right.. you have to determine what your capable of.. if your willing to invest in the equipment and primer/paint materials, you bring the parts thru trim like that door.. that's easy.. anyone can prime, sand and trim.. I can explain that to a monkey...
than let the bodyshop do the final overall shoot.. but if you aren't willing to do the stripping, sanding, priming, trimming and putting panels back on.. it limits what quality the job will be in the end...
that's the right way..
is something else acceptable to many? sure.. no doubt.. as would be noted by how 75% of people go about getting a vehicle refinishing... 95% when it comes to an offroad rig.. heck, your lucky if 1/2 them even use a spray gun...
you could just give it to a bodyshop, they'll sand it, prime it and paint it.. will the jambs be stripped, primed thru paint THE best way? no.. but these are compromises people make...
since your not driving it every day, if you had time to burn waiting on something else, like me with parts money for my K5? I have lot's of labor hr's to burn.. easy for me to do projects like stripping fenders, etc..
people say "a quality paint job".. but they aren't willing to have a bodyshop disassemble the vehicle and do it properly.. that's why taking an initiative like the chief did and doing the initial work can be vital... the majority of people don't have any wearwithall for that and just farm paint work to bodyshops.. but fully assembled, mismatched painted parts, it's only gonna be sooo good on the quality level....
"mechanic type" guys usually think that's fine.. I'm a body guy at heart.. I don't want my jambs having 3 layers and 29 mils of paint on em..
as Martin pointed out, ya figure out a way to do it...
Finaly length of the pan hard is about 5/8th's shorter and half a degree off the drag link. 
Should be perfect and no bump steer. 
