1982 C/K 6.0L Caitlyn Mall Crawler (Interior time)

[Babaganoosh]

While we are on the topic of wiring, what would be the best way to take 12v and step it down to 5v

@folkenheath this would be for holley sensors, does it matter if it isn't off the holley for inputs? Basically want to create a buss bar for any additional sensor I want to add for data logging. I should have bought a dominator setup .

 

[folkenheath]

Just take the 5V from one of the 5V terminals, it's not necessary to step it down...

here you can see from the pin map the fixed outputs, there are a few options for 5V supply...(A26, B8, B22, and B20).

They also have their own clean sensor grounds. I like to keep them on the same connector. For exampls, I used the 5V and Ground from the same connector as the trans for my trans pressure sensor. But I used a different one for the other sensors that I have the inputs on a different connector.

Double check your pin map to make sure it matches...

 

[folkenheath]

Here you can see the inputs, look like you have a 3 options on terminal J1 to program for 5V inputs...(anything with the lock signal can't be changed)

 

[folkenheath]

The good news is, if you ever decide to upgrade to the dominator ECU, all the connectors are the same, it just has a couple more of them too. Here are the Inputs from the Dominator in my Regal, you can see there are a lot that are not locked...there are nearly the same amount of programmable outputs to switch and control things too...

 

[Babaganoosh]

Just take the 5V from one of the 5V terminals, it's not necessary to step it down...

here you can see from the pin map the fixed outputs, there are a few options for 5V supply...(A26, B8, B22, and B20).

They also have their own clean sensor grounds. I like to keep them on the same connector. For exampls, I used the 5V and Ground from the same connector as the trans for my trans pressure sensor. But I used a different one for the other sensors that I have the inputs on a different connector.

Double check your pin map to make sure it matches...

View attachment 380645

I'll have to dig around it, I'm just trying to avoid doing a cut and splice in the holley harness. If I do, whats the best way?

 

[Babaganoosh]

How tight should the electric fans be to the radiator?

Ideally I would want it tight, just unsure how important this is.

 

[mrk5]

You mean how close the fans are to the radiator or if there are any gaps in the perimeter?

 

[Babaganoosh]

You mean how close the fans are to the radiator or if there are any gaps in the perimeter?

Yes sir.

 

[6872xtc]

I would find some high density foam or something to seal the shroud better, but I think that it is goo as it is. The fans sitting back as they are , should let it pull air through more of the core.
At least that's the way I understand it..

 

[Babaganoosh]

I would find some high density foam or something to seal the shroud better, but I think that it is goo as it is. The fans sitting back as they are , should let it pull air through more of the core.
At least that's the way I understand it..

I was thinking about spacing it with washers to push it further to the radiator. But that to me seems hack.

 

[ktmoutfront]

A sealed shroud is more important that spacing in you situation.

 

[Fastereddie]

I was thinking about spacing it with washers to push it further to the radiator. But that to me seems hack.

I was thinking about spacing it with washers to push it further to the radiator. But that to me seems hack.

 

[folkenheath]

Yes, ideally you would want it almost sealed all the way around, but a 1/8" space shouldn't cause a problem.

If you have any cooling issues and the radiator is too hot, then the first thing I would do is seal any gaps there. Any gaps will allow the fans to pull air around the shroud, and not through the core, which wastes the airflow and doesn't cool as much.

 

[folkenheath]

As for the wiring. I like to solder, and shrink tube with the epoxy tubing that melts and seals, not just covers. 14 AWG and smaller, I twist them together in a way that creates a smooth inline splice. 12 AWG and larger, I use a but connector with the plastic cut off, then I crimp that, and then solder it, and then shrink tube.

In your case for a 5A sensor supply and ground, a simply twist splice would be fine. Just make sure to solder and shrink tube it using the good stuff.

One warning, you will solder one and forget to put the shrink tube on and have to cut it off and redo it, it happens.

 

[folkenheath]

Another option is, if one of them is not used, you can just push the white sliders on the connector with a straight screwdriver, that allows you to insert new terminal wires, then slide it back to lock it in place. Then no soldering. Just make sure to use the sensor ground from the same connector.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Thanks for the tips, I really need to take a look at the harness and plan it out along with looking at the software.

 

[Chevy305]

I'm not a huge fan of soldering. To easy to mess up and can make the connection more brittle. Uninsulated butt connectors with adhesive lined heat shrink is the ticket.

However, there's also these solder butt connectors. Twist the wires together and hit it with heat to melt the solder and heat shrink. I'm trying these out on my injectors of all places.

 

[Babaganoosh]

I'm not a huge fan of soldering. To easy to mess up and can make the connection more brittle. Uninsulated butt connectors with adhesive lined heat shrink is the ticket.

However, there's also these solder butt connectors. Twist the wires together and hit it with heat to melt the solder and heat shrink. I'm trying these out on my injectors of all places.

View attachment 380899

I tried those before, didn't have really good luck with it, I ended up burning the heatshrink before the solder melted. It might have been my torch not being able to focus heat in the center.

 

[centexk5]

I love those solder shrinks. I just use my harbor freight heat gun on them. Works great.

 

[6872xtc]

I tried those before, didn't have really good luck with it, I ended up burning the heatshrink before the solder melted. It might have been my torch not being able to focus heat in the center.

I had the same results too often. I had good quality connectors, I believe, from Applied and they would leak the solder out net to where they had been crimped. Only would do it if the heat got applied too quickly, but we generally don't have time to string out a cord for the heat gun when doing a quick repair on a mixer truck, so the little torch is the go to.
Good heat shrink butt connectors do well for us on the 12V circuits on the mixers, stand up to water and acid fairly well.
I would solder the 5V signal wires personally. Don't go overboard with the heat or solder. And I try to plan where a splice is so that I can tie it down some way.