What about ground on the engine side? Either will throw off the gauges.
What about ground on the engine side? Either will throw off the gauges.
Pretty slow at work today and trying to set up my digital dash on the tablet. Here is what I have, what else would you guys want? The bottom center and right are just in to fill the room up.
View attachment 209952

Boost...Pretty slow at work today and trying to set up my digital dash on the tablet. Here is what I have, what else would you guys want? The bottom center and right are just in to fill the room up.
View attachment 209952
Do you have speed/fuel/tach/oil/voltage somewhere else?
I would keep MPG on my rig, but that's just me. MAP and AFR probably aren't something that you're going to use on a regular basis.
Boost...
Not sure, it idles right, just maxes out at 45. I have moved the grounds around, I might directly wire the gauge to the sender and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't I'll give autometer a call.
Also my coolant temp is reading 20 degrees cooler then the engine runs at.
I know it's not the same engine, but my coolant temp (in the head) reads around 20 degrees cooler than my ECM/thermostat temp. I'm not sure 20 degrees is enough to believe anything a wrong.
Yes, the fuel, tach, volt, speedo, coolant and oil pressure are in cluster, this is just extra frills that will be mounted to the dash, with GPS and trail maps.
Funny you say that, I almost got a super charger a few years back for exchange my intake manifold...

I'm using the factory sensor and a autometer sender they both read 20 degrees different. It's really odd, bet I can do some google searching and come up with something.

If I can get the Autometer to read the same I'll remove it.So coolant temp is redundant, too? That frees up even more real estate.![]()
Don't think they can be calibrated.Calibration error?![]()
Don't think they can be calibrated.

If I can get the Autometer to read the same I'll remove it.