CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Those do come in handy.
You could use a 2x4 or something to help hold the panel out while you work.
Ordered.
I have both a 1/2" and a 3/8".
Big part of my arsenal
I ended up getting the bracket off via the suggestion from @mrk5. Thanks again.
It took a while, but I managed to get the old "window" out via this YouTube video. The glass had shattered so there really wasn't much window left:
Next I am going to try and shop vac the inside of the door. There is a ton of crap in there. Then I am going to clean the window glass that I got from @Capt Ron and try to get that installed.
I have not removed my vent window yet. Since there was no glass left on this window track, I was able to get it out without removing the vent window. But I doubt I'll be able to install the new glass with it in place. I don't really want to replace the window channel / weatherstripping / lining that runs through the door, because I'm in a little bit of a rush to get this done. But perhaps I should just bite the bullet and replace it because mine is certainly old and brittle. I just don't want to wait for it to come in the mail.
It took a while, but I managed to get the old "window" out via this YouTube video. The glass had shattered so there really wasn't much window left:
Next I am going to try and shop vac the inside of the door. There is a ton of crap in there. Then I am going to clean the window glass that I got from @Capt Ron and try to get that installed.
I have not removed my vent window yet. Since there was no glass left on this window track, I was able to get it out without removing the vent window. But I doubt I'll be able to install the new glass with it in place. I don't really want to replace the window channel / weatherstripping / lining that runs through the door, because I'm in a little bit of a rush to get this done. But perhaps I should just bite the bullet and replace it because mine is certainly old and brittle. I just don't want to wait for it to come in the mail.
Take the rear channel loose. You'll want to take the regulator out. Start the glass from the inside side of door at an angle. Get your up your nose just right, and then it'll slip all the way in the door. Once in the lower part of door fit into front channel. Then the rear channel, install the rear channel bolts but leave loose. Re install regulator, by sliding glass back and forth to algin slots with wheels. White grease on wheels and glass sash. Roll window 1/2 up get rear channel close to finish tighten, just enough that you could move with a little force. Roll wind up then down adjust rear channel as needed
I went out last night with the intent of installing the window. Before I got that far, I cleaned the garage. It felt great to organize a little bit.
When cleaning, I noticed a junkyard part that I had pulled a few weeks back. It's the socket for the blinker / marker light in the front.
I pulled it from a junkyard because of the notes that I had from the previous owner:
I removed the battery tray and took a good look at the socket that was already installed. Sure enough it was wrapped in electrical tape all over:
So, I decided to replace it with the one I bought from the junkyard. I snipped the two main wires (brown and blue) and then used this technique to connect the junkyard socket to the wiring. I don't have a sodering iron, so I had to make do. I figured that the junkyard socket was cheap ($2?) so it was worth the experiment. You all probably already know or noticed that there is a third wire going into the socket in the pic above. It's a black wire leading into a plug thing that you can pull out. Well, I reused that on the junkyard socket. When I pulled it out of my original socket, the end of it (the metal part) was wrapped in aluminum foil. I s*** you not. So I removed the aluminum foil and part of it broke.
After I was done, I tested again. There was honestly no change. So, I swapped the bulbs. The passenger marker light came on, but the driver's marker was off. It would seem like a simple bad bulb, but the catch is that both bulbs illuminate fine when the blinker is actually on. It's only when the blinker is off that one of these bulbs isn't illuminating.
Here is a picture of the bulb that actually illuminates when the blinkers are not on:
I found some spare bulbs in the truck, so I tried swapping those in. They would not illuminate unless I actually turned on the blinker(s). I am completely dumbfounded, because the part number ("2057") is on them just like the bulb that works. Here are the spares:
I am at a loss. I know that I should replace the broken third wire that goes into the socket, so I'll try to snag that from a junkyard this weekend... but the socket seems fine. It "behaves" just as it should, so long as the magic bulb pictured above is inside of it.
This issue probably has such a simple root cause. Let me know if anyone can teach me a bit about this stuff. One final comment... the passenger blinker is slow as hell. It works, and the bulb illuminates, but it takes 5+ seconds (maybe even 10+ seconds) in between flashes. I presume that's a clue. I am going to look through other threads on the forum to read more about it.
When cleaning, I noticed a junkyard part that I had pulled a few weeks back. It's the socket for the blinker / marker light in the front.
I pulled it from a junkyard because of the notes that I had from the previous owner:
"lights are okay, headlights are okay
-front passenger marker light doesn't work - not the bulb it's the socket
-rear lights are good
-blinkers work sometimes but other times just stay on"
I removed the battery tray and took a good look at the socket that was already installed. Sure enough it was wrapped in electrical tape all over:
So, I decided to replace it with the one I bought from the junkyard. I snipped the two main wires (brown and blue) and then used this technique to connect the junkyard socket to the wiring. I don't have a sodering iron, so I had to make do. I figured that the junkyard socket was cheap ($2?) so it was worth the experiment. You all probably already know or noticed that there is a third wire going into the socket in the pic above. It's a black wire leading into a plug thing that you can pull out. Well, I reused that on the junkyard socket. When I pulled it out of my original socket, the end of it (the metal part) was wrapped in aluminum foil. I s*** you not. So I removed the aluminum foil and part of it broke.
After I was done, I tested again. There was honestly no change. So, I swapped the bulbs. The passenger marker light came on, but the driver's marker was off. It would seem like a simple bad bulb, but the catch is that both bulbs illuminate fine when the blinker is actually on. It's only when the blinker is off that one of these bulbs isn't illuminating.
Here is a picture of the bulb that actually illuminates when the blinkers are not on:
I found some spare bulbs in the truck, so I tried swapping those in. They would not illuminate unless I actually turned on the blinker(s). I am completely dumbfounded, because the part number ("2057") is on them just like the bulb that works. Here are the spares:
I am at a loss. I know that I should replace the broken third wire that goes into the socket, so I'll try to snag that from a junkyard this weekend... but the socket seems fine. It "behaves" just as it should, so long as the magic bulb pictured above is inside of it.
This issue probably has such a simple root cause. Let me know if anyone can teach me a bit about this stuff. One final comment... the passenger blinker is slow as hell. It works, and the bulb illuminates, but it takes 5+ seconds (maybe even 10+ seconds) in between flashes. I presume that's a clue. I am going to look through other threads on the forum to read more about it.
Are the back lights as slow as the front or normal? Have you replaced the flasher? Could be your fubared wire or a bad ground.I went out last night with the intent of installing the window. Before I got that far, I cleaned the garage. It felt great to organize a little bit.
When cleaning, I noticed a junkyard part that I had pulled a few weeks back. It's the socket for the blinker / marker light in the front.
View attachment 395266
I pulled it from a junkyard because of the notes that I had from the previous owner:
"lights are okay, headlights are okay-front passenger marker light doesn't work - not the bulb it's the socket-rear lights are good-blinkers work sometimes but other times just stay on"
I removed the battery tray and took a good look at the socket that was already installed. Sure enough it was wrapped in electrical tape all over:
View attachment 395267
So, I decided to replace it with the one I bought from the junkyard. I snipped the two main wires (brown and blue) and then used this technique to connect the junkyard socket to the wiring. I don't have a sodering iron, so I had to make do. I figured that the junkyard socket was cheap ($2?) so it was worth the experiment. You all probably already know or noticed that there is a third wire going into the socket in the pic above. It's a black wire leading into a plug thing that you can pull out. Well, I reused that on the junkyard socket. When I pulled it out of my original socket, the end of it (the metal part) was wrapped in aluminum foil. I s*** you not. So I removed the aluminum foil and part of it broke.
After I was done, I tested again. There was honestly no change. So, I swapped the bulbs. The passenger marker light came on, but the driver's marker was off. It would seem like a simple bad bulb, but the catch is that both bulbs illuminate fine when the blinker is actually on. It's only when the blinker is off that one of these bulbs isn't illuminating.
Here is a picture of the bulb that actually illuminates when the blinkers are not on:
View attachment 395269
I found some spare bulbs in the truck, so I tried swapping those in. They would not illuminate unless I actually turned on the blinker(s). I am completely dumbfounded, because the part number ("2057") is on them just like the bulb that works. Here are the spares:
View attachment 395268
I am at a loss. I know that I should replace the broken third wire that goes into the socket, so I'll try to snag that from a junkyard this weekend... but the socket seems fine. It "behaves" just as it should, so long as the magic bulb pictured above is inside of it.
This issue probably has such a simple root cause. Let me know if anyone can teach me a bit about this stuff. One final comment... the passenger blinker is slow as hell. It works, and the bulb illuminates, but it takes 5+ seconds (maybe even 10+ seconds) in between flashes. I presume that's a clue. I am going to look through other threads on the forum to read more about it.
The back lights are as slow as the front. The front light illuminates and then the back light comes on right after that. They cycle through that sequence every 5-10 seconds.
When you ask if I've replaced the flasher... which part in particular are you referring to? Sorry, I don't know much about this yet - I figured it was just the bulb, the socket, and then the turn signal switch.
When you ask if I've replaced the flasher... which part in particular are you referring to? Sorry, I don't know much about this yet - I figured it was just the bulb, the socket, and then the turn signal switch.
The flasher is the cylindrical thing on the top of the fuse block.
I would try cleaning up (wire brush/wheel) all of the grounds. The black wires off the sockets should each go to a ring terminal under a bolt on the core support. In order to flash, they need a good ground path.
I would try cleaning up (wire brush/wheel) all of the grounds. The black wires off the sockets should each go to a ring terminal under a bolt on the core support. In order to flash, they need a good ground path.
Yeah
I’d try what Scott said.
actually look at all the bulbs that are turn signals and running/brake lights bulbs. Some times one element will break and connect to the other element, this will short the two circuits together. The flasher can be slowed by the higher resistance, but if it blinks that is not the issue at the moment.
That's a good point too. I just had this happen with the same bulbs in my crew cab.
After cleaning the grounds and looking at the front blinker bulbs and tail light bulbs... I decided to look at the driver's-side socket. It too was wrapped in electrical tape so I pulled all that off.
The light actually came on when it had a bulb in it that I didn't think would work. Turns out the black wire has a real loose connection:
View attachment PXL_20211113_195354489.mp4
So I'm going to play around with this and see if it will stick.
The light actually came on when it had a bulb in it that I didn't think would work. Turns out the black wire has a real loose connection:
View attachment PXL_20211113_195354489.mp4
So I'm going to play around with this and see if it will stick.
Last edited:
The black wire is probably the ground. So not having the ground on the new replacement is probably the source of the trouble.
It is acting like a bad ground so I say you are probably right
Once I realized that I had poor ground wire connections in both sockets, I realized why there was aluminum foil in the original socket that I took off. I still couldn't get the marker lights to come on consistently, so I sinned like there was no tomorrow. I put aluminum foil back into both sockets where the ground wire connects. I then put a zip tie around each socket so that the ground wire was being squeezed into place.
So the good news from today is that both marker lights come on now:
Some other good news is that I finished getting the driver's side glass installed:
Unfortunately, the bad news from today outweighs the good:
So the good news from today is that both marker lights come on now:
Some other good news is that I finished getting the driver's side glass installed:
Unfortunately, the bad news from today outweighs the good:
- My blinkers no longer work (at all).
- My windshield wiper reservoir has a hole in it. Found that out the hard way.
- My passenger-side window glass is separating from the metal track at the base of the glass (that slides onto the wheels).
- My positive battery cable wire (that attaches to the post) is severely damaged and about to break.
- I couldn't drive it because my battery didn't have enough juice to start the truck.
check the fuse for turn signals 1st thing. If good, try your hazards if hazards work switch flasher, cans turn sig for hazard can. If turn sigs start working get a new flasher.
the glass coming out of sash can be reattached with https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK?th=1. You have to pull the glass out remove the sash and clean all the old glue out.
new battery cable and invest in a battery maintainer. Or disconnect the neg for more than a week storage.
the glass coming out of sash can be reattached with https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK?th=1. You have to pull the glass out remove the sash and clean all the old glue out.
new battery cable and invest in a battery maintainer. Or disconnect the neg for more than a week storage.
Last edited:
I'm out looking at this thing and I'm in a weird position... the 15A fuse in the "Turn B/U" slot is fine. My hazards work great. So I switched the flashers. No change. The hazards still work great but neither turn signal will come on. No click at all.
This might be a stupid question but I've got 2057 bulbs in there. They're rated at 14V, 6.7W. I think the correct bulb is 1157. Those are rated at 14V, 8.3W. Would the wattage difference make any difference?
This might be a stupid question but I've got 2057 bulbs in there. They're rated at 14V, 6.7W. I think the correct bulb is 1157. Those are rated at 14V, 8.3W. Would the wattage difference make any difference?
