bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You really don't need a fuse to protect the fuse block, but if you want to protect the solenoid, the fuse needs to be between it and the battery.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
You really don't need a fuse to protect the fuse block, but if you want to protect the solenoid, the fuse needs to be between it and the battery.
That is what I was thinking, but wanted to make sure and not kill any nuns. Chances are the run to the fuse block will be short anyway.
Yeah, its just a relay. I have a "battery isolater" between my two batteries but even that is just a mega duty relay. Continuous duty, hook up one "keyed" sourse wire to relay and other side to ground. Ultra low amps needed to trigger, so you can tap off just about any "keyed" sourse you can find. (Even stereo) With it set up, it gives you 12 new circuits only when key is on.
Wish I had done this the first time I wired the truck. No need for a factory fuse panel other than maybe blinkers, but those can be separate too.
Wish I had done this the first time I wired the truck. No need for a factory fuse panel other than maybe blinkers, but those can be separate too.
Cool beans, thanks for the clarification.
Found one, makes a lot more sense now...
This is what I use for glow plugs on 2 of my rigs. Simple and reliable. Have also used it in several normal (starting) applications, too. Have not tried it for continuous duty, though.
You want a continuous duty solenoid. Typical starter solenoids (intermittent duty) will run hot if constantly energized.
I'll get you the part number of the one I got from Napa when I get home tomorrow.
As far as wiring, it's easy. Think of the solenoid as a remote control switch. Send power to the small terminal and the switch closes to complete the circuit. You can do this from a keyed on source so it only works with the key on or on a constant (hot at all times) with a switch to turn the solenoid on or off manually at any time. That depends on what you want to do.
Circuit protection goes between the battery and the solenoid. It will protect the entire circuit through the solenoid if it is on. With the solenoid off everything after solenoid is a dead circuit. So the circuit breaker or fuse between the battery and solenoid is protected all the time.
I'll get you the part number of the one I got from Napa when I get home tomorrow.
As far as wiring, it's easy. Think of the solenoid as a remote control switch. Send power to the small terminal and the switch closes to complete the circuit. You can do this from a keyed on source so it only works with the key on or on a constant (hot at all times) with a switch to turn the solenoid on or off manually at any time. That depends on what you want to do.
Circuit protection goes between the battery and the solenoid. It will protect the entire circuit through the solenoid if it is on. With the solenoid off everything after solenoid is a dead circuit. So the circuit breaker or fuse between the battery and solenoid is protected all the time.
I like to go from battery to a resetable pollack/napa breaker then to a continuous duty solenoid then to your electrical goodies.
Well it's 10pm and I just got home, time to burn the midnight oil...
Walked out of cabellas with 2 carts full of boat stuff...
Walked out of cabellas with 2 carts full of boat stuff...
boat stuff doesn't help the truck
unless we're talking some James Bond s***
unless we're talking some James Bond s***
boat stuff doesn't help the truck
unless we're talking some James Bond s***
Yes but the boat is before moab
Well I was outside for a little over a hour, managed to look for a socket and not able to line the hitch up.
Not thinking straight I need some sleep.
Not thinking straight I need some sleep.
Rear axle is together, putting the tcase back together right now. Should be driving later today.
Just looked down and found that socket I spent a hour looking for.
Just looked down and found that socket I spent a hour looking for.
Can't seem to get the tcase to line up right, goes back together and won't spin. Any tricks to it and what's the torque spec of these bolts.
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Are you talking about the T-case to tranny seam? Or the two halves of the case itself?
Two halves of the tcase.
Went to my brothers to pack the bearings in the boat and reseal the hubs.... still leaks and slings a little grease.
If you have "bearing buddies", just put more grease in every few hundred miles. Doesn't matter if it leaks.
If you don't have bearing buddies, just don't overtighten the hub bearings, 10-12 ft-lbs max, they'll make it 1000 moles with that little boat.
Move on to the next.
If you don't have bearing buddies, just don't overtighten the hub bearings, 10-12 ft-lbs max, they'll make it 1000 moles with that little boat.
Move on to the next.
