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1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Got the XJ shaft into place!

PXL_20240418_032843172.jpg

PXL_20240418_032852675.jpg

Filing on the column side was a bit of a b****, because I don't own a dremel. Just filed it by hand. Luckily you don't have to take off much for the bolt to slide through.

My steering wheel is back on straight, which makes me happy. I tried the horn and it didn't work, which was weird (it worked when I was fussing with it prior)... but I don't care much. I'll figure that out another day.

I haven't gone for a test drive yet, but I am going to bring it over to @ZooMad75's tomorrow after work to help him move some stuff. That will be a nice drive - it hasn't been driven much since last year. I'll use that drive to figure out if I have the steering wheel on perfectly straight or not.

After getting the XJ shaft installed, I did a parasitic draw test using this video. A while back I was convinced that I had a parasitic draw. The PO had a head unit installed that was wired directly into the fuse box. I took all of that stuff out last summer and luckily the truck passed the parasitic draw test tonight. I measured just 1.X mA when connecting the meter in series.

After that, I wanted to test my alternator. I tried this Vice Grip Garage trick and the truck stayed running:

View attachment PXL_20240418_032203206.mp4

So overall I am pretty happy and am excited to drive the truck tomorrow. It will be a great help this summer, because I want to pick up some stuff for the yard and I need to drop off a bunch of old scrap metal.

Thanks to everyone who reads my thread, I appreciate you all.
 
Glad you got your wheel on straight, and that your draw test passed. Since you have a volt meter to do the draw test use it to test alt charging. you want to see 1volt over battery voltage minimum at 2000 rpm. So the pull the negative post while running trick works. It is not best practice. While your K5 is old enough to survive many modern cars could have serious issues. Including smoking the ecm, or just popping fuses if the system was designed well.
 
I tried testing fuel pressure on the K30 last night. I rented the kit from AutoZone but for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get it hooked up. I had thought it would be great to plug in right between the fuel filter and the carb. My fuel filter is 6 AN on both sides. Nothing inside the AutoZone kit would screw into my hoses. I might need to pick up an adapter.

Since that was the case, I tried this test that @Blue85 suggested a while back:
Blue85 said:
I missed the part where fuel delivery was suspect. What are the symptoms? One idea is to just disconnect at the carb, unplug the dizzy, hit the starter and see how much fuel dumps into a can. Do you have a gauge to check pressure?
Click to expand...

I disconnected the hose going into my fuel filter and just stuck it into a Tupperware container that had measurement marks on the side of it. I cranked for about 4 seconds and roughly 50 mL of gas came out. It works out to roughly 3.5 tablespoons. In all honesty I have no idea whether that is normal or not. I'm gonna try and find an adapter that will let me plug in this gauge so that I can get a PSI value.
 
I am thinking it's the original that came with the truck. Looks to match the pictures in my Haynes manual. Basic mechanical.
 
So what symptom are you having that is leading you to check the fuel pump? Not to second guess, but mechanical pumps work or they don't. If it's not delivering enough fuel you'll have starvation issues under load, if not stalling. If that is happening I wouldn't try testing, I'd just get a pump. Keep in mind if you have any rotten fuel hoses between the pump and tank, the pump might be sucking air and losing its prime. Rather than focusing on pressure, if the gauge you got also reads vacuum I'd hook it up to the inlet side of the pump and see what it pulls. If it's at or around 10 inches of mercury, the pump is pulling fine. If it's pulling well enough but starving for fuel or struggling to maintain prime after shutting off, it's probably a cracked rubber hose somewhere between the tank and pump.

A quick example I experienced: My father-in-law's old Pontiac had a hard time starting years ago and he had a habit of dumping gas down the carb to get it to start. Once it got running enough to pull fuel it would stay running and not have any problems. But if you let it sit for a few hours or more it would lose prime on the pump and he'd go through the routine again. I was scratching my head after looking it and reached out to my Dad for advice. Without hesitation, he pointed me to check the vacuum at the pump. Sure enough, it was pulling just fine, which was supported by the fact it ran ok once you could get it started. So I started crawling around under the car and found the crispiest hose where the fuel line went from the tank to the hard line at the frame rail. It had multiple cracks clean through and original to the car from 1977. I swapped in some fresh hose there and where the hose was from the frame to the fuel pump inlet and it started pretty reliably after that.
 
ZooMad75 said:
So what symptom are you having that is leading you to check the fuel pump? Not to second guess, but mechanical pumps work or they don't. If it's not delivering enough fuel you'll have starvation issues under load, if not stalling. If that is happening I wouldn't try testing, I'd just get a pump. Keep in mind if you have any rotten fuel hoses between the pump and tank, the pump might be sucking air and losing its prime. Rather than focusing on pressure, if the gauge you got also reads vacuum I'd hook it up to the inlet side of the pump and see what it pulls. If it's at or around 10 inches of mercury, the pump is pulling fine. If it's pulling well enough but starving for fuel or struggling to maintain prime after shutting off, it's probably a cracked rubber hose somewhere between the tank and pump.

A quick example I experienced: My father-in-law's old Pontiac had a hard time starting years ago and he had a habit of dumping gas down the carb to get it to start. Once it got running enough to pull fuel it would stay running and not have any problems. But if you let it sit for a few hours or more it would lose prime on the pump and he'd go through the routine again. I was scratching my head after looking it and reached out to my Dad for advice. Without hesitation, he pointed me to check the vacuum at the pump. Sure enough, it was pulling just fine, which was supported by the fact it ran ok once you could get it started. So I started crawling around under the car and found the crispiest hose where the fuel line went from the tank to the hard line at the frame rail. It had multiple cracks clean through and original to the car from 1977. I swapped in some fresh hose there and where the hose was from the frame to the fuel pump inlet and it started pretty reliably after that.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much Rob. The way you describe that Pontiac is pretty much exactly what I'm experiencing with the K30. It's been mentioned that it could be the gas evaporating from the carb, but it seems like it happens so fast.

The next time I drive the truck, I do want to get it out onto the highway and see if it stumbles when I really get on the gas. I do think that has happened a few times in the past.

I have a vacuum gauge in the garage. I'll check the inlet side ASAP.
 
shima said:
Thanks so much Rob. The way you describe that Pontiac is pretty much exactly what I'm experiencing with the K30. It's been mentioned that it could be the gas evaporating from the carb, but it seems like it happens so fast.

The next time I drive the truck, I do want to get it out onto the highway and see if it stumbles when I really get on the gas. I do think that has happened a few times in the past.

I have a vacuum gauge in the garage. I'll check the inlet side ASAP.
Click to expand...
Cool. Let me know if you need help with it.
 
I love this thing, but sometimes I hate this thing.

Took the K30 over to Rob's on Tuesday last week to hang out. Got there fine, and the truck started up fine when I was heading home. No issues.

It was parked in front of my house until yesterday. I put a little gas into the carb and got it fired up. I threw my girlfriend's old bicycle into the bed along with some old bike parts. We intended to go donate everything at a non-profit not too far from our house.

First, we went to Costco so that I could fill up gas. I checked the alternator gauge while driving there and it was pegged at 13V. I kept the truck running while filling up gas. Finally we shut it off so that we could walk inside Costco. It had been running for 30+ mins when I finally shut it off. We were in the store for less than 20 minutes.

When trying to fire up the truck to leave Costco, it just wouldn't fire. I cranked on it for maybe 6 seconds and got nothing. So I tried adding a little more gas into the carb. Looking back on it, that could have been a mistake. Anyhow, I cranked on it again for another six seconds. Nothing. I was so frustrated because the engine was piping hot... I had thought there would be no issues with it firing up.

The third time I cranked, I could hear the starter slowing down and the battery basically died. We had to borrow a jump box from the tire center at Costco to get it going again.

What really gets me is that the battery is a new 800 CCA. I bought it about two weeks ago. It was absolutely wild how fast the battery was killed from cranking the engine over. I watch shows like VGG where he's cranking forever before worrying about the battery. Mine dies after no time and it just kills the driveability of the truck.
  • I know that I need to check my timing. I think it's at 6 degrees advanced and you all have taught me that big blocks like even more advanced timing than that sometimes.
  • I am going to double-check my alternator. The gauge showed 13 but I'll use a voltmeter the next time I get the truck fully up to operating temp.
  • I am considering getting a new starter for a few reasons:
    • If I remember right, the PO of the K30 wasn't sure whether the starter that's on this truck is correct. I have been trying to mess with the shims because it grinds / makes awful noises fairly commonly when I'm trying to start the truck.
    • I read the mini starter thread and most people seem to love them. While messing with the shims, I was dying trying to muscle the starter into place. It would be nice to have a lighter unit.
    • It almost feels like the starter is draining my battery or something - like it's sucking the life out of the thing. I don't know if that's possible but I'd feel good about just getting rid of this old thing and having a chance to install a brand new unit.
 
shima said:
I love this thing, but sometimes I hate this thing.

Took the K30 over to Rob's on Tuesday last week to hang out. Got there fine, and the truck started up fine when I was heading home. No issues.

It was parked in front of my house until yesterday. I put a little gas into the carb and got it fired up. I threw my girlfriend's old bicycle into the bed along with some old bike parts. We intended to go donate everything at a non-profit not too far from our house.

First, we went to Costco so that I could fill up gas. I checked the alternator gauge while driving there and it was pegged at 13V. I kept the truck running while filling up gas. Finally we shut it off so that we could walk inside Costco. It had been running for 30+ mins when I finally shut it off. We were in the store for less than 20 minutes.

When trying to fire up the truck to leave Costco, it just wouldn't fire. I cranked on it for maybe 6 seconds and got nothing. So I tried adding a little more gas into the carb. Looking back on it, that could have been a mistake. Anyhow, I cranked on it again for another six seconds. Nothing. I was so frustrated because the engine was piping hot... I had thought there would be no issues with it firing up.

The third time I cranked, I could hear the starter slowing down and the battery basically died. We had to borrow a jump box from the tire center at Costco to get it going again.

What really gets me is that the battery is a new 800 CCA. I bought it about two weeks ago. It was absolutely wild how fast the battery was killed from cranking the engine over. I watch shows like VGG where he's cranking forever before worrying about the battery. Mine dies after no time and it just kills the driveability of the truck.
  • I know that I need to check my timing. I think it's at 6 degrees advanced and you all have taught me that big blocks like even more advanced timing than that sometimes.
  • I am going to double-check my alternator. The gauge showed 13 but I'll use a voltmeter the next time I get the truck fully up to operating temp.
  • I am considering getting a new starter for a few reasons:
    • If I remember right, the PO of the K30 wasn't sure whether the starter that's on this truck is correct. I have been trying to mess with the shims because it grinds / makes awful noises fairly commonly when I'm trying to start the truck.
    • I read the mini starter thread and most people seem to love them. While messing with the shims, I was dying trying to muscle the starter into place. It would be nice to have a lighter unit.
    • It almost feels like the starter is draining my battery or something - like it's sucking the life out of the thing. I don't know if that's possible but I'd feel good about just getting rid of this old thing and having a chance to install a brand new unit.
Click to expand...
The starter is definitely draining your battery, a switch to the mini starter is definitely a good move.
It doesn't mean you shouldn't look at the other issues.
Definitely check the alternator, you should see closer to 14v after a few minutes.
Same with timing, that could put a lot of strain on the battery
 
3 6 second cranks should not drain a good battery.
I think adding fuel at Costco was a mistake, probably a hot soak condition.

help id the starter big block should have 168 tooth flywheel.
flex plate id.jpg

Starter bolts straight across 153 tooth
On a diagonal 168 tooth
 
folkenheath said:
Are you sure you have solid clean connections to the starter and engine block and at the battery terminals? Bad connections can make a battery seem weak or dead when it's not..
Click to expand...
Also check the cables at the connector.
I had some in my big rig that were corroded and were getting hot within a few seconds and stop cranking
 
I had a nice time cruising around town in the K30 tonight. It had not moved since 6/4, and I got in it tonight to move it for the street sweeper. When unlocking it, I saw that there were cobwebs on it and that was enough for me to want to take it to the car wash.

I can't believe I'm typing this but it started on its own without me priming the carb with gas. I pulled the choke, cranked on it for a while, stomped on the gas pedal a few times, and then repeated... repeated... repeated... and it started up during the fourth crank. I thought the battery was going to die but it didn't. I couldn't believe it.

Here's a picture of it after being sprayed down for the first time in a loooooong time:

PXL_20240702_002821715.jpg

I kept it running while I sprayed it down at the car wash. After that though we rolled by the parts store to return a thread-restorer kit that I had borrowed for working on my K5. I shut it off before walking into the store. It fired back up without issue and we drove across town to a buddy's place so that I could borrow a tent for an upcoming camping trip. Again, I shut it off and when leaving it started up fine.

Drove it home and got it parked on the opposite side of the street along with the rest of the fleet. It was a nice night and I was thankful for the truck because it really treated me well.

PXL_20240702_015740018.jpg

PXL_20240702_022834251.MP.jpg

The only vehicle missing from that pic is my current problem child, the K5. It will be back on the road soon though.
 
I drove the K30 last night because I wanted to get the tires pumped up and for it to be back in the garage. I'm starting to load it up with a bunch of scrap metal and donation items.

Holy s*** I need to bleed my clutch. I have known this for a while but have been putting it off... ain't gonna do that any longer. It is hot as hell in Denver right now and when driving it yesterday it was probably 96* or so outside. The clutch pedal just went to the floor on me a few times and I actually killed it in the gas station parking lot because it wouldn't come out of gear when hitting the pedal. Thankfully I was able to just "try again" each time that happened and it eventually worked each time.

I'm gonna look into bleeding and get it done before driving it again. If anyone has tips, let me know. Also... the hose going from the reservoir where you put fluid in... mine is really beaten up (dry and cracked). It doesn't leak to my knowledge... but could it be sucking air in through the hose when I hit the clutch pedal? Hopefully that question isn't as dumb as I think it might be.

Anybody ever run fuel line for this connection? I have some in the garage but am not sure if it is okay to use with brake fluid. I found an old thread on it, but can't tell if there is a definitive answer. It looks like it might be best to get clutch-specific line (or brake hose)?

Pics of the line on my K30:

PXL_20240712_184344072.jpg

PXL_20240712_184351843.jpg
 
Brake fluid is fancy hydraulic oil. Has different additives.
If the hose is oil rated it should be fine.
 
Wes Harden said:
Brake fluid is fancy hydraulic oil. Has different additives.
If the hose is oil rated it should be fine.
Click to expand...

I've been shopping around for brake fluid hose, and all of the options online have fittings on each end... I guess I could just cut 'em off...

It looks like I can get 3/8" transmission cooler hose at my local parts store for $2.99 per foot. Seems a decent option so long as you all think it would work.
 
I might be wrong but I'm thinking it is smaller then 3/8 id. I put new line on the Crawlabago and I got it from NAPA. It was red and I thought it looked funky so I covered it in plastic split loom.

1723162635227.png
 
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