If you wanted a lowered truck, you should have stuck with 2wd. I'm no help as the only solution in these things is less up travel for the axle.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
Just want it a inch or two lowerd. If I knew I wanted this early I would have done a long travel IFS with a 2500hd axle and tcase with electric shift...
Have you seen the kit that griffin fab works it’s starting to build? Uses the ifs out of a newer 2500 and is going to be long travel, looks like it’ll be fun.
Yes I have been dreaming of this for awhile now and they are doing exactly what I want to do.
I made both the S-10 and Silverado as low as possible and they're both pretty much mid travel on the shocks. However I'm running 8" coilovers on the front of the Silverado and 12" coilovers on the S-10. You're running 14's right? I think you should just lower the front and deal with not having the front shocks mid travel. Even if you lower the front 2" you'll only have 1" less bump than the S-10 with tons of droop.
Yes that is correct, I guess a little less bump won't be bad if I shorten the air bumps. I think you can do this with different shims in the air bumps.
The Silverado pretty much rides on the air bumps in the rear (2"x2") when I'm fully loaded (load of wood+full trailer etc.). Even like that it has a nice ride, the clunking doesn't bother me.
The clunking doesn't bother me anymore, the first few times it did. If I leave the driveway with some speed I'll hit them. At ride height they are 2.5 inches Way from the 3 inch bumps.
Really it all has to do with hanging out with desert guys and 1450 trucks.
Dont let the people around you dictate what happens to your truck. Make it do what you want. Make it dependable and use it.
Im gonna reiterate what Wade is saying here.. this is my opinion but I’ve found the same thing.. you need uptravel.. that’s what makes it ride good, I’d say no less than 6 inches up for how you drive it.. shorten the bumps to 2 in and play with valving. Get the rear dialed in how you like and run it.. don’t do the 3 year build thing like it did.. it’s not worth it unless you have another truck to wheel.. my blazer ended up working sooo much better after I raised it up 3 inches from where I started.. shorter bumps even more so made a big change. Low does not work on solid axles or beams.. there isn’t a way around the frame being in the way..
That's the thing, maybe I need some rear suspension but it doesn't seem very stable to go fast in turns. Also doesn't help my wheel selection.
It's not that that they are dictating it but I look at the ride height of them and I want that, but they don't have a SFA
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Life is about compromise. Your truck looks and works good the way it is. You wouldn't know the difference a inch lower. Quit worrying about what a ****ing race car looks like. You don't have a race car. Deal with it.
Well here is the deal, I might enter it as a class 8 this December...
beags86
Eastbound and Down
So build a race truck then
How much further do you have to go to pass tech?
I assume it's just for fun right?
For fun and safety requirements. Biggest thing is fuel tank and lines.
Daily driven do all truck
Heres my 2 cents.
If you want to get into racing. Actually do it with something competitive. If you commit yourself to run your truck things can spiral quickly. Just wanna go a little faster will turn to oh but we can do this, which more quickly than you think, turns your truck into a one trick pony. And one that doesn't even do it's trick very well.
Start looking at buggies. Whatever you can afford. Or trucks or whatever. You've already been bitten by the racing bug. Well go full force. Try to win. Winning gets sponsers, sponsers makes racing possible. The more you race the better you get.
You gotta pick. I've seen many guys go down this road. They usually regret starting with their daily driver type rig.
