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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

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I thought about that but I don't have the room in the garage. The garage door has to open and close, it's about 5 inches below that.

What I'm thinking about doing is putting jack stands under the cab on the pinch welds then lowering the bed and frame down the the ground as low as possible.

Also I'll be able to roll the frame out this way and be able to paint it. :thumb:
 
Is tractor paint different then usual paint? Is it stronger?

No idea why I can't find any in Arizona but maybe that's the paint to use on the frame, axles, wheel wells, and core support.
 
Curious to hear the answers to that. I will bet that most will say that some kind of implement paint will be stronger that krylon, but I bet most will say that if it's catalyzed it will be better than anything that's not catalyzed.
 
Well think about it. Tractors often stay outside in the elements (rain, sun, wind, snow) for years without getting repainted. When's the last time you saw a tractor rust away? I mean besides the exhaust stack.
 
tractor paint is just an air-dried enamel with a name given to it that makes it sound tough.. same advertising theory as "hammerite, etc"

some of the better ones are a better resin base than off the shelf rusto, but it is still just an air-dried enamel and no miracle product..
 
Makes sense, like what was previously stated don't believe everything you read. Thanks for the reply.
 
Every product claims to be a miracle cure. BULL****! its all advertising. The secret is in catalyzed paints and PREP PREP PREP PREP.

Just ask Ryoken, he'll tell you. :waytogo:
 
Just because you guys seem to be busting my chops about this I think in 3.5 weeks I should have the 4 link at my door step. :thumb: Looks like I will have to wait the longest for the shocks to be delivered sense they are made to order.
 
Not truck related.

Read it back words. Maks yo loock at hcae word is more detaled.

Hard to miss spell with auto correct on.
 
More then half my posting around this time is done on my laptop, during the day it's off my phone.
 
Yes onto the front diff and possibly the rear hanger as well if I don't want to bolt it in.

I think I would just pay someone to weld those anyway. I don't trust myself and I want it done faster then I can learn with it. I don't want these to fail and kill a buss full of nuns. :eek1:
 
I say buy the welder. What if you decide that the 4 link isn't the way to go? You'll still have a welder you can use.
 
I don't know what else I could do besides the 4 link to make it better. Maybe go back to a IFS front end with long travel and a front diff out of a newer Silverado? :doah::haha:

I'm going to call on that welder tomorrow Wade, think it will do?
 
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