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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
You won't get it if they hit either. Then you start the risk of broke parts. Their is always some limations to everthing. More lift more clearance.
 
Babaganoosh said:
Chris from ord said the springs have 5 1/2 up and down so "ride height is middle"

Do you think I will have trouble with the cross over arm pitman arm hitting the leafs?
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I'm wondering if you have more clearance than you realize. I agree that your theory is sound but for true accuracy you would really need to fully assemble the springs and set the truck at actual ride height and verify your numbers are right. I know that may be impossible at the stage you're in with your build.

As mentioned you could set it up as best as possible and use bumps and straps to dial in.

I will look at mine today and see if steering arm could hit the springs on a hard turn full compression. I hadn't looked at that yet being more concerned with tie rod clearance.

Are you going to run high steer? Axle moved forward?
 
Looking at mine the only way hit will hit is if you negatively arch your spring. The tie rod end is about and 1 3/4" above the center line of the spring bolts.
image.jpg

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I think he needs to just build the truck. Then worry about the small afterwards.
The tire might even take out the fender before the spring hits the tie rod.
And I thought this was a MALL CRAWLER anyways.
 
Teck said:
I think he needs to just build the truck. Then worry about the small afterwards.
The tire might even take out the fender before the spring hits the tie rod.
And I thought this was a MALL CRAWLER anyways.
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I agree. Quit worrying Ben. If you break $hit. They make more parts everyday :whistle:
 
mrk5 said:
I'm wondering if you have more clearance than you realize. I agree that your theory is sound but for true accuracy you would really need to fully assemble the springs and set the truck at actual ride height and verify your numbers are right. I know that may be impossible at the stage you're in with your build.

As mentioned you could set it up as best as possible and use bumps and straps to dial in.

I will look at mine today and see if steering arm could hit the springs on a hard turn full compression. I hadn't looked at that yet being more concerned with tie rod clearance.

Are you going to run high steer? Axle moved forward?
Click to expand...

Thank you I would appreciate it a ton!

To proper set the bumps in the cans they need to be completely flush with the built in ring. If I was to move them down then I might risk damage of $350 dollar bumps. Just conventional cross over with the tie rod in the factory location.

Teck said:
Looking at mine the only way hit will hit is if you negatively arch your spring. The tie rod end is about and 1 3/4" above the center line of the spring bolts.
View attachment 144991
Click to expand...

The springs will go negative about 2 inches to achieve the 11 inch travel. ORD said this is no problem. Unless I'm hauling @$$ or "flexed" out it won't touch. Little lost on the picture, would you be able to take it from a little more distance to further explain your meaning?

Deuling said:
Dammit just land with your tires straight lol
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I plan on doing some trails with this truck so it has the potential of being turned and stuffed up.

Teck said:
I think he needs to just build the truck. Then worry about the small afterwards.
The tire might even take out the fender before the spring hits the tie rod.
And I thought this was a MALL CRAWLER anyways.
Click to expand...
I figured this was a big thing, I wouldn't want to be on a trail and have my springs hit the pitman arm.

The mall crawler is a joke, I can't tell you how many people say I don't need half the stuff I have and it's not needed. If you build it they will come. :pimp:

Deuling said:
I agree. Quit worrying Ben. If you break $hit. They make more parts everyday :whistle:
Click to expand...

If I quit worrying, this would bust going down the road! This is a big project, something I want to take the time and have it dialed in. I want it to be completely safe and have the confidence I could have family members drive it down the road.
 
Sorry the pic turned sideway. I used the yellow straight edge to show the line for the spring bolts then measured down to that to get the 1 3/4" from a flat line spring. Hope that helps.
 
How much lift do you have and what kind of drop putman arm do you have?

I think I might be ok with the 2wd pitman arm, but what is acceptable angle for the drag link? I would assume you want it as straight as possible before the bent up to the pitman arm? What happens if it is at a angle?

Guess I need to read about pitman arms now.
 
9"of lift. Not sure how much drop it has, probably 3", I have had it for years.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana44crossover.htm
The kit has a drop pitman arm in it. They offer a 1.5" and 3.5". They will bend the bar for your lift so it will fit correct.

You need to just call ORD and get all the parts, then you won't be guess if it will work.

Its much easier to figure out how it will work with the parts then without.:doah:
 
Yes I agree, I think I might be making a call to ORD Monday. Like I previously stated I was trying not to buy parts until May 1st, but it looks like I have to or just wait a month and do other stuff.
 
Yes It would and most likely be driving. :doah: I'm obligated to go to my two friends wedding and bachelor party we have been planning for 4 years. I'm a groomsmen and want to show my respect and friendship to my friends and be apart of their day.
 
Okay, I can't turn the tires with the suspension compressed because I don't have my ram installed yet and pump in this truck is on its last leg. But this should give you a good idea.

My shock has 7" of exposed shaft at ride height. In the picture below there is about 3" of shaft still exposed so 1.5" short of full up-travel.

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The up-travel runs out before the steering arm is going to hit the springs.

Based on what you've said, you should save your bumpstops for last. After you've installed the engine, bumper, and winch. You're going to want the front fully loaded.

I'll tell you as I'm finally getting my front shocks installed, for me it's about the most difficult fabrication project on the truck. I started with a plan and the end product is not what I was aiming for. I mean it works and everything is as it should be, but the overall setup is not what I originally envisioned. I end up designing as I went.
 
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