The links are beef.
Chris, would that longer tube be the pitman arm tube and the shorter the cross over?
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
The links are beef.
Chris, would that longer tube be the pitman arm tube and the shorter the cross over?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I think you are thinking panhard and drag link.
I was thinking pan hard bar, and cross over tube between the hoops. Was having a conversation and posting from my phone.
x2.
No drag link in the kit, it must be the pan hard and the shock hoop cross over bar.
Chris, when setting bump and droop heights should I fully compress the shock or leave some shaft showing? What about for droop the same when the limited straps are fully extended?
Chris, when setting bump and droop heights should I fully compress the shock or leave some shaft showing? What about for droop the same when the limited straps are fully extended?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Gotcha. Excited for you! Is this bringing back any of the excitement for you?
little bit doesn't help I do this everyday so to speak.
Think i'll wait until the frame brackets come to really start setting everything up.
Think i'll wait until the frame brackets come to really start setting everything up.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Deal.
Trying to figure out how to work around not having the link attached but I think the safest bet is having them cut to length and attached to the axle and frame.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Probably.
The smaller tubing is for the panhard, the 1-3/4"-.120" is to tie the two shock hoops together.
For bump travel, it's ok to set full bump at full compression of the shock. Coilovers are built much tougher than most shocks and bottoming on them isn't a big deal.
For droop, I'd set the limit straps 1/4-1/2" before the shocks are fully extended.
Sounds great, I thought my memory said they were built different but wanted a confirmation.
How tight should the brackets fit on the axle? On the passenger side it sits flat on the u bolt plate but sticks around a 1/4 off the C. The driver side fits a bit better but has the same issue.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Just going out on a limb and saying probably no more than 1/8" gap.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I think you will just have to grind to fit. I remember someone saying that while they were very close, they needed some amount of messaging.
The u bolt wouldn't be able to hold it then, It can't go that far over without it crooked.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
It looks like you only need to slide it over about an eighth inch. If it was me, I would try hogging the u bolt holes out a little bit, and clearancing the u bolt slot on the bottom of the diff. Just me.
Looks like scientifically planned welding gap to me... Ive filled bigger 
Hmmm, curious with what Chris has to say.
wage92
1/2 ton status
could it be possible your axle housing has been pulled out from the differential some? 
