CK5
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I'm all about function over form, just look at the 2 different color doors I ran for years. I was hoping to run the shock in between the C of the axle and the leafs on top of the tube.

Anybody have any pictures using the top of the springs for bump plates and shock mounts? I think it might be to busy looking and not enough room.

Wade, I have no doubt on my mind you know what you are talking about on any subject you speak about. :bow:
 
dis

So with your travel it appears you don't need a shock that is as long as the ones you have, It looks like you have about 10" of differentiation between the 2 sides ( give or take) So with 14" travel shocks I would I would set em so that you are giving yourself about an inch of shock shaft showing on compression and set them just like that being that you will have plenty of shock the other direction.

Where are you going mount the lowers. My shock towers are tall but my shocks are mounted on top of the axle tube. Which I like cause they are completely out of the way. On top of the spring plate is even better. I have broken stuff a couple of times and put dents in my shocks. If they are on top of the plates less stuff for them to hit in the event of a break.

Would this mean I wouldn't need limiting straps? because in theory the shock will never full compress or extend?
 
Would this mean I wouldn't need limiting straps? because in theory the shock will never full compress or extend?



You will prolly be good I think... BUT...... Remember, if you get that thing air born... that axle is going to want to stay on the ground, while the chassis moves up... Its heavy and will pull down more than it will just hanging in the driveway..

Not saying it will go that much farther etc.. but just a thought.
 
Would this mean I wouldn't need limiting straps? because in theory the shock will never full compress or extend?

Not nearly as important as having them on a linked truck but I have decided that limit straps are a part of a good suspension design.

Mainly because if you break you can over extend things and break more stuff.

For your suspension to function well you don't really need them on leafs. Unless you are overextended something else.

My shocks are mounted right where you are wanting to mount yours. I have 56s in front and have my bump landing pads on top of the spring plate

IMG_20130318_012533_zpsa42494d1.jpg


You need to be very careful about whats going to hit and whats not and leave as much room as possible. Those shocks have been through both sides of leaf springs breaking centering pins and being flexed in ways no spring should be, in addition to have the steering be forced to places it shouldn't be either.

If I were to put them on top of the spring plate I would off set them towards the wheel, not straight off the spring plate. Not only will it look cool but will add clearance to the frame.

When you are dealing with leafs you have to assume they are going to be pushed side to side somewhat if you get all hung up off road.

Like Wade suggested off the spring plate would be a great place to mount em
 
Would this mean I wouldn't need limiting straps? because in theory the shock will never full compress or extend?

Something fishy about this....:confused: :confused: I spent lots of time with my setup to find max travel, same shock length, and I use 13+ inches of travel....:whistle:
 
Something fishy about this....:confused: :confused: I spent lots of time with my setup to find max travel, same shock length, and I use 13+ inches of travel....:whistle:

Maybe you got more travel in your springs? Eric, how did you go about finding that 10 inches?

I found this today picture.

IMG_0737_zps7d0faa16.jpg


Is this what you were thinking Wade? or more off a offset for the shock mount to leave room for the bump to hit?
 
My shocks are mounted right where you are wanting to mount yours. I have 56s in front and have my bump landing pads on top of the spring plate

IMG_20130318_012533_zpsa42494d1.jpg
Is that plate for the bump stop adjustable? As in you can thread it up and down?


Maybe you got more travel in your springs? Eric, how did you go about finding that 10 inches?
IIRC, I only used about 8-10" of travel with the 52's I had up front. I did have them bumpstop limited. I remember being surprised it was not more.
 
Here is a better picture.

1006or_12_1996_ford_ranger_supercab_2wdspring_plates_zpsb80cd20f.jpg


The more I look at this setup the more I'm starting to like it...Now to come up with some kind of bump stop landing now. :doah:
 
I can't seem to find a happy medium for these shocks. :doah:

Putting the shock on top of the leaf spring plate makes it hit smack dab right into the steering shaft. I could angle the shock out to the tire but that would just look weird I think.

IMG_20130318_155324_zps19235bd0.jpg


IMG_20130318_155337_zpsf78037e2.jpg


I like the hoop height on this but again that damn steering shaft. :doah:

Now for the bumps I thought of going from the top of the frame and going down the rail.... I have a 3 inch bump.

IMG_20130318_154514_zps8da779fd.jpg


IMG_20130318_154526_zpsefa652a0.jpg


Looks like I'm going to have to start from the bottom of the frame but it runs into the ORD cross member.

IMG_20130318_154557_zps962eb772.jpg
 
You keep talking about form over function. Who cares if it doesn't look super cool guy prerunner with massive hoops and stuff as long as it works fantastic.

What if you use the spring plates as your bump plate and run some angled shock tabs off the side. Yhat seems like a good happy medium between the two setups?
 
I'm all about function as previously stated, but I want it to look a certain way if possible. The picture above is using the spring plate as a bump lading pad, the suspension is completely max bump.

What are you thinking about angled shock tabs?
 
If the leafs are at full bump, the bumps need to be fully compressed when installed. Mount the shocks on the tube. If you need to make tall tabs, so be it.

The bump should also be installed into re cans all the way. O move the can down. Turn your brace over and use it on the bottom of the frame.
 
What would you do about the brace running into the ord cross member? I would like to make it removable if possible for future repairs needed on the engine.

Both mounting clamps on the cans were clamping down on the bump, does it still bee up higher?

The reason I want the hoops as high as possible is just in case IT ever get linked I want to try and minimize possible work.
 
If I was to make the shock come off the axle tube how tall is to tall for a shock tab or does it really matter as long as it's braced?
 

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