Good time to upgrade back to the factory style side terminal cables and battery.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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How went the bone yard trip, what treasure did you get??
Inquiring minds have to know
Inquiring minds have to know
The battery should read 12.4 at rest when the truck isn't running.
We both got some goods. I ended up with the brake booster for my 2wd S10, an evap canister and vent valve off of another s10 for my K5, a rear brake line for Larry's Suburban and a window for one of his Nissans.
I picked up a bunch of odds and ends for my K30 and some other things for my girlfriend's XJ. It was a great haul. I was really surprised with how much we were able to get.
K30:
K30:
- Tailgate bracket / arm
- Sun visors
- Windshield wiper fluid reservoir
- Headlight adjustment screw clip thing
- Miscellaneous hardware
- Oil pressure sensor
- Oil pressure electrical connector
- Windshield wiper fluid pump
- Miscellaneous hardware
Thanks Scott! I'll take a reading tonight. I am going to try and get a bunch of these little junkyard pieces installed after work.
Anytime dude. Sucked there were only 3 squares in the whole yard. But that's the way it is now. I forgot to mention that I pulled the shift lever for the 208 out of the K20 you found. I wanted to have one to experiment with for reversing the orientation.
I pulled the battery cable on Tuesday night. I knew the head / connector was cracked, but I did not realize it had fully split. Along with the split connector I found an opening in the casing for my alternator cable. Here are a few pics... it was definitely time for replacement.
@mrk5 I took a quick measurement on the battery with the cables disconnected. Earlier in the thread you menionted it should be about 12.4V without the truck running, hopefully measuring the voltage with nothing attached to the battery is an adequate test. I came up with right about 12.4V so that's good I suppose.
When shopping for a new battery cable, I knew I needed something that was right at about 60 inches long. I ended up picking a 72" battery cable that is slightly thicker than my old one. I think the old one would be 4 awg and this new one is 2 awg. Hopefully that's a good thing or at least is a-okay. I'm going to install it tonight.
@mrk5 I took a quick measurement on the battery with the cables disconnected. Earlier in the thread you menionted it should be about 12.4V without the truck running, hopefully measuring the voltage with nothing attached to the battery is an adequate test. I came up with right about 12.4V so that's good I suppose.
When shopping for a new battery cable, I knew I needed something that was right at about 60 inches long. I ended up picking a 72" battery cable that is slightly thicker than my old one. I think the old one would be 4 awg and this new one is 2 awg. Hopefully that's a good thing or at least is a-okay. I'm going to install it tonight.
the alt wire looks melted . i never liked them tiny molded in ends for the alt lead .
if possible make a bigger wire from the alt post to the battery post . maybe if you can use your old cable and cut off the bad head end and crip a eye let on it and use it .
and 12.4 that battery needs a charge up . standing battery volts is 12.6 at full charge .
if possible make a bigger wire from the alt post to the battery post . maybe if you can use your old cable and cut off the bad head end and crip a eye let on it and use it .
and 12.4 that battery needs a charge up . standing battery volts is 12.6 at full charge .
That 2ga will work fine. Take your time and route the cable away from any heat. Being esp careful around/at the starter.
So to be clear, the 10ga wire spliced into cable fed your alternator ? The alt should have battery powers from the loom, which is on of the fuse links at the starter. While you are there inspect the fuse links carefully. 1 maybe blown and the extra wire at battery might have been someones incorrect fix.
don't use the pig tail on new battery cable, unless you wish to feed an accessory, that has it's own circuit protection.
12.6volts is fully charged battery, 2.1v per cell
So to be clear, the 10ga wire spliced into cable fed your alternator ? The alt should have battery powers from the loom, which is on of the fuse links at the starter. While you are there inspect the fuse links carefully. 1 maybe blown and the extra wire at battery might have been someones incorrect fix.
don't use the pig tail on new battery cable, unless you wish to feed an accessory, that has it's own circuit protection.
12.6volts is fully charged battery, 2.1v per cell
Yep, both readings (truck running and truck off) were ~12.4V. That makes sense that the alternator isn't charging... and it explains why I can only get about 2-3 cranks on the battery before it dies out on me.
Yep, the pigtail / fusible link coming off of the positive battery cable went to here on my alternator:
Is there any harm in reconnecting it the way it was? I will still take a peek at the fusible links down by the starter... just wasn't sure what this pigtail wire was being used for and am curious if I need it for something.
I guess it could be an interesting test to get it all connected and then take a voltage reading at the battery terminals with the truck running. If it is > 12.4V, I could then remove the cable at the alternator and retry the test. That could prove that the PO was using it to charge the battery... which may also prove that the fusible links at the starter are kaput.
Sometimes..... don't ask me why somebody else knows I'm sure, you have to "excite" the alternator by revving the engine up a little after initial startup to get it to charge correctly. If still low voltage, with the engine running tap on the alternator with a small hammer and test again.
Is the belt tight?
Is the belt tight?
Ca we get a picture or the wires on battery lug of the starter.
I just traced out part of my alt battery circuit, and it feeds at least the dome, courtesy fuse, and lights.
If you have problems with any of these it is a clue
I just traced out part of my alt battery circuit, and it feeds at least the dome, courtesy fuse, and lights.
If you have problems with any of these it is a clue
From memory: the 2 fusible link ones that attach to the starter split off, one goes to alt the other goes to junc block on firewall. Small purple wire goes to small stud closest to engine.
Disclamer: I'm old.
Disclamer: I'm old.
The alternator in Dad’s Elky is a little slow to get charging. When I started it today it was showing under 13 on the gauge. Once I was driving it today it perked up and showing above 13 on the gauge.
You could run a wire direct to the battery from the charging post to see if the results change.
The other problem I've seen people have is with the sensing wire that tells the alternator it needs to charge. You could try running a separate sensing wire to the battery to see if that makes a difference.
The other problem I've seen people have is with the sensing wire that tells the alternator it needs to charge. You could try running a separate sensing wire to the battery to see if that makes a difference.
Those 10/12SI alternators aren't wired that way. It needs power on both of the terminals in the small plug, BUT one has to have less voltage than the other ( battery voltage). I know that sometimes just the bulb in the charge light makes enough resistance to make it charge, but I may be remembering it incorrectly.
Yeah.
I believe the sense wire started with the CS series
