I'll reuse them, just won't go ham and cheese on them. The axle we took apart to get the open carrier out just took a screw driver.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
His adjustors are just beat up they in no way shape or form need replaced. Just need cleaned up some and the biggest reason is so no metal might make its way to the ring and pinion.
Most people the first time they do em mess em up pretty good. I have seen way worse than what Ben did
Most people the first time they do em mess em up pretty good. I have seen way worse than what Ben did
I'm making a bunch of mental notes for when it's my turn.
The biggest problem I've seen is when they put them back in the wrong sides and crank the bearing caps down.
This is why I posted my mistake . This thread is a learning curve for me and I hope others can learn off it.
At this point it's like a book, page 467 has lessons on preload adjusters.
Dude you need a new thread..
Dude you need a new thread..
Ive always just found a good Phillips screw driver or punch that fits nicely, and made sure it was long enough to go all the way through and catch a hole on the back side as well. Paired with a hammer.
I know Eric said he made a tool for doing it, and I have an idea of what he did, but not really positive.
I know Eric said he made a tool for doing it, and I have an idea of what he did, but not really positive.
This doesn't really show much, but here's what the tool is "supposed" to look like, according to the CUCV manual. It has a couple pegs that go into the holes. I can't remember if there's an actual picture of it (didn't find it in my super-brief search), but I was thinking that the pegs didn't go all the way through to the backside.
Ugh I will see if I can find my tool. My stuff is all still in limbo. Can't wait to get my shop done
This doesn't really show much, but here's what the tool is "supposed" to look like, according to the CUCV manual. It has a couple pegs that go into the holes. I can't remember if there's an actual picture of it (didn't find it in my super-brief search), but I was thinking that the pegs didn't go all the way through to the backside.
View attachment 210934
Id bet they don't go all the way through either. Instead of grabbing on hole on both sides of the adjuster it grabs two on the easily accessible side. Wouldn't be hard to duplicate
Mine went all the way through. Correctly sized Phillips worked perfect for mine.
Yes, gm had a tool for this. When my diff was rebuilt, they made those things tight! No wonder I went the wrong way.
Creating a index would take some serious time I don't have. Spreading my dad's ashes in less then 3 weeks ashes and the truck is inoperable and the boat looks like this.
Creating a index would take some serious time I don't have. Spreading my dad's ashes in less then 3 weeks ashes and the truck is inoperable and the boat looks like this.
YOU CAN DOO EEEEETTTTT!!!!
Assuming that it is grabbing 2 of them, they can't be going all the way through, or you wouldn't be able to insert it.
FWIW, this screwdriver method is how I've done it 3 or 4 times. The adjusters should not be very tight, according to the manual.
For anyone taking notes, this is a decent collection of 14bff tech.
http://billavista.com/tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Bible/index.html
And more useful yet, if you're rebuilding one, he has picked through the CUCV manuals and pieced together their rebuilding instructions for these axles.
http://billavista.com/tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Bible/files/14b.pdf
If you search through the full manuals (TM9-2320-289-20 and TM 9-2320-289-34), they have rebuilding instructions & specs for 8.5" 10-bolt and Dana 60 axles as well.
It's my blazer bash list to
