In 2 posts you went from 2.5 to 1.5 drop. Is that needed to clear the frame? Or is there something I'm not seeing?
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
I thought it was a 2.5 but I looked on ORD's website and it was 1.5
It is needed to clear the frame.
Also I think I might not be getting full steering because of the ford arm length is different then the chevy arm?
It is needed to clear the frame.
Also I think I might not be getting full steering because of the ford arm length is different then the chevy arm?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm still just not entirely clear what the problem/problems are.
I want that magic number of 40/60 for bump and droop travels.
With my pitman arm combination, the heim is mounted on the bottom of the arm. The tierod hits the nut only allowing a 33/67 travel numbers. If I was to get a flatter arm or move the heim on top of the arm I could get the 40/60 travel numbers.
I personally would rather have the higher number bump travel so It's not knocking the air bumps all the time. It is a trade off going either way and it's just how much work and money I want or have. We are debating combinations to get the higher bump travel.
I have a really goofy setup, unfortunately It's looking like a lot of trial and error. This is why everyone says cycle the suspension a 100 times.
With my pitman arm combination, the heim is mounted on the bottom of the arm. The tierod hits the nut only allowing a 33/67 travel numbers. If I was to get a flatter arm or move the heim on top of the arm I could get the 40/60 travel numbers.
I personally would rather have the higher number bump travel so It's not knocking the air bumps all the time. It is a trade off going either way and it's just how much work and money I want or have. We are debating combinations to get the higher bump travel.
I have a really goofy setup, unfortunately It's looking like a lot of trial and error. This is why everyone says cycle the suspension a 100 times.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I see. Crazy. Then you are probably on the right track with moving it to the top, and raising the panhard a little.
Glad I was able to help you understand this crazy concept. I have been researching it for a few hours tonight, I need to get to bed but I'm wide awake.
Is it to late to bolt in the 2wd stuff?
Is it to late to bolt in the 2wd stuff?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh you. Ifns i was you i would have bought a good 4x4 a long time ago! But i guess thats less adventure.
No way I could have let this truck go I have been building it for 10 years in my head. I have wanted a gen3 small block in it sense 2003 when the swap first took off. I wanted the 4 link when ORD first put spy photos out and everyone told me I was nuts for wanting it for what I have planned for this truck.
I could fix the angle by moving the pan hard up on the frame. I got 2 inches of wiggle room on it, I think in the long run it would be worth it for exchange of some work.
I think Greg did the same for the exact reason. I will have to see how he did his.
Hopefully Greg doesn't mind me sharing some of his pics. My build isn't up to par with his but I like what he did here.
But doing this would put the heim's of the drag link at even further of a angle on the passenger side... Which could be fixed by a bent drag link.... Ahhhh decisions decisions, these linked builds are not cheap.
You are on the right track.
I built that stupid frame-side PHB mount ELEVEN times trying to resolve the myriad issues with binding, link length, parallelism, and frame clearance.
The heim bind on the PS is really hard to prevent in a suspension with a lot of droop. No matter how flat things start out at ride height, the angles get steep with travel. Most guys need a bend in the PHB... Ultimately I did it too.
It's nice to keep the PHB up as high as possible since it establishes your roll center height (and higher is better). I went as high as I could before clobbering the oilpan.... Then worked hard on both ends to build brackets to hang it. Ultimately, as you saw those pics I also needed to notch the frame to get the last inch of bump travel.
If you're willing to keep fighting for it you'll get there.
-G
andyblack
Registered Loser
Looks like if you dream big, you have to work long and hard to make your dreams come true. At least that's what I assume. I've always set my goals real low so that when I royally mess something up, I'm never too disappointed. Maybe I should be more like Babaganoosh. You've never let go of your 4x4 dream and now you're making it a reality. I salute you sir! 
Maybe I should be more like Babaganoosh. You've never let go of your 4x4 dream and now you're making it a reality. I salute you sir!
Thanks Andy but you give me way to much credit.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Have been thinking about this all day... I think I may buy the Ord bent drag link and notch the frame. Less then 5 inches of bump travel is crazy.
Nay or yay?
Nay or yay?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I would get your lack of full steering situation figured out first.
Short drag link or the ford pitman arm is not as long as the gm arm.
Now uou see why I went to a cantilevered steering. More work, but tunable as you build.
You know whats funny? I thought of that yesterday... Cardboard templates shipped to 85027?
Still struggling on what to do to fix the issues. I sent a PM to Chris for this thoughts and I need to sleep on it.
Cardboard templates shipped to 85027? Still struggling on what to do to fix the issues. I sent a PM to Chris for this thoughts and I need to sleep on it.
Talked to Chris at ORD, he mentioned trying to put the tie rod on the bottom of the knuckles instead of on the top so that it going to be done first.
To late to call or text but I want your opinion Wade. Do you think those tall misalignment spacers under the knuckles for the tie rods a candidate for the scary steering website? I think it might be "ok" but not sure what kind of load we are talking about.
If you're not double shearing a connection, shorted connection lengths are always better. Less leverage at the connection.
The drivers side will be but the passenger side will be single.
