. :doah:

These are stolen from folkenheath build thread.

front+r.jpg


ExmemberR.jpg


Just havn't came up with a idea that keeps the ORD cross member. :doah:
 
Ok, I think I figured it out, I'll have to cut the braces off the bottom of the ord cross member, weld a plate that will go up the side of the frame.

A cross of ORD's and heath's

bump_zpsbf662286.jpg


bump2_zpsa8b76333.jpg


Only problem is it can't be welded to the frame because I want it fully removable if I have to reseal the oil pan. I think with 3 bolts on the bottom and 2 along the side above the bump can will do?
 
Bolt the cross member in where it goes. With all of the bolts in. Call it done. Hang the bump cans on the side of the frame with gussets up the sides.

You can virtual build until you are insane. But then nothing gets done.

Have you enrolled in the welding class yet?
 
Babaganoosh said:
I wanted a 45 degree angle and didn't want the springs to hit the frame.
Click to expand...
I like to keep the springs as tight to the frame as possible without hitting so as to not adversly affect caster. Maybe it's not a big deal as I've never tried anything different. :dunno:
 
mrk5 said:
I like to keep the springs as tight to the frame as possible without hitting so as to not adversly affect caster. Maybe it's not a big deal as I've never tried anything different. :dunno:
Click to expand...

I figured with a lift and stuff the caster is going to be shot anyway and I can always shim it to get the 4-6 Degrees needed.

ktmoutfront said:
Bolt the cross member in where it goes. With all of the bolts in. Call it done. Hang the bump cans on the side of the frame with gussets up the sides.

You can virtual build until you are insane. But then nothing gets done.

Have you enrolled in the welding class yet?
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you correctly, leave the cross member alone and just build gussets on the side of the frame to hang the cans lower to hit the landing?
 
Get out and build man.

If I run into a problem I can't quite get my head around I just start building.

The answer becomes obvious very quickly
 
How are you dealing with the fuel and brake lines that run inside the frame; when it comes to welding?
 
For the fuel lines I ripped them all out. The brake lines I need to replace anyway so I haven't cared.
 
The link doesn't work. 12" can will work. Plate the frame with perimeter and rosette welds. Weld cans to the plate. Then add the gussets. Will be fine.
 
ktmoutfront said:
The link doesn't work. 12" can will work. Plate the frame with perimeter and rosette welds. Weld cans to the plate. Then add the gussets. Will be fine.
Click to expand...

Fixed the links, was on my phone.

By rosette weld do you mean like this?
DSC06778.jpg


The plate with the holes cut out and welded around for more surface weld?
 
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