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1984 K30 "C4" Truggy on Rockwells

It was really easy the way I did the frame shortening. I just cutoff the factory front brackets for the rear springs and moved them exactly 28" forward on the frame and bolted them back up. In doing it that way, it made it that the 4" flip brackets still bolted up right after the factory frame curves up to go over the rear axle in stock form (which is the same height as where the rear shackle brackets are on the frame anyways). You can see from the below pic, that yes the brackets aren't perfectly in line with the top of the frame because where I ended up bolting them up the frame is still narrowing a little bit, but it's totally fine. Plus, as you can see form the other picture, it ended up landing where the original rear bump stop bolted to the bottom of the frame which made it perfect for the bottom part of the flip brackets. And I also just have 6" cross-tied shackles. Then I just cutoff the excess frame behind the shackle flip and added a crossmember outta 2x4 square tubing. I will probably need to add at least a 1" ez inch or something to the rear to get it to match the front height, but I'm gonna wait to do that until after I get the rest of the drivetrain in and a bit more weight on it to make sure it's correct.

Like I said at the beginning of this thread, this thing did originally have a crappy 4" lift on it with blocks rear and cheap 4" lift springs in the front. I did the rear frame shortening/shackle flip before doing anything with the front, and it was still perfect in line on height with the 4" lift springs that were in the front. So you can take that info how you'd like to figure out if you can still use your 2.5" shackle flip, or if you want to go to 4" flip brackets.

If you end up getting a different truck that does more of the tow/haul duty, I think if you turned yours into a Cousin Willard replica with wheelbase shortening like this, and a functional tube bed (like Cousin Willard) it would be such a cool rig. That's kinda what I was thinking with this thing, other than just bigger with rockwells

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I was thinking it wouldn't matter if the flip brackets ended up being angled as long as they're tight to the frame.

2 factors are making me think about shortening the wheelbase. The first is doing something with the fuel tanks. They are both getting beat up. I have some ideas to better protect them, but I'm railing against having to buy 2 tanks when a single tank setup would be more efficient. The other factor is I've been running the crew cab for over 8 years now and I'm ready to do something new with it. Mainly I want to freshen up most all of the sheet metal and it's hard to find a good, complete bed that I could afford.

I don't really want to move the rear axle as far as you did, but I was thinking about moving it forward about 18". I would mount the drop hitch and air bags so I'd still be able to tow with it.

Your build is giving me a good opportunity to see what the rear part of the frame looks like. Plus it's looking like a really cool truck. :D
 
I was thinking it wouldn't matter if the flip brackets ended up being angled as long as they're tight to the frame.

2 factors are making me think about shortening the wheelbase. The first is doing something with the fuel tanks. They are both getting beat up. I have some ideas to better protect them, but I'm railing against having to buy 2 tanks when a single tank setup would be more efficient. The other factor is I've been running the crew cab for over 8 years now and I'm ready to do something new with it. Mainly I want to freshen up most all of the sheet metal and it's hard to find a good, complete bed that I could afford.

I don't really want to move the rear axle as far as you did, but I was thinking about moving it forward about 18". I would mount the drop hitch and air bags so I'd still be able to tow with it.

Your build is giving me a good opportunity to see what the rear part of the frame looks like. Plus it's looking like a really cool truck. :D

Yeah, for sure I agree that with the flip brackets, it doesn't matter if they have a little angle to it as long as you get them fully snug on the frame rail, which I was able to do with where I bolted them up.

I agree, that if you're thinking of doing something, I would just go a single larger tank and be done with it. I still have the dual tanks on my blue crew cab, but it's a dedicated tow rig, so it works fine for that. There are times when I'm towing and have to pull around a gas station to fill up the other tank that it still gets annoying, but it's alright for what I use it for.

I totally get it, one reason why I even started building this thing is cause I enjoy building stuff and like having a project around, so I understand the itch to do something different. If I remember right, going 18" forward would put you close to short-bed length. I still think a tube bed idea would be really cool on yours too. It would give you so much less sheet metal to worry about on the trail, but you could also build it how you want to house all your gear you normally have in the bed.

Hope my build helps you out on your vision of the direction of you truck...I'm really liking how this thing is turning out :waytogo:
 
A short bed truck has the axle 12" forward from the long bed. They take 12" out of the bend in front of and behind the rear axle to get from 6' to 8'.
 
Sounds awesome. Interested to see how the EFI setup works with the L29 long block. It should make some reliable power for sure.
 
How do you like the fitment of the headers? What are they? Ive got to buy a set soon for mine.
 
Sounds awesome. Interested to see how the EFI setup works with the L29 long block. It should make some reliable power for sure.

I think even in stock form it should produce possibly a bit more power then with the stock vortec injection on it, as soon as I get timing and everything dialed in. With how quick and easy this thing first fired up, so far I'm very happy with this EFI setup. Was crazy easy to setup for initial fireup.

How do you like the fitment of the headers? What are they? Ive got to buy a set soon for mine.

Headers fit pretty good. Couple little small things here and there to work around to get them installed, but not too bad at all. They're just the cheaper style Headman Headers that are mid-length. I think they were just under $300 to my door, so not bad.
 
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Battery mounted. Bought a battery mount designed for an Optima Redtop off Amazon for a pretty good price. Other than wiring up some lights and a few other random electrical things that come up, the whole electrical system is pretty much done. I love the fact that right from the driver seat I can pretty much trouble shoot any and all electrical issues with a bubble tester (since I have all my power and grounds going to one location on the firewall just above where this battery is mounted). For a trail rig that’s going to be freaking awesome!

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If you haven't already you should stick a battery disconnect right there too. With everything being right in arms reach you could just reach over and shut it off if something goes wrong.
 
If you haven't already you should stick a battery disconnect right there too. With everything being right in arms reach you could just reach over and shut it off if something goes wrong.

I could look to add one of those later on...to be honest, I'm really not that worried about it. My brother has had an Optima mounted right next to his seat in his crawler for about 8 years with no issues at all. This was the easiest place to mount the battery and do the wiring super clean and easy after I pinched the frontend
 
Bought some summit racing bucket seats. Was trying to decide how to mount them. Ended up taking the factory seat bases for the bench seat and built a pretty simple structure off that outta 1x1 square tubing. Then drilled some holes and bolted the seats to that. Seats still have full slide and recline functionality to them, which is super nice. The passenger seat I’ll probably have slid all the way forward most of the time. With no dash components you still have a crazy amount of leg room, but now the rear passengers have a ton more leg room too. The seats sit up just a little bit higher than stock which I like for visibility. Only downside is this truck has a non-tilt steering column and now the steering wheel is in your lap a bit. So I may try to source a factory tilt column to swap in, or may just get a smaller aftermarket steering wheel instead. We’ll see.

I really like how it turned out. I’ll eventually build mounts for my tranny and tcase shifters off this when that time comes.

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Somewhere somehow i think 88-98 columns are shorter. Also maybe a jeep yj could probably bolt in.
 

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