What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Parts came in over the weekend. I'm all set to rebuild the axle. I need to buy a crapload of grease.

Definitely dreading having to knock the new race into the lower C. We'll see how it goes.
 
this is were a good seal and race driver set is worth its weight in gold .

trick i do is the new tin cap before you set it up in the lower part of the inner "c" i put a small bead of RTV around it were it seats up to the inner "c" body . this will help keep water out that might sit up in there and try and wick down inside . then tap the race home . and do NOT put the race in the wrong way buddy ! ! !

lucas red & tacky

lucas-red-n-tacky.jpg
 
Thanks @sweetk30 !!

I was using this stuff for doing the wheel bearings on my K5. I got it from Harbor Freight:
Wheel Bearing Grease

Wheel Bearing Grease


Instead of doing that I'll buy some of that Lucas Red 'n Tacky.

In the installation video they also use grey silicone paste in some places:

Do you think I can use this stuff? I should read up on the difference between all these different types of silicone.
Black RTV

Black RTV


I also have red RTV but I doubt I should be using that:
Red RTV

Red RTV

 
You can also throw the race in a freezer for awhile to get it good and cold. Helps a little.

I use Right Stuff gasket maker for most everything. I can't tell you much about the others.
 
good video but my gosh are they behind the times in the tool department . . . . all the money they charge us for there stuff and they dont have a race and seal driver / bearing packer tool / why line the lowest part / seal with silicone but not the tin cup to the body ? ? / also why not tell the spec for the king pin to inner " c " ? 500-600 ft lb / not to sure on socket as seal driver on that style seal . the inner teeth can booger up the seal body if your not to careful . / i dont grease the king pin lower body . i use copper anti-seize so you dont get as frozen in the knuckle like we all fight them to get them out / another tip he forgot was brace the knuckle up to help in the install of the upper king pin bushing and spring and cap . notice he lifted it with his hand and got lucky . / and save your self some grease gun time and fill the king pin top hex with grease and the spring with grease . otherwise thats a LOT of pumping .

and do not re-use king pin springs there cheep and about every one i have removed is sagged out and was causing play and little to a lot of death wobble .

had this for years and use the hell out of it . WAY FASTER . https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty...al/pneumatic-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set

this little guy is GOLD for packing wheel bearings . https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/bearing-grease-and-seal/handy-packer-bearing-packer
 
I didn't know you could get an attachment for an air hammer to the race drivers.
 
Getting geared up to start reassembling everything. Really excited to have this thing back on the road.

I was comparing parts earlier today and noticed that my new lower kingpin that I bought off eBay is a lot slimmer than the one that came off:

Lower Kingpin Old vs New

Lower Kingpin Old vs New


I think I remember reading about this on the Dana 60 Bible, just wondering now whether I need to return this or get an adapter or something. Perhaps I can just get some extra washers so the factory bolts bottom out at the right spot.

EDIT: Nevermind, it doesn't seem to matter if a little bit of lower kingpin bolt pokes out of the knuckle. I should be good to go.
 
Last edited:
Made some good progress tonight. Passenger side knuckle is back on. Driver's side is close. Only thing that prevented me from getting it on tonight is that I noticed my spring retainer on that side is trashed. It was bent and there is a pretty sizeable groove in it from the spring. I figure I can bang it straight again with a hammer and reuse it, but it's also probably a cheap replacement part and maybe it makes more sense to just order a new one. What do you guys think?
 
If it’s trashed, you should at least price the replacement
 
i forget are you puting in a kit for the king pin fresh up ? if so it should of had new .

if not i would get one as the smallest height difference can make the spring pressure change and then when to low of pressure = death wobble .
 
@Bent77 @sweetk30 thanks guys. It feels better to know that everything in there is new and there is no chance of having issues.

I had picked up this kit from eBay - unfortunately it doesn't include spring retainers:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/361489252975

Gonna shop around for a quick spring retainer purchase right now.

EDIT: I always default to looking around online, but I live super close to two separate 4x4 shops. Pretty dumb of me to default to online. It looks like the 4WheelParts just south of me has this spring retainer in stock for $2.68... score!
 
Last edited:
fairly stupid of that power seller to NOT just include the washer .

if you needed and couldnt find them i have some new and good used in stock .
 
I cruised up north and bought the spring retainer from 4WP. They have a giant warehouse and it was cool to walk in there and see it all.

Now that the kingpin work is wrapping up, I am starting to think about the rest of the work I have to do in "Phase 1" of this project.

Here is a rough list of things I want to do once both knuckles are back on:
  1. Clean and lube locking hubs.
  2. New pads and rotors.
  3. Bleed the front brakes.
  4. One of my inner spindle nuts has the pin sheared off.
  5. Regrease bearings, clean everything, etc.
Here are some questions:

1. I have one new rotor that came with the truck. It's covered in surface rust but is otherwise new. If I buy another new rotor to match, should I clean up that surface rust before running it?
2. Do I need to replace that inner spindle nut that has the pin sheared off? It seems pretty important and I don't mind doing it.
3. What am I missing? What would you all do while you're in here that I might have missed?
4. Any seals that I should just go ahead and replace even if mine look fine?
 
I would scoff the surface rust off of the brake surface, and replace the spindle nut. You probably could have gotten one at 4WP while you were there.
:dunno:

The seals are typically replaced whenever you have it apart.
 
You should replace the wheel seal as @6872xtc mentioned.

You could probably take a lot of the rust off with brake cleaner. It's not a huge deal unless there's pitting. If you leave a vehicle parked for a while, the rotors frequently get a rust haze on them. Pretty much comes off with the first brake application.

The pin is part of what helps hold the pre-load on the wheel bearings, so it would be best to replace it.
 
Thanks guys. Does anyone happen to have a link to a video that shows separating the rotor from the hub body? I think I might need to rent a tool that I don't have - I've never seen it done before.
 
Last edited:
If I remember correctly, you have to press the studs out. You can hammer them out, but use something like a wood block so you don't mess up the threads.
 
The other mistake I made first time I did brakes on a Dana 60 was to not put the clips on the ends of the brake pads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom