You can get sockets for those. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-13250-Pressure-Switch-Socket/dp/B0002SR2RY Not sure what size yours is. I had to get one for my son's 72 Skylark because it was fighting me.
CK5
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Yes that is the ball I was talking about. I was expecting it to be on the other side. I see only 1 nipple, so the capped nipple on check valve will connect to the ball.
The switch needs a special socket, I can sometimes get them with an open end wrench. If this one is giving you grief, get the socket.
The wiring insulation is not a huge concern. Clean it up, with brake clean or electrical contact cleaner, and tape it up with some good black electric tape, 3M would be my go to.
Sometimes taking a slow measure assessment is the best path. I wouldn't worry to much about the OEM vacuum routing. You need vacuum advance for distributor, the HVAC vacuum, minimum. The egr well not till you need to meet smog inspection requirements.
Having a working vapor canister is nice, helps with the gas fumes.
The switch needs a special socket, I can sometimes get them with an open end wrench. If this one is giving you grief, get the socket.
The wiring insulation is not a huge concern. Clean it up, with brake clean or electrical contact cleaner, and tape it up with some good black electric tape, 3M would be my go to.
Sometimes taking a slow measure assessment is the best path. I wouldn't worry to much about the OEM vacuum routing. You need vacuum advance for distributor, the HVAC vacuum, minimum. The egr well not till you need to meet smog inspection requirements.
Having a working vapor canister is nice, helps with the gas fumes.
Different years, the ball moved. My 83 is one side, 84 is other. I think the other nipple is on the bottom of the ball
Be careful with that junction block. There are lots of stories of people breaking off the fitting from the head. I have good luck using channel-locks on sensors like that.
If I was repairing the switch connector, I would just buy two new terminals, extract the old terminals from the connector (with a pick tool), cut the wires a little shorter, crimp on new terminals and re-insert. That should be good-as-new if you have the slack in wire to do it. You can splice a new pigtail on, but that's extra potential failure points. There is also a product called liquid electrical tape, which could work well here.
But why do you have to replace the switch and the sender? I would keep working OEM ahead of playing parts store roulette with new parts.
Oil pressure gauge is inaccurate.
I believe the single female spade is molded into the boot.
Packard connector is repairable.
I believe the single female spade is molded into the boot.
Packard connector is repairable.
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F***
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Damnit.
My only idea so far is to put a bolt into the hole where the last part of the junction block is. I was thinking I could put some red loctite on the threads. Let it sit overnight. Try and loosen it tomorrow and get the last of the junction block out with the bolt. Something like this.
I don't know. I tried chiseling it out with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer for a while and got nowhere. The junction block was spinning freely when it was still one piece... I am surprised that I can't get this last bit to spin out.
My only idea so far is to put a bolt into the hole where the last part of the junction block is. I was thinking I could put some red loctite on the threads. Let it sit overnight. Try and loosen it tomorrow and get the last of the junction block out with the bolt. Something like this.
I don't know. I tried chiseling it out with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer for a while and got nowhere. The junction block was spinning freely when it was still one piece... I am surprised that I can't get this last bit to spin out.
Wait which part broke?
Did it break off in the block?
Did it break off in the block?
Ok I see from other pic. So that piece is going to be all 1/4" pipe thread.
An extrctor in the piece in the block will remove.
The brass t is find able, might have to order, but not unobtainium.
You should take that into AutoZone napa O'Reilly's and see if they have.
An extrctor in the piece in the block will remove.
The brass t is find able, might have to order, but not unobtainium.
You should take that into AutoZone napa O'Reilly's and see if they have.
This style will work the best.
www.harborfreight.com
I have experience with this set it is a new item at hf, but icon is their best quality.
Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 15 Piece
Amazing deals on this 15Pc Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
I have experience with this set it is a new item at hf, but icon is their best quality.
So the brass t looks like 1/4 male pipe, 1 female 1/4" pipe and 1 female 1/8" pipe.
Little harder to replace but not impossible. If worst case get an all 1/4" that matches and 1/4 to 1/8th" bushing
Little harder to replace but not impossible. If worst case get an all 1/4" that matches and 1/4 to 1/8th" bushing
If it does not come out easy on the first or second try I can try to stop by this weekend and try to help. That brass is soft so an easy out should grab it good. An easy out will have the tendency to push out on the brass, almost making it tighter, patience and finesse are your friend.
Thank you Ron!!
In other words, try not to make it worse then it already is.
Gotta pic of the block/broke fitting?
What’s the cost of the sensor? $30-40? The brass tee is $3 from Home Depot. I say cut the brass tee off with a dremel and if you nick the sensor then buy a new one. I refuse to argue with stuff like this.
I should really read before responding.
