Went and tested some flex to see if the new tires would rub. Didn't go good. I ended up cutting 5" off the bottom of the fenders and tapering back to the stock arch. I was able to shape the inner fender back in pretty well. I think it came out good
CK5
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1988 gmc 2500 overland build
- Thread starter kbclamper
- Start date
I finally got around to installing my hydro assist in hopes of curing my death wobble. While cycling the steering its seems the ram has more travel than the steering stops allow. Can i adjust them for more angle without breaking joints?
The axle is a dodge d60 with yukon axles and spicer joints
The axle is a dodge d60 with yukon axles and spicer joints
I believe you'll need to limit the ram internally. How much more travel does the ram have vs the axle?
I'm sure you can adjust the stops for a little more angle but where's the line for breaking joints? I've seen high end aftermarket axles/joints that list greater turning angle but I don't think I've ever read a max steering angle for a stock joint.
Something else to consider is the knuckles themselves, if the ram is still pushing when you've hit the axle stops it's going to want to break the steering arm studs or the bed they screw into.
I'm sure you can adjust the stops for a little more angle but where's the line for breaking joints? I've seen high end aftermarket axles/joints that list greater turning angle but I don't think I've ever read a max steering angle for a stock joint.
Something else to consider is the knuckles themselves, if the ram is still pushing when you've hit the axle stops it's going to want to break the steering arm studs or the bed they screw into.
What's the specs on the ram? There are bolts in the rear of the knuckle to adjust turning radius but I would be careful because it can break ujoints and shafts, or the knuckle if it pushes to far.
Have you checked your kingpin bushings, shackle bushings and any other parts in the front for the cause of your dw
Have you checked your kingpin bushings, shackle bushings and any other parts in the front for the cause of your dw
Front axle is completely rebuilt. The kit was from Ord just like everything else on the truck.
Regarding the crossover steering. Crossover steering is one of the best mods I made on my suburban.
Call me if you need someone in the Riverside area who will pass the smog.
I just put the Mickey Thompson EXPs. I am very happy no road noise, over the engine noise. Much better then my previous Mickey Thompson MT Bajas.
I just put the Mickey Thompson EXPs. I am very happy no road noise, over the engine noise. Much better then my previous Mickey Thompson MT Bajas.
I have a Dodge D60 in mine with ORD spec 8.75" PSC cylinder. Looks like you have the same bolts as steering stops that i did.
I ended up cutting/threading in new bolts with shorter lengths until I was getting JUST short of full steering throw with the ORD cylinder. That way the ram isn't using its own body to limit steering travel. No issues with shaft joint angles after doing this.
However, death wobble is not something typically cured by hydraulic assist. I believe i read in your thread you have all new steering also from ORD. So I'm guessing its not in your joints and as long as your alignment is good my next spot I'd be checking is the upper Kingpin area.
I have not had this and still have factory plastic cups with springs but I have read guys getting death wobble once their plastic cones broke/springs wore out. Might be worth a look for yourself. Good luck!
Here's some stuff I wrote up a while back on steering stops:
Steering stop setup:
Reid knuckles require grinding the stops to the right length, if you mess up and go too far:
1: cut them down farther, drill and tap the knuckle and run a bolt for a steering stop, or
2: weld a pad on the axle housing for the knuckle stop to hit or add some weld to the knuckle stop. The knuckles are cast iron but will take a weld good enough to act as a steering stop.
Stock knuckles use a bolt and jam nut style steering stop that can be replaced with a bolt using a solid spacer or combination of spacers. ("Spacers" can mean washers) It can also be replaced with a high grade bolt and jam nut like the factory system but even high grade bolts tend to bend so a solid spacer is a more reliable way to go.
Max steer angle will be limited by something. Generally, this is the binding point of the axle U joints but it could be tire clearance to a spring or link, or even something like the axle shaft hitting the steering knuckle. This is the point at which the steering stops need to engage. Keep in mind that aftermarket axleshafts can often be ground/polished to increase their available steer angle.
At this point, the steering cylinder needs to be timed to the steering stops so the cylinder doesn’t push on the stops. This can stress the knuckles and cause them to break. If the cylinder travel is more than the tierod will travel, the cylinder can be limited internally with a spacer. A cut down shaft clamp or a simple washer can make a decent external limiting spacer too.
ORD steering systems are designed for a tight turning radius and some allowance for compliance in leaf spring suspensions. Ideally the draglink throw will exactly match the steering stop placement and the cylinder throw but with leaf springs the axle’s side to side motion makes it virtually impossible to achieve. A little more throw on the draglink than the rest of the system is better than too little since you don’t want the box to be the limiting factor in your steering angle.
Some care in driving is very helpful in keeping a steering system alive. Holding the steering wheel against the steering stops or against an obstacle that stops the steering system will put the pump in bypass mode and create a lot of heat and angry steering fluid is very hard on pumps. If it won’t steer, don’t force it.
Kind of a repeat of some stuff from above but mostly same ideas. If you have our 1.75 x 8.75 cylinder, you will need to mess with the stops and you'll be glad you did.
How are your ride heights working out now? Adding the D60 and some rear weight probably helped level it some.
Steering stop setup:
Reid knuckles require grinding the stops to the right length, if you mess up and go too far:
1: cut them down farther, drill and tap the knuckle and run a bolt for a steering stop, or
2: weld a pad on the axle housing for the knuckle stop to hit or add some weld to the knuckle stop. The knuckles are cast iron but will take a weld good enough to act as a steering stop.
Stock knuckles use a bolt and jam nut style steering stop that can be replaced with a bolt using a solid spacer or combination of spacers. ("Spacers" can mean washers) It can also be replaced with a high grade bolt and jam nut like the factory system but even high grade bolts tend to bend so a solid spacer is a more reliable way to go.
Max steer angle will be limited by something. Generally, this is the binding point of the axle U joints but it could be tire clearance to a spring or link, or even something like the axle shaft hitting the steering knuckle. This is the point at which the steering stops need to engage. Keep in mind that aftermarket axleshafts can often be ground/polished to increase their available steer angle.
At this point, the steering cylinder needs to be timed to the steering stops so the cylinder doesn’t push on the stops. This can stress the knuckles and cause them to break. If the cylinder travel is more than the tierod will travel, the cylinder can be limited internally with a spacer. A cut down shaft clamp or a simple washer can make a decent external limiting spacer too.
ORD steering systems are designed for a tight turning radius and some allowance for compliance in leaf spring suspensions. Ideally the draglink throw will exactly match the steering stop placement and the cylinder throw but with leaf springs the axle’s side to side motion makes it virtually impossible to achieve. A little more throw on the draglink than the rest of the system is better than too little since you don’t want the box to be the limiting factor in your steering angle.
Some care in driving is very helpful in keeping a steering system alive. Holding the steering wheel against the steering stops or against an obstacle that stops the steering system will put the pump in bypass mode and create a lot of heat and angry steering fluid is very hard on pumps. If it won’t steer, don’t force it.
Kind of a repeat of some stuff from above but mostly same ideas. If you have our 1.75 x 8.75 cylinder, you will need to mess with the stops and you'll be glad you did.
How are your ride heights working out now? Adding the D60 and some rear weight probably helped level it some.
Thank you Stephen. It appears I should take a closer look at my steering setup as it sits right now as well.
Thank you for all the info. Ride height is perfect and the ride is amazing. I will mess with the stops next. I think I have to look into a new pump also. Its a psc stock replacement style but the steering is harder than before the ram unless its revved up.
the king pins were rebuilt when i put the axle in. I havent gotten the wobble since the ram install but can feel it want to start, it just doesn't now.
Rad burb man
Thank you. It gets us where we like to camp
Looking at your camping and scouting pics. Makes me miss Nor Cal…
I wasnt happy with how the steering was working since adding the ram so I called psc and got the remote reservoir setup and found a smaller diameter pulley. It was hard to turn the truck at slow speed unless i revved the engine up. after the upgrades i drove it today and everything worked great for the 1st 30 miles or so and now its intermittently hard to turn. Hopefully its just air in the system.
On to my next upgrade, I havent seen happy with the brakes since swapping in the dana 60. Im guessing I need a different master cylinder. Which 1 do i need? Its got the 14 bolt semifloat with 3/4 ton drums out back
On to my next upgrade, I havent seen happy with the brakes since swapping in the dana 60. Im guessing I need a different master cylinder. Which 1 do i need? Its got the 14 bolt semifloat with 3/4 ton drums out back
Looking good, surprised I didn't see this thread in the past...cool burb.
