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1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Blue85 said:
I missed the part where fuel delivery was suspect. What are the symptoms? One idea is to just disconnect at the carb, unplug the dizzy, hit the starter and see how much fuel dumps into a can. Do you have a gauge to check pressure?
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With honesty, this change is motivated mainly from a "routine maintenance" point of view. The fuel filter has never been changed under my ownership, so I just want to get it done. However it is true that my truck takes an insanely long time to start after sitting (even for just one day). If I really want it to start, I need to prime the carb with fuel. If I do not do that, then it will crank until the battery dies. I've always thought that this is a combination of (big block) + (parasitic draw) + (possibly-weak alternator), but it will be great if I get an improvement out of changing this filter. Needless to say I have a lot of other tasks ahead of me after changing the filter. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, but I can rent one. That's a good idea in general just to see where I'm at.

mrk5 said:
Okay, the video worked tonight! That's actually a really nice setup. It does look like an adapter was added to the fuel pump. You could get AN to barbed adapter for the pump.

I'd encourage you to keep it, but I understand I'd you want to do it how you'd like.
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The motivation to change it to (rubber line) + (clear plastic filter) was 100% Vice Grip Garage. I watch all of his videos and am a huge fan of his. He has said in multiple videos that this type of filter can be problematic because you cannot see into it, they get clogged up, they leak and can start a fire, etc. I know that I will stay on top of changing the fuel filter at the suggested interval, so perhaps it's not a real risk for it to get clogged up or leak. Also seeing you guys say that this fuel line setup is pretty nice is great because I trust you all more than any YouTuber. I'll keep the setup as-is and will just change out the Russell filter with a new one. This is a pretty stupid question, but do you all know if I have to run another Russell or if I can just search for a generic in-line fuel filter and likely find another one that will fit?
 
Just need the same AN fittings on new filter.

If you still want to replace fuel hose start at the tank. A small crack or split at a hose near the tank can be enough to stop the pump from drawing gas from the tank at cranking speed, but still allow gas to be drawn up at running speed.

Though the carb should not be loosing/evaporating gas from the bowl on same day starts. Might be an issue with carb. If you had a Q jet, the well plugs could be resealed. EB AFB I am not sure
 
shima said:
With honesty, this change is motivated mainly from a "routine maintenance" point of view. The fuel filter has never been changed under my ownership, so I just want to get it done. However it is true that my truck takes an insanely long time to start after sitting (even for just one day). If I really want it to start, I need to prime the carb with fuel. If I do not do that, then it will crank until the battery dies. I've always thought that this is a combination of (big block) + (parasitic draw) + (possibly-weak alternator), but it will be great if I get an improvement out of changing this filter. Needless to say I have a lot of other tasks ahead of me after changing the filter. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, but I can rent one. That's a good idea in general just to see where I'm at.


The motivation to change it to (rubber line) + (clear plastic filter) was 100% Vice Grip Garage. I watch all of his videos and am a huge fan of his. He has said in multiple videos that this type of filter can be problematic because you cannot see into it, they get clogged up, they leak and can start a fire, etc. I know that I will stay on top of changing the fuel filter at the suggested interval, so perhaps it's not a real risk for it to get clogged up or leak. Also seeing you guys say that this fuel line setup is pretty nice is great because I trust you all more than any YouTuber. I'll keep the setup as-is and will just change out the Russell filter with a new one. This is a pretty stupid question, but do you all know if I have to run another Russell or if I can just search for a generic in-line fuel filter and likely find another one that will fit?
Click to expand...
Like @Wes Harden harden said, just search for new filters with male -6 AN fittings at each end.

There is value in doing things in such a way that you will be better about keeping up with maintenance. No more than you drive this truck, you shouldn't need to change the filter. If it is getting dirty quick, then you need to take care of the fuel tank or the fuel lines on the frame. Most likely it would be the tank.
 
Dang, it has been a while since I've updated the thread. I got the fuel filter changed with another Russell back in November. I haven't driven the K30 much since then, but I am happy to say that I'm working on it today.

I am trying to finally flip my steering wheel. It was installed upside-down. I got the wheel pulled off without any problem, but I hit a snag pretty quickly and I wanted to see if you all had any advice for me.

Here is what I see after getting the steering wheel off:

PXL_20240309_204620166.MP.jpg

I think that the green circle is for the horn. From looking at other squarebody videos on YouTube, I think that green circle piece is supposed to be at 11 o'clock instead of 5 o'clock. I can't put my steering wheel back on rightside-up because of that.

The previous owner told me that this steering column is "non-factory". I can't figure out how to go any further either.

Anybody have an idea on how I can progress?
 
Take the plastic cover off, and check that the lock plate is splined correctly to the steering shaft. You'll see a fat section and then a splined section
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
undo the rag joint; turn 180 degrees, reassemble rag joint
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They are normally keyed with the 2 different bolt sizes, correct?
But the double D at the bottom of the column where it connects to the intermediate shaft will flip, right?

Checking the rag joint for proper installation would be a good thing anyway..
 
I wondered when I posted if they were only keyed one way. been a while since I messed with one.

another option is up the shaft towards the firewall is a coupler with a snap ring; undo the shaft there and pull apart and rotate. if I remember there are 2 square metal pieces on dowels with a lot of grease. pull that apart and rotate 180
 
Dude if you are still working on this by the weekend hit me up. Like others have said it can be fixed pretty easy a couple of ways.
 
Hey, thanks for the responses guys and sorry for going radio-silent... I got distracted with some Jeep work for my girlfriend and had a wild work week.

Wes Harden said:
Take the plastic cover off, and check that the lock plate is splined correctly to the steering shaft. You'll see a fat section and then a splined section
Click to expand...

I got that plastic cover off. Feel like an idiot for not noticing that I could just pry those tabs out of the way. Here is what I see with that cover off:

PXL_20240310_022657158.jpg

I did some research and it looks like if I wanted to continue this way then I could remove the snap ring from the center. That would allow the metal plate to be removed. From there I could flip the metal plate and the green plastic piece behind it and reinstall everything. I found a video on YouTube of a guy doing it but he used a puller-type tool to keep the metal plate out of the way while he worked on the snap ring. I guess the spring behind that plate is pretty strong?

6872xtc said:
They are normally keyed with the 2 different bolt sizes, correct?
But the double D at the bottom of the column where it connects to the intermediate shaft will flip, right?

Checking the rag joint for proper installation would be a good thing anyway..
Click to expand...

fourwheelerjeff said:
I wondered when I posted if they were only keyed one way. been a while since I messed with one.

another option is up the shaft towards the firewall is a coupler with a snap ring; undo the shaft there and pull apart and rotate. if I remember there are 2 square metal pieces on dowels with a lot of grease. pull that apart and rotate 180
Click to expand...

I took a look at my column and tried to find the double-D where it connects to the intermediate shaft. Is that different from the coupler with the snap ring? I think I could probably figure out how to disassemble that stuff and get it back together if that's easier than continuing inside the cab.

82355 said:
Is you steering even?

Martin
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It is even, but it is way too loose... @Bent77 told me to pursue getting it tightened up forever ago when we hung out. I was considering doing the steering box approach where you barely tighten a screw(?) or something like that. But I decided to tackle flipping the steering wheel first because my dumb a** thought that flipping the steering wheel was as easy as pull-flip-reinstall.

ZooMad75 said:
Dude if you are still working on this by the weekend hit me up. Like others have said it can be fixed pretty easy a couple of ways.
Click to expand...

I am back at it this weekend, text me if you're around man! I also owe you a visit, gotta check out your new spot.
 
That plate is key spline to plate and only goes on 1 way. That said I have seen it forced on with out matching the key spline I can't see the splines but I don't think it is wrong.

The rag joint end is d splined and only fits 1 way, the upper end by your brake booster, has a slip cup with 2 groves the cross pin on the intermediate shat slide into. The cup is splined on to the steering column shaft, one of these 2 could possibly 180° out.
 
Woke up this morning and remembered that I have an old XJ steering shaft sitting in the garage. Now is probably the time to put that in.
 
If your column has the correct end. Mine is the large one, does match the xj end. Fingers crossed
 
shima said:
I am back at it this weekend, text me if you're around man! I also owe you a visit, gotta check out your new spot.
Click to expand...
I'm caught up on stuff I had to get done this weekend except for my weekly fleecing at the grocery store in the morning. If you are working on the truck tomorrow, let me know I can swing by. My sister found your coffee cup at my folks house cleaning the kitchen. I can bring it to you.
 
Happy Friday guys!

Been slowly working on the K30...
  • Got the pinch bolt undone on the double-D side of the shaft. Couldn't slip it off on that side so moved toward the box side of the shaft.
  • Didn't have 12-point sockets, so went shopping for those and picked up a couple of sets from HF.
After HF I stopped by @ZooMad75's new spot Wednesday night and he hooked me up with:
  • The little pin and spring that slides into the horn "tube" inside the steering column.
  • A new grille for my Blazer (mine makes the Blazer look like it is missing a tooth).
  • A whole lot of helpful advice and teachings. Some good stories to boot.
Last night, I took my steering wheel apart again so that I could get that pin in there for the horn. I couldn't get it to "lock into place" without pulling the steering wheel, so I ran off to AutoZone to rent the puller again. When trying to push the pin in, my horn honked a few times... so I think that was all that was missing.

Tonight I hope to get in there and pull the steering wheel so that I can get the pin locked into place. Then I'm going to undo the rag joint side and try getting the old intermediate shaft out. After that I'm going to try installing the XJ shaft I have. One thing I really need to remember to do is pull the truck in completely straight so that it's easier to line up the steering wheel...
 
just some info Autozone rents the tools for the purchase price. If you feel the rented tool should be in your tool collection you don't have to return. I needed a different style coil spring compressor one time. I check out the used rent decided it would do what I wanted. Ask if they had a new one, cause I was going to keep it, they got a new one out for me.
 
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