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CK5
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1984 K10 | My $$$ Eater
- Thread starter treborjm87
- Start date
4L60 = 700R4 so your NP208 should bolt right up to the back of the 4L60E with the stock adapter.
I think someone makes an adapter that attaches to the t-case speedo gear that provides a VSS signal for an ECM as well as drives a cable for the OE speedo. Check with Advanced Adapters for that.
Looking forward to see the build and thanks for your service!
(you might need a couple posts before you can attach pics)
I think someone makes an adapter that attaches to the t-case speedo gear that provides a VSS signal for an ECM as well as drives a cable for the OE speedo. Check with Advanced Adapters for that.
Looking forward to see the build and thanks for your service!
(you might need a couple posts before you can attach pics)
Confused...
I thought that the newer 4L60e's had a six bolt pattern (tail housing) compared to the 700R4 four bolt pattern. I've been looking at advance adapters PN: 50-0405. Has a VSS connector, but I can't tell for sure that it will bolt up to my NP208.
Twenty four years in the Air Force next month!!! What a ride it has been. Thank you to all that have stood behind us!
Thanks for the reply!
I thought that the newer 4L60e's had a six bolt pattern (tail housing) compared to the 700R4 four bolt pattern. I've been looking at advance adapters PN: 50-0405. Has a VSS connector, but I can't tell for sure that it will bolt up to my NP208.
Twenty four years in the Air Force next month!!! What a ride it has been. Thank you to all that have stood behind us!
Thanks for the reply!
That would be news to me, thought they shared the same case. Either way, what you want to do has been done before. Maybe the t-case adapter from the donor truck bolts to the old NP208.
I honestly haven't done this swap myself, just digging through my memory of what I have read here on this site. Quite a few people now have done the LS swap to their trucks, not sure how many have used the new trans or old or manuals or what.
Thanks for the info! I'll look into that!
I'm not sure but the 4L60E should be the same case as a 700R4,the 4l80E has the six bolt tail similar to a TH400 I think...
Greg Ducato here will know for sure,he is the guy who knows transmissions inside and out..
Greg Ducato here will know for sure,he is the guy who knows transmissions inside and out..
This should be helpful:
http://www.gmtruckhq.com/?q=700R4-4L60_Transmission_Information_History.html
700's and early 4l60's had the 4 bolt tailshaft, later 4l60's had the 6 bolt, if I understand correctly.
http://www.gmtruckhq.com/?q=700R4-4L60_Transmission_Information_History.html
700's and early 4l60's had the 4 bolt tailshaft, later 4l60's had the 6 bolt, if I understand correctly.
That's good information, thanks!
So, back to finding an adapter. I'm planning on calling advance adapters, to verify that PN: 50-0405 will work for me.
Thanks for all of the great discussion!
So, back to finding an adapter. I'm planning on calling advance adapters, to verify that PN: 50-0405 will work for me.
Thanks for all of the great discussion!
Pics!
Had some time to start cleaning up the truck since it has sat in a field for the last couple of years... To include a rat's nest that was under the seat... Yeah... Lots of poo. Good news is that NO electrical were chewed up.
Pass tank/switch problem, but seems to have gotten past that.
Didn't start right away, but after a new battery and plumbing in an electric fuel pump, I drove it from Van, Texas back to Arlington. Brakes are in Bad shape. I think I have a caliper sticking.
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Had some time to start cleaning up the truck since it has sat in a field for the last couple of years... To include a rat's nest that was under the seat... Yeah... Lots of poo. Good news is that NO electrical were chewed up.
Pass tank/switch problem, but seems to have gotten past that.
Didn't start right away, but after a new battery and plumbing in an electric fuel pump, I drove it from Van, Texas back to Arlington. Brakes are in Bad shape. I think I have a caliper sticking.
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Agreed!,,and up here after sitting ten years in a field,all 4 wheels would probably refuse to turn at all,the rust would lock up the brakes solid..and every brake line would pop like a firecracker first time you stepped on the pedal too....mich would have had a "field day" in it all those years too,most likely..in other words,you'd have to tow it away,and to a scrapyard,unless your a serious restorer with lots of cash & time to waste..
Thats still a sweet looking truck..calipers are cheap at Autozone,about 12 bucks exchanged last time I had to get one...wish I could park something here 10 years and still have it look that good..
Thats still a sweet looking truck..calipers are cheap at Autozone,about 12 bucks exchanged last time I had to get one...wish I could park something here 10 years and still have it look that good..
Looks like a nice start for a project. You said sitting in a field for ten years, my brain pictured things differently. Up here that means "You're lucky to have any sheetmetal left at all"
The little bit of rust that it does have came from living in MN for two years. The salted roads did a number on my rear fenders. The under carriage has quite a bit of surface rust too.
This was a California truck, so it had no rust until I drove it in MN.
East Texas has quite a bit of rain, but no seriously harsh weather. So, I'm lucky that it even started at all... I'll take that luck!!!
Thanks!
Had hoped to get the new brakes on this weekend so that I can get it registered next week. But the weekend got away from me, so it'll probably be next weekend before I can get to the brakes.
Was kind of thinking that since I have to take apart the hubs anyway, maybe I'd upgrade the hubs to the 8 bolt while I was there. Still not completely sure about all the extras that I'll need to do the upgrade. Hubs (bearings/races) and caliper mounts, right? Everything else will swap over?
Thanks again for responding!
Rob
If you can get the outers from an 8 lug front end at a boneyard they should be a bolt on deal--the differential is the same on 1/2 and 3/4 ton front ends,just the knuckles out are different on the 8 lug ones--bigger bearings and spindle ,and the 8 lug hub.....might be quicker and easier to get a whole front end too though..just make sure to match the gear ratio to the rear axle..
Sometimes you can find a complete axle with good brakes and all for cheaper than buying used outers would cost..
I regret scrappping my 77 GMC's running gear,I should have saved the 8 lug axles with 4,10's,I could gave put them in my Suburban..only got 225 bucks for scrap price in 2009 when I decided it was too rotted to put another tranny in it..looking back it was probably no worse off than my '82 is now!..
Sometimes you can find a complete axle with good brakes and all for cheaper than buying used outers would cost..
I regret scrappping my 77 GMC's running gear,I should have saved the 8 lug axles with 4,10's,I could gave put them in my Suburban..only got 225 bucks for scrap price in 2009 when I decided it was too rotted to put another tranny in it..looking back it was probably no worse off than my '82 is now!..
My plan is to convert my 10Bolt over to the 8 lug. I've been looking for the parts on CL and ebay. Ebay has a few possibilities, but I keep finding Dana44 parts. Are the hubs and backing plates the same for the 10Bolt Corp and Dana44?
I have 3.08's now. I'm looking for a 14BFF for the rear... 4.10's would be nice, but I'd rather stay in the 3.73 range to keep my mileage a little better. It will really all depend on what gears are in the 14Bolt that I end up with. I'll just match the front to the rear when I swap the rear out.
I have 3.08's now. I'm looking for a 14BFF for the rear... 4.10's would be nice, but I'd rather stay in the 3.73 range to keep my mileage a little better. It will really all depend on what gears are in the 14Bolt that I end up with. I'll just match the front to the rear when I swap the rear out.
Tire size you want to run and trans used should denote what gear ratio you need. General rule of thumb for an OD trans, 3.73 for 31s, 4.10 for 33s, 4.56 for 35s. This is a GENERAL rule not THE rule.
Gearing your truck higher (numerically lower) to get better mileage is a myth. Running the engine at too low an RPM at cruising speed can cause it to struggle or lug causing you lost mileage instead of gaining. Downshifting at every slight incline or oncoming breeze just to maintain speed doesn't help either.
Keep that in mind during your gear selection.
To answer your question, the GM corp 10b front is only GM specific from the center out to the axle tubes and inner C and inner shafts. The outer C, ball joints, spindles, hubs and outer stub shafts are D44. Most people selling stuff an C-list and ebay just call it D44 stuff cause that's all they know.
Personally, if I were you and looking to change to 8 lug, I'd be looking for a 10b front out of a 3/4 ton that already has 4.10 gears (if that's the ratio you decide on). For what you want to do it will be cheaper to swap in the whole front rather than just the outer stuff and regear the center. Don't limit your search to the internets, do some local junkyard shopping. I bet TX has a whole bunch of 3/4 ton 8 lug fronts kicking around and who knows, you may find a D60 front for a good price during your search.
Gearing your truck higher (numerically lower) to get better mileage is a myth. Running the engine at too low an RPM at cruising speed can cause it to struggle or lug causing you lost mileage instead of gaining. Downshifting at every slight incline or oncoming breeze just to maintain speed doesn't help either.
Keep that in mind during your gear selection.
To answer your question, the GM corp 10b front is only GM specific from the center out to the axle tubes and inner C and inner shafts. The outer C, ball joints, spindles, hubs and outer stub shafts are D44. Most people selling stuff an C-list and ebay just call it D44 stuff cause that's all they know.
Personally, if I were you and looking to change to 8 lug, I'd be looking for a 10b front out of a 3/4 ton that already has 4.10 gears (if that's the ratio you decide on). For what you want to do it will be cheaper to swap in the whole front rather than just the outer stuff and regear the center. Don't limit your search to the internets, do some local junkyard shopping. I bet TX has a whole bunch of 3/4 ton 8 lug fronts kicking around and who knows, you may find a D60 front for a good price during your search.
Agreed. That's what I did. Unless you need a very low (non stock) ratio, you're just about always better off swapping in a set of axles with the ratio you want, since Chevy axles are common. And a lot of the 3/4 ton axles are 4.10. Even if you swap in a D60 (4.56 available on CUCV axles), you'd get a lot more strength and would probably still be under the labor/parts cost of a regear.
I have been watching CL for any deals in my area, and may have a lead on a parting out 1 ton. Gear ratios are unknown at this time. Hoping for 4.10's or better.
Thanks for the advice on the axles!
Thanks for the advice on the axles!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
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Had some help cleaning out my cab this weekend. I think that she has already claimed this truck as her own. May have to fight her for it!
Years ago, I started to add carpet and all of the Silverado trim to the inside of the truck. Most of that trim has long since crumbled away... so, for now... I'll be sticking with the 'ol Custom Deluxe, out of the box trim.
About ten years ago, I added these Rancho traction bars. I had really bad leaf wrap... Now the Bushings have all wasted away. I think that I can still get them. I did find them one time... but I desperately need to replace them.
Years ago, I started to add carpet and all of the Silverado trim to the inside of the truck. Most of that trim has long since crumbled away... so, for now... I'll be sticking with the 'ol Custom Deluxe, out of the box trim.
About ten years ago, I added these Rancho traction bars. I had really bad leaf wrap... Now the Bushings have all wasted away. I think that I can still get them. I did find them one time... but I desperately need to replace them.
