What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
This is completely off-topic from the brass fitting being broken off inside my block.

I just remembered that the PO gave me the original intake and carb when I bought the truck. So I think I have the q-jet in my K30 parts bin somewhere. That's sweet because I can rebuild it and put it back on if I ever get unhappy with this Edelbrock.
 
shima said:
This is completely off-topic from the brass fitting being broken off inside my block.

I just remembered that the PO gave me the original intake and carb when I bought the truck. So I think I have the q-jet in my K30 parts bin somewhere. That's sweet because I can rebuild it and put it back on if I ever get unhappy with this Edelbrock.
Click to expand...
If you want to go through the q-jet we can take it apart and dunk it in the carb dip over here. Easy to do. Plus we can seal up the leaky core plugs in the main body that always leaks.
 
Thanks Rob, that's awesome. I remember hanging out while you were rebuilding one a while ago. It's probably about time I learn about all of the different pieces and whatnot.
 
Those brass fittings come out very easy with an easy out. Shouldn't be hard.

Which intake manifold is on it? The factory cast iron big block intakes are not good. They are designed for hood clearance in a car. Not necessary in a truck. I would definitely put the factory Quadrajet back on, but try to retain the aftermarket intake manifold.

Martin
 
Joywayus Brass Pipe Fitting Barstock Street Tee T 3 way NPT 1/4" Female × 1/4" Female × 1/4" Male Adapter https://a.co/d/

This one has one ¼" male and two ¼" female.

Iirc yours had one ¼" and one ⅛" female.
Those extractors make it look easy don't they.
 
Wes Harden said:
Joywayus Brass Pipe Fitting Barstock Street Tee T 3 way NPT 1/4" Female × 1/4" Female × 1/4" Male Adapter https://a.co/d/

This one has one ¼" male and two ¼" female.

Iirc yours had one ¼" and one ⅛" female.
Those extractors make it look easy don't they.
Click to expand...

You're the man, @Wes Harden. I went out and double-checked and you are right... the switch port is definitely bigger than the sender port. Looks like I need 1/4" male, 1/4" female, and 1/8" female.

Shopping list:
  • New junction block...
  • New switch, because mine is still stuck inside the old junction block (lol)...
  • New sender, because mine was pushing an inaccurate reading...
It looks like there are a lot of options for 1/8" switches on RockAuto. Perhaps if I find a 1/4" male + 1/8" female + 1/8" female junction block then I can go that route. Will do some surfing online.
 
Finally got around to buying the parts...

Picked up the junction block and 1/4"-->1/8" bushings from the jungle website:

1675826453041.png

Picked up the switch, the sender, and two new connectors from RockAuto:

1675826361370.png

The new sender and switch use a blade style connector, so I picked up two of those. The connectors each have two wires on them. This matches up fine for the switch, but my sender used to just have one wire on it. Can I just leave the ground wire on this new connector disconnected (open) or should I ground it?

I may be able to re-use my original connector for the sender. Will try that out first.
 
82355 said:
Those brass fittings come out very easy with an easy out. Shouldn't be hard.

Which intake manifold is on it? The factory cast iron big block intakes are not good. They are designed for hood clearance in a car. Not necessary in a truck. I would definitely put the factory Quadrajet back on, but try to retain the aftermarket intake manifold.

Martin
Click to expand...

Sorry for not responding earlier, Martin. It has a Weiand Street Warrior on it.
 
New junction block finally came in the mail yesterday.

PXL_20230214_172627930.jpg

I should have everything I need to get going on it now.

I think I am going to have to MacGyver a little bit of electrical... I'm terrible with electrical so don't laugh too hard when you read this...
  • My old switch is still stuck inside the old junction block, so I had to get a new switch.
    • The new switch uses a blade style connector instead of a plug-in connector.
  • My old sender was bad, so I obviously got a new sender.
    • The new sender uses a blade style connector just like the old sender.
  • I couldn't find blade style connectors that looked like the one that was on my truck (connected to the old sender). So I bought two of these connectors to try and make it work. Unfortunately they are dual-terminal instead of single-terminal and unfortunately the rubber boot on them is far too large.
I think what I'm going to have to do is:
  • Remove both wires from the new connectors. Toss the rubber boots.
  • For connecting the new switch:
    • Snip the two old wires that were part of the plug style connector.
    • Find the positive cable out of those two and solder one of the new wires in with the blade connector on it. Connect that to the new switch.
    • Find the negative cable out of those two and just ground it out somewhere.
  • For connecting the new sender:
    • Re-use the old connector if possible.
    • If replacing the old connector...
      • Snip the old wire that was part of the old connector.
      • Solder one of the new wires in with the blade connector on it. Connect that to the new sender.
 
I am confused. Can you post pictures of each new sender/switch and the current on the truck connectors.
My advice would be limit the number of splices if the the wire on the loom is long enough add a new terminal and some heat shrink.
I be more accurate when I understand better the task at hand.
I am surprised you couldn't find the sender with correct terminals.
Sometime GM changes the terminals on similar senders with different specs
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom