CK5
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What about ground on the engine side? Either will throw off the gauges.

Have the battery grounded to the frame, then a strap to the block. The gauges are grounded right to the block per autometers instructions. I have moved it directly to the bat, frame and engine and this is the best I have got them to work.
 
Sounds like you were pretty thorough, but kinda fishy that 2 gauges are off.. Did you use any kind of anti-seize on the senders?
 
Didn't use any type of thread sealant on the sending until.

I have ohmed it all out but forget. I did cut the sending wire off and I think next I will put it together and run new wires to the gauge to bypass any electrical that has been used.
 
No manual. If you can find the resistance numbers that's supposed to run, may be able to mock each side up and test it. Just like fuel gauge 0-90ohm
 
Yes, the manual took about 30 seconds to read top to bottom... I'm starting to think the sender is bad, after reading the reviews on amazon it is pretty common but that is amazon.
 
Pretty slow at work today and trying to set up my digital dash on the tablet. Here is what I have, what else would you guys want? The bottom center and right are just in to fill the room up.

tmp_9847-Screenshot_2016-07-23-10-03-36-545204325.png
 
Pretty slow at work today and trying to set up my digital dash on the tablet. Here is what I have, what else would you guys want? The bottom center and right are just in to fill the room up.

View attachment 209952

Do you have speed/fuel/tach/oil/voltage somewhere else? :dunno:

I would keep MPG on my rig, but that's just me. MAP and AFR probably aren't something that you're going to use on a regular basis.
 
Do you have speed/fuel/tach/oil/voltage somewhere else? :dunno:

I would keep MPG on my rig, but that's just me. MAP and AFR probably aren't something that you're going to use on a regular basis.

Yes, the fuel, tach, volt, speedo, coolant and oil pressure are in cluster, this is just extra frills that will be mounted to the dash, with GPS and trail maps.


Funny you say that, I almost got a super charger a few years back for exchange my intake manifold...
 
Not sure, it idles right, just maxes out at 45. I have moved the grounds around, I might directly wire the gauge to the sender and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't I'll give autometer a call.

Also my coolant temp is reading 20 degrees cooler then the engine runs at.

I know it's not the same engine, but my coolant temp (in the head) reads around 20 degrees cooler than my ECM/thermostat temp. I'm not sure 20 degrees is enough to believe anything a wrong.
 
I know it's not the same engine, but my coolant temp (in the head) reads around 20 degrees cooler than my ECM/thermostat temp. I'm not sure 20 degrees is enough to believe anything a wrong.

I'm using the factory sensor and a autometer sender they both read 20 degrees different. It's really odd, bet I can do some google searching and come up with something.
 
Yes, the fuel, tach, volt, speedo, coolant and oil pressure are in cluster, this is just extra frills that will be mounted to the dash, with GPS and trail maps.



Funny you say that, I almost got a super charger a few years back for exchange my intake manifold...

So coolant temp is redundant, too? That frees up even more real estate. :thinking:
 

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