1985 Chevy M1009 (CK5 build thread part 2)

[cheavyk10]

Rear Disc Brake Conversion:
I had every intention of fixing the drums brakes on the 14-bolt, but I just happened to jump on Ruff Stuffs website and saw they we having a 15% off sale on their brake kits. It was an easy decision from there, as I have been running one of their kits on my K10 since 2018 with zero issues. To compliment the new parts, I also ordered up ORD's brake line kit for disc brake conversions, as well as their improved design 14-bolt hub seals.
Taking it all apart was easy. I blasted out the wheel studs with a brass drift and mini-sledge.
You can see here the hubs seals were definitely ready to be swapped:

New two piece seals:

Fresh rotors installed onto back of hubs with the same studs:

Axle ready for the brackets:

Caliper brackets installed (I had painted them a while ago):

Hub and rotor, along with new caliper installed:

Ruff Stuff uses brand new calipers, that are universal side to side. Yes, they have two holes for the banjo bolt, and two bleeders. They send them loaded with pads and hardware. When I ordered the kit, I asked if I should paint the calipers, and they said that they are coated with a heat treating, so there is no need to paint them, unless I wanted to. I kinda like the silver.
The brake lines are soft, and ORD's kit comes with P-Clamps and bolts to secure it the axle. I tacked two of the bolts on to the tube for the P-Clamps. I also ran the soft lines under the springs; on my K10 they go up and over the springs. I am not so sure I like it this way, but we will see.




Also, check out the difference between the way the drums used to stick out and how the discs are tucked in nicely:


After bleeding, I took it for a test drive and the brakes feel awesome! It slows down nice and straight, with a firm pedal, and I don't think I will need an adjustable proportioning valve. I am very happy with the results.

 

[Wes Harden]

What master cyl are you using now?

Any parking brake?

 

[cheavyk10]

What master cyl are you using now?

Any parking brake?

Master cylinder is the stock, hydro boost unit.
No parking brake right now, I will probably end up going with ORD's line lock kit.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

That looks awesome, at some point I'll do this

 

[kennyw]

Rear Disk Brake Conversion:
I had every intention of fixing the drums brakes on the 14-bolt, but I just happened to jump on Ruff Stuffs website and saw they we having a 15% off sale on their brake kits. It was an easy decision from there, as I have been running one of their kits on my K10 since 2018 with zero issues. To compliment the new parts, I also ordered up ORD's brake line kit for disk brake conversions, as well as their improved design 14-bolt hub seals.
Taking it all apart was easy. I blasted out the wheel studs with a brass drift and mini-sledge.
You can see here the hubs seals were definitely ready to be swapped:
View attachment 515226
New two piece seals:
View attachment 515227
Fresh rotors installed onto back of hubs with the same studs:
View attachment 515228
Axle ready for the brackets:
View attachment 515229
Caliper brackets installed (I had painted them a while ago):
View attachment 515230
Hub and rotor, along with new caliper installed:
View attachment 515231
Ruff Stuff uses brand new calipers, that are universal side to side. Yes, they have two holes for the banjo bolt, and two bleeders. They send them loaded with pads and hardware. When I ordered the kit, I asked if I should paint the calipers, and they said that they are coated with a heat treating, so there is no need to paint them, unless I wanted to. I kinda like the silver.
The brake lines are soft, and ORD's kit comes with P-Clamps and bolts to secure it the axle. I tacked two of the bolts on to the tube for the P-Clamps. I also ran the soft lines under the springs; on my K10 they go up and over the springs. I am not so sure I like it this way, but we will see.
View attachment 515232
View attachment 515233
View attachment 515234
View attachment 515235
Also, check out the difference between the way the drums used to stick out and how the disks are tucked in nicely:
View attachment 515236
View attachment 515237
After bleeding, I took it for a test drive and the brakes feel awesome! It slows down nice and straight, with a firm pedal, and I don't think I will need an adjustable proportioning valve. I am very happy with the results.

Figure out if the front or rear brakes lock up first.

 

[cheavyk10]

Figure out if the front or rear brakes lock up first.

Yes, more testing to come as the brakes get broken in.

 

[cheavyk10]

Of course I thought about it overnight and didn't like the way I routed the brake lines on the axles. So I went back out this morning and ran them up and over the top of the springs, which makes me way happier. I did end up using a little bit of fuel hose wrapped around the brake lines by the spring plates in case there was any rubbing.
And this DOT 5 spec silicone brake fluid isn't cheap. But silicone is what the military used.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Of course I thought about it overnight and didn't like the way I routed the brake lines on the axles. So I went back out this morning and ran them up and over the top of the springs, which makes me way happier. I did end up using a little bit of fuel hose wrapped around the brake lines by the axle plates in case there was any rubbing. View attachment 515283View attachment 515284View attachment 515285View attachment 515286View attachment 515287View attachment 515288
And this DOT 5 spec silicone brake fluid isn't cheap. But silicone is what the military used.
View attachment 515289

It's like 40 bucks a can near me.

 

[cheavyk10]

It's like 40 bucks a can near me.

Those 11 oz bottles are $15 at my local O'Reilly's.

 

[cheavyk10]

Rocker and Floor Rust Repair:
Finally got all the pieces together to tackle the rusty passenger side rockers.
Got more than I thought I needed from LMC:

Popped the passenger door off and changed the hinge pins and bushings:

Then I pulled the rock sliders, the seats and the floor mat. And, as I knew would happen, I created more work for myself...someone has been here before, and filled the holes in the floor with Bondo, even the pin holes, and then painted black over it all. So that means I am going to fix everything, not just the rockers. Fun fact: the M1009 has been parked inside for a month, and it was still wet under the rubber mat.
You can see the goobered Bondo on the rocker:

After I did the screwdriver test:

There is this rubberized coating on the floor, (just in the front footwell) which I haven't seen before. It looks factory, as there was green paint over the top of it. I get the fun job of removing it all.

Oooo, and a fun surprise:

I will get back on it today, with the mission being to completely clean the floor (well, the passenger side for now), probably with a flap disk at this point, and then maybe start cutting.

 

[kennyw]

Oof, I didn't expect that much rust. But you never do.

 

[fastazz81]

That was about as bad as my blazer. Water stays under those rubber mats until it turns to rust unfortunately.

 

[cheavyk10]

The mat is not going back in. Gonna stay uncovered and give it a nice coat of 383 green for the finishing touch.

 

[76zimmer]

? about the calipers…not all seals are compatible w Dot5, might want to check that.
Also I think you'll be happy w that caliper coating, I believe thats what GM used on my 21 Blazers calipers, and they still look great after 5 MI. winters.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Oh man that's some rust. Glad you got floor panels.

 

[cheavyk10]

? about the calipers…not all seals are compatible w Dot5, might want to check that.
Also I think you'll be happy w that caliper coating, I believe thats what GM used on my 21 Blazers calipers, and they still look great after 5 MI. winters.

That's interesting, the CUCV's were all government spec'd for silicone brake fluid, and I've never seen different part numbers for any of the calipers. I haven't had any issues since I first did brake work on this a year and a half ago.

 

[cheavyk10]

Made some headway today, got the passenger side floor cleaned up with some 60 and 80 grit flap disks. There was random Bondo here and there, for no apparent reason. The floor is pockmarked, but really not that bad.


Started cuttin', slowly, just taking a few pieces at a time:

Obviously I've got the edge of the floor to cut out, and I need to cut some more of the front of the rocker. I may take the fender off for better access. So far so good!

 

[76zimmer]

That's interesting, the CUCV's were all government spec'd for silicone brake fluid, and I've never seen different part numbers for any of the calipers. I haven't had any issues since I first did brake work on this a year and a half ago.

Do you know if the fluid is spec 5 or 5.1?
Spec 5 is silicone, spec 5.1 is still glycol based fluid.
When I changed everything on my Duramax, Powerstop warned against using DOT5. My caliper kits for my Vette said the same. Mostly due to the material of the seals and brake flex lines being incompatible with the Silicone. Also ABS systems.
Whatever you decide to use, completely flush any old fluid out! Good luck!

 

[Barrman]

Yes, military brake fluid used was Brake Fluid Silicone. DOT 5. I have darn near 20 years on some of my replacement wheel cylinders, calipers and hoses with no issues. I like and still use the DOT 5 because the metal piping is less likely to rust out from the inside. Same with the calipers and wheel cylinders. You do need to if not totally flush them every few years at least flush a few ounces through each corner every so often so any water in the lines won’t eat at the same spot.

Everything I have been able to figure out is that the compressibility of the silicone based fluid is just a little bit more spongy than the glycol based fluids. That messes with anti lock brake systems which is why it isn’t recommended for newer vehicles.

 

[cheavyk10]

Yes, military brake fluid used was Brake Fluid Silicone. DOT 5. I have darn near 20 years on some of my replacement wheel cylinders, calipers and hoses with no issues. I like and still use the DOT 5 because the metal piping is less likely to rust out from the inside. Same with the calipers and wheel cylinders. You do need to if not totally flush them every few years at least flush a few ounces through each corner every so often so any water in the lines won’t eat at the same spot.

Everything I have been able to figure out is that the compressibility of the silicone based fluid is just a little bit more spongy than the glycol based fluids. That messes with anti lock brake systems which is why it isn’t recommended for newer vehicles.

Thank You for the confirmation!!
It may be of concern in newer rigs, but our old junk should be just fine.