A ground isn't always a good ground. Moved it to the battery problem solved.
CK5
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1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)
- Thread starter Babaganoosh
- Start date
I like to use a multi-meter.
Cuz ya can check the ohms, Holmes..
And yeah, I know, checking voltage drops works
I went off common sense but common sense leads to you need new body bushings and finger tight on the core support doesn't hit the frame ground.
Depending who you talk to, checking the voltage drop is a more accurate way to evaluate the integrity of a circuit. Using actual source voltage vs the small amount used from a DVOM measuring ohms lends to a better reading.I like to use a multi-meter.
Cuz ya can check the ohms, Holmes..
And yeah, I know, checking voltage drops works
Yep, and some say that that if the low current of a meter shows a problem, higher current will be worse.
Voltage drop measurement requires the circuit to be powered, where a resistance check doesn't, but can also lead to needing to disconnect some things for diagnosis in different situations.
I feel that both methods are useful, each more in different scenarios.
I was trying to hassle the Bent one a little, now you are actually talking technical. Are we supposed to be learning and helping?
Good information @ZooMad75
I like using a test light and multi meter, but I'm moving up in the world and using a power probe now.
Power probe is well worth every penny.
What does everyone think of this?
This would control the fans, fuel pump and headlights.
This would control the fans, fuel pump and headlights.
I've been know to sprinkle a little knowledge in with a heavy dose of sarcasm. But I noticed the harassment and decided to pile on.Yep, and some say that that if the low current of a meter shows a problem, higher current will be worse.
Voltage drop measurement requires the circuit to be powered, where a resistance check doesn't, but can also lead to needing to disconnect some things for diagnosis in different situations.
I feel that both methods are useful, each more in different scenarios.
I was trying to hassle the Bent one a little, now you are actually talking technical. Are we supposed to be learning and helping?
Good information @ZooMad75
Power probes are the shiznit too. So slick to use.
Those are pretty new, I think they make good sense but are a little expensive for 4 relays. They are solid state so that is good, and they reduce some wires because you don't have to connect a ground and power to every relay, so they are a little cleaner. And since they are solid state you can PWM them, which is a bonus if you are controlling nitrous solenoid or something.
I wonder if they are rated high enough to PWM a fan and run it slower sometimes...
Compared to 4 regular relays they are expensive, compared to 4 solid state, that is a decent price.
Exactly my thoughts, I tried looking for a similar cheaper one. A PWM for the fans would be the bees knees .
I was eyeballing those too. You must have received the same marketing email I did yesterday.
They are pricey but I like shiny new things. I've been looking for a cleaner way to wire a few things.They show on the video how you can wire them to handle a bigger load. A 4 channel unit that does 35 amps per channel could also be wired to run (2) 70 amp loads. Plenty for a fan.
I have the Derale PWM fan controller in the C10. The first one was bad out of the box, but the replacement is working fine. I do have 2 negatives, but 1 is easily fixed. First issue, the fan runs after the truck is turned off. I don't mind that too much except for my second dislike. The fan motor squeals when the power is low.
So the biggest complaint I have is when the fan runs after the truck is shut off, it squeals for the last few minutes. Sounds like a blaster on overload about to explode. I've had people knock on the door at home thinking something is wrong with the truck.
I think the ideal would be to put an ignition activated relay on the power feed to the PWM controller so it shuts off with the motor. Or if you could put in a time delayed shutoff so it would run like 60 seconds after the truck to do a little cooling and then shutoff and avoid the annoying squealing.
A friend sent me the link.I was eyeballing those too. You must have received the same marketing email I did yesterday.
They show on the video how you can wire them to handle a bigger load. A 4 channel unit that does 35 amps per channel could also be wired to run (2) 70 amp loads. Plenty for a fan.
I have the Derale PWM fan controller in the C10. The first one was bad out of the box, but the replacement is working fine. I do have 2 negatives, but 1 is easily fixed. First issue, the fan runs after the truck is turned off. I don't mind that too much except for my second dislike. The fan motor squeals when the power is low.
So the biggest complaint I have is when the fan runs after the truck is shut off, it squeals for the last few minutes. Sounds like a blaster on overload about to explode. I've had people knock on the door at home thinking something is wrong with the truck.
I think the ideal would be to put an ignition activated relay on the power feed to the PWM controller so it shuts off with the motor. Or if you could put in a time delayed shutoff so it would run like 60 seconds after the truck to do a little cooling and then shutoff and avoid the annoying squealing.
My fans pull 25 amps each I probably would buy the high amp rated one so I didn't have to use two channels.
I can get those relays if you need, but they are so new they aren't available quite yet. I do see the cleaner wiring to be appealing. I really want to know if they can handle fan PWM. I need to find that out, that's even better than two separate relays if you can ramp them up and down too. This normally requires a PWM fan control module as many solid state relays can't handle it. This one says 50-%90 duty cycle up to 150 Hz...hmmmm. Some Holley ECUs have PWM outputs for that.
Also, if you run the fan with the ECU you eliminate the separate controller and the fact that it runs when the power is off. But you also could fix the latter by putting the coil side power of the relay on a switched source, and just leave the main power to the battery.
Also, if you run the fan with the ECU you eliminate the separate controller and the fact that it runs when the power is off. But you also could fix the latter by putting the coil side power of the relay on a switched source, and just leave the main power to the battery.
I like where you are going with this and my thought process as well. What kind of time frame are we looking at for delivery?
The high capacity black relay is showing availability late this week, but I don't believe that until I see it these days...
It appears you could use it to ramp the fan speed up instead of instant on, but you can't leave the fans on half speed for an hour straight or something...
Nice, I get paid Friday.
Lmc parts showed up today. New radiator mounting plate and isolators.
I really wish I could come up with a better way to mount the radiator, something coming off the shock hoops tied into the core support.
Starting to feel like I'm trying to get fancy and won't make BB21
I really wish I could come up with a better way to mount the radiator, something coming off the shock hoops tied into the core support.
Starting to feel like I'm trying to get fancy and won't make BB21
