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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

Overview Gallery Discussion
39% bump travel. :woot:

The heims on the drag link are maxed out though so I'm going to need a bent drag link.
5.4 bump travel and 8.6 droop.
IMG_20140401_182557_zps5324dd8c.jpg


It rubs the back of the fender. :doah:

IMG_20140401_183157_zps00b5ac92.jpg


The driveshaft will use 3 inches of slip at this setting.

Tie rod below the knuckle.
IMG_20140401_184336_zps34f986ac.jpg


Is this going to be safe?
 
Yeah I think that looks fine. Most 10 bolts were mounted to the bottom of the knuckle from the factory. I still think you could change to a TRE at the pitman arm for ~$20 if that is still an issue.
 
I would need a new drag link and pitman arm if I did that though.

Granted the hardware would be better I was in a hurry.
 
WFO makes tapered inserts to go back to TREs. I think I paid $10 for the pair or so. Just an idea. That Heim has been a source of frustration for you a few times. I think that route is far easier than notching the frame:whistle:
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
WFO makes tapered inserts to go back to TREs. I think I paid $10 for the pair or so. Just an idea. That Heim has been a source of frustration for you a few times. I think that route is far easier than notching the frame:whistle:
Click to expand...

Ohh yaa with the new bump travel number I won't be notching the frame. Even with TRE the joint would be put at a essive angle and I think a bent drag link is the way to go.
 
If you can afford the clearance, tie rods shouldn't need misalignment spacers at all.

As far as thread showing, they need to be buried in the thread WAY more than that.
 
Oh yes, I knew that was going to come up and It's way off I had to swap heims from my drag link to tie rod. I just threaded it in until it landed in the knuckle. The other side is threaded way far in. I set them up so it was half in and half out without the jam nut.

Thanks for the tip on the spacers, might just run the top one and run the nut to the heim. Would you use a washer?
 
38377k5 said:
If you can afford the clearance, tie rods shouldn't need misalignment spacers at all.

As far as thread showing, they need to be buried in the thread WAY more than that.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same.

I designed Craig's wishbone setup with 2 or 3 threads showing on the heims...



The travel looks good Ben :thumb:
 
Have tomorrow off if this is Ideal in bump travel and droop numbers I'll get the hoops figured out or end up teaming up with Adam for some shock towers.

In talks with TNA about a winch cradle revision bumper with a receiver hitch... My thoughts is sense I have these dimples in the frame I can't slip it into the rails and bolt it down. I want to build these two "wings" that will get bolted to the sides of the frame but sleeve the receiver hitch with two 3/4 bolts on each sides joining the ends together.

To remove the reciever hitch unbolt the 4 3/4 bolts then unbolt the 8 7/16th's bolt push the sides to the center and pull them out. If this doesn't seem like a good strong idea please let me know. Would like to maybe give this a try tomorrow and knock 2 things out.
 
That don't make no sene. Actually I think it does. But it's confusing. If your doing what I think your doing, it will work out fine.
 
y5mgisi said:
That don't make no sene. Actually I think it does. But it's confusing. If your doing what I think your doing, it will work out fine.
Click to expand...


Im glad your confused too. He was fb messaging me and I thought WHAAAAA???:dunno:

:haha:
 
It's hard for me to describe it cause I don't know the correct terminology.

I'm no fabricator. :whistle:



This is what I was saying the blue is the wings silver is the bolts and red is the receiver hitch. I want to be able to unbolt the wings and slide them into the receiver hitch to be able to slide it out of the frame passed the dimples.

hitch_zps0750e6d0.jpg


Pictures of said dimples.
IMG_20130924_181651_zps2d6dc51f.jpg


Hey look the mono leaf 2x6 suspension. :haha:
 
jekquistk5 said:
Get ahead of yourself much?
Click to expand...

No? Confused on this? Trying to utilize my time tomorrow and be fully productive. I'm not going to final weld the suspension so I want to get everything made so the welder can come over for a day and be done instead of multiple trips.
 
Why not just put two plates in said mounting position and then weld tube in....:dunno:



And I think jess was referring to... "GET THE SUSPENSION DONE FIRST" :whistle:
 
It wouldn't be remove able then?


Im going to, but I need to order parts I figured I could use my time wisely and get other stuff in the mean time done while I'm waiting.
 
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