The wipers don't park, the main problem is they stay on the lowest setting all the time, you can't turn them off.
CK5
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1989 Diesel Jimmy. What do we have here hmmmm
- Thread starter blazinzuk
- Start date
The wipers don't park, the main problem is they stay on the lowest setting all the time, you can't turn them off.
hmm, I dunno I want to do 4 buckets and 2 - consoles in my Dually I might take you up on that!
michael0584
1/2 ton status
Try messing with the park switch, that's what mine were doing before I fixed the park switch.
Cool I will do that. Thanks
Okay so a couple things first wipers,
I don't have anything to compare them too but they go pretty low on the windshield, how low do they go when they park. I can get them to stop but only if I kind of force the switch (on the column) just past the mist setting.
They don't park there they just stop. I am really not sure if they are parking or not.
Second rear window, no power to the blue wire. Have power at the switch going to the wire and power coming out of the connector to the switch so somewhere I have a broken or bad wire, got to figure out where the wiring goes. Is it in the body or under?
Brown and white wire has power and it will roll the window up no problem. The connector at the motor was gummed up with some black stuff, I did jam the test light into the connector and cleaned off most of the black stuff and still no power to the blue wire, other wire is just fine. I also need to remove the tailgate key and figure out why I can't put my key in it.
So tomorrow I will go chasing wires
Small victory include aiming my headlights so the dims are actually quite nice now, the brights on this truck are awesome.
Need to get a steering wheel puller so that I can take a column I have apart and put the self canceling cam in my column and I will probably switch out the windshield wiper switch.
Even though I still have the bad vibrations (have to wait for a torque converter) I am still driving it and loving every minute of it
I don't have anything to compare them too but they go pretty low on the windshield, how low do they go when they park. I can get them to stop but only if I kind of force the switch (on the column) just past the mist setting.
They don't park there they just stop. I am really not sure if they are parking or not.
Second rear window, no power to the blue wire. Have power at the switch going to the wire and power coming out of the connector to the switch so somewhere I have a broken or bad wire, got to figure out where the wiring goes. Is it in the body or under?
Brown and white wire has power and it will roll the window up no problem. The connector at the motor was gummed up with some black stuff, I did jam the test light into the connector and cleaned off most of the black stuff and still no power to the blue wire, other wire is just fine. I also need to remove the tailgate key and figure out why I can't put my key in it.
So tomorrow I will go chasing wires
Small victory include aiming my headlights so the dims are actually quite nice now, the brights on this truck are awesome.
Need to get a steering wheel puller so that I can take a column I have apart and put the self canceling cam in my column and I will probably switch out the windshield wiper switch.
Even though I still have the bad vibrations (have to wait for a torque converter) I am still driving it and loving every minute of it
lectric80
3/4 ton status
There should be three wires going to the rear window. One has power at all times and is the feed for the rear switch at the key. The other two come from the dash switch and are powered only when the switch on the dash is pressed. One for up the other for down. It's been a while, but I think the orange wire was the constant hot, but don't quote me on that. I can look at the tub when I get home and give you a bit more information in the morning, but I know there should be three wires.
three wires at the switch, but only two wires that go into the motor.
Are they the same three wires for the keyswitch? And if so do the wires go through the keyswitch before the motor?
Are they the same three wires for the keyswitch? And if so do the wires go through the keyswitch before the motor?
lectric80
3/4 ton status
No, the two that come from the dash switch should go direct to the motor, the third wire provides power to the key switch which then switches power to the motor for the two directions which should join the two wires from the dash switch. Ground is through the tailgate itself.
Of course I am ignoring the safety switch for this, which only effects the up direction. Most people just bypass it.
Edit: It has been a while but it is possible the two wires from the dash switch tie in at the key switch on the same posts where the two wires go to the motor. So, all three wires would run to the key switch, with two wires then running down to the motor, but the two wires from the dash are not switched at the key switch.
Of course I am ignoring the safety switch for this, which only effects the up direction. Most people just bypass it.
Edit: It has been a while but it is possible the two wires from the dash switch tie in at the key switch on the same posts where the two wires go to the motor. So, all three wires would run to the key switch, with two wires then running down to the motor, but the two wires from the dash are not switched at the key switch.
Yea the key should have all three wires too. They do the same one constant other two power when the switch is turned to them. Not sure on this one but would the lock on the rear window have power cuz of the power locks?
The issue has to be in the switch or the conections if it was in the motor it would not have worked at all.
it has worked both ways and by the switch on the dash, my guess is its because of the switch and the issues we had with it.
one way to check is pull the wires fron the back of the switch and stick them together the window should move.
The issue has to be in the switch or the conections if it was in the motor it would not have worked at all.
it has worked both ways and by the switch on the dash, my guess is its because of the switch and the issues we had with it.
one way to check is pull the wires fron the back of the switch and stick them together the window should move.
Well as far as the window goes it was the safety switch. Works awesome now.
one blue wire in, one blue wire out, connected with a butt connector, and boom rear window works just fine.
I did double check there on the bottom of the motor right next to where the drive cable goes in, there is in fact only 2 wires. If you don't count the ground wire, which does not go into the motor(it is black). The blue one, which controls the up motion of the window. And the brown with a white stripe, which controls the down motion of the window. The safety switch is on the blue wires located on the drivers side tailgate latch.
Thanks for you help gents
I do hope this thread turns into a sort of quick reference guide for certain problems that new or old (in my case) owners can look at and hopefully find some answers to their questions.
I plan to post everything even tiny small repair I do in hopes it will be able to help someone.
Onto the windshield wipers
one blue wire in, one blue wire out, connected with a butt connector, and boom rear window works just fine.
I did double check there on the bottom of the motor right next to where the drive cable goes in, there is in fact only 2 wires. If you don't count the ground wire, which does not go into the motor(it is black). The blue one, which controls the up motion of the window. And the brown with a white stripe, which controls the down motion of the window. The safety switch is on the blue wires located on the drivers side tailgate latch.
Thanks for you help gents
I do hope this thread turns into a sort of quick reference guide for certain problems that new or old (in my case) owners can look at and hopefully find some answers to their questions.
I plan to post everything even tiny small repair I do in hopes it will be able to help someone.
Onto the windshield wipers
lol its a lost cause you should just park it I'll be up in January to pick it up
HA, I will probably have this thing for many moons to come.
Just found another problem. Rear pinion bearing is going out.
Really need to get the trans swapped have to put it in 4lo to back up even the slightest incline.
Need to go get some gear oil so I can check the gearing I have another 10 bolt just sitting around if the gears match I will probable just swap it in.
I certainly knew this would be a process, it might be a very long one but I will get all the problems fixed, then I would imagine I will do something stupid and create some new ones
LOL, its always something, My problem is I never just fix something I have a real bad case of the "well since I got it apart I might as well................"
Seriously good looking Jimmy I'm kinda jealous!!!
Seriously good looking Jimmy I'm kinda jealous!!!
LOL only on CK5 can you have "Jimmy envy" and it not be taken the wrong way !
lol
Okay so more little repairs to the Jimmy, vent window. Took one out of another 89 I have very straight forward, I put the broken one back in the parts Jimmy and forgot to line up the channel with the glass so now I have to take the door panel off again.
Looky I took pics.
What I started with
First remove the door panels, this can be different year to year power vs. non, but if you think you have all the screws out and it doesn't come easy you have forgotten something
I tend to always forget these on the pull handles
After all the screws are out plus you will need to give the panel a jolt upwards there are steel clips that hold it on the window opening. Like I said make sure you have everything off you need. Including the door pull handle bezel and the thing that threads onto the door lock.
Once the panel is off remove the two screws that hold it in here is where one is the other one is down from it
There is also a bolt that holds the lower mount in it is already taken out
When taking the vent window out you will have to gently cajole it and twist it many ways. Be careful with it. Pealing back the window channel at the top of the window allows you more room at the top of the window which is needed. Pull it back and up look in the door panel and you will see where and how you will have to rotate it to get it out.
When putting it back in make sure the window glass is lined up with the channel that the vent window assembly has in it.
Pretty simple stuff and you end up with a nice functional vent window
Looky I took pics.
What I started with
First remove the door panels, this can be different year to year power vs. non, but if you think you have all the screws out and it doesn't come easy you have forgotten something
I tend to always forget these on the pull handles
After all the screws are out plus you will need to give the panel a jolt upwards there are steel clips that hold it on the window opening. Like I said make sure you have everything off you need. Including the door pull handle bezel and the thing that threads onto the door lock.
Once the panel is off remove the two screws that hold it in here is where one is the other one is down from it
There is also a bolt that holds the lower mount in it is already taken out
When taking the vent window out you will have to gently cajole it and twist it many ways. Be careful with it. Pealing back the window channel at the top of the window allows you more room at the top of the window which is needed. Pull it back and up look in the door panel and you will see where and how you will have to rotate it to get it out.
When putting it back in make sure the window glass is lined up with the channel that the vent window assembly has in it.
Pretty simple stuff and you end up with a nice functional vent window
time for a decision.
I have a bad rear end
no seriously my 10 bolt rear has seen better days.
I really don't know what gears I have currently need to check but it feels like it could use some lower gears for sure.
I have been wanting to find a semifloat 14b that is 6 lug to replace my 10 bolt. A buddy called me up tonight and has a 12 bolt with 4.10s in it and a matching 10 bolt (housing with gears) that he would sell me. Price is way low.
I have never had a problem with 12 bolts they seem to hold up just fine to 35s which is what I have.
What to do what to do. Change the master plan (with every truck I write a master plan of future mods) or just upgrade to a 12 bolt and get 4.10s in the process
I have a bad rear end
no seriously my 10 bolt rear has seen better days. I really don't know what gears I have currently need to check but it feels like it could use some lower gears for sure.
I have been wanting to find a semifloat 14b that is 6 lug to replace my 10 bolt. A buddy called me up tonight and has a 12 bolt with 4.10s in it and a matching 10 bolt (housing with gears) that he would sell me. Price is way low.
I have never had a problem with 12 bolts they seem to hold up just fine to 35s which is what I have.
What to do what to do. Change the master plan (with every truck I write a master plan of future mods) or just upgrade to a 12 bolt and get 4.10s in the process
shovelbill80
1/2 ton status
have you used a gear calculator to figure out what would be best for you. i don't know the math but 4.10's and a diesel may just spin too high for good economy.....i don't know what's best for a 6.2 with 35's, just throwing it out there.
it was pretty good for my 305's mpgs a long time ago.
that deal don't sound too bad if you need the rear and it's the proper ratio for you. a 12 bolt and newer 10 have the same 30 spline, no? could get you a bit more life on the cheap.
it was pretty good for my 305's mpgs a long time ago.
that deal don't sound too bad if you need the rear and it's the proper ratio for you. a 12 bolt and newer 10 have the same 30 spline, no? could get you a bit more life on the cheap.
4.10's and 35's would be a pretty good ratio with a diesel. Keep it from screaming for sure.
I've got 3.73's and 32's and it spins them with ease. 33's won't be any trouble.
I've got 3.73's and 32's and it spins them with ease. 33's won't be any trouble.
And really and truly I don't mind poking along at a slower rate than most traffic anyway, This truck has the 700 so overdrive helps.
I just did the gear calc and 4.10s with 35s seems good to me. I put my tire size at 34 (alot closer to the real world) and even at 75 I am still only turning 2100 rpm.
I am new to the diesel world but that seems pretty good to me.
The 10 and 12 bolt on paper are also the same strength. The 12 bolt just a hair stronger. I am not sure on the spline count I thought it was only the front that changed the spline count but I am not sure.
Really doing this mostly for the gears
I just did the gear calc and 4.10s with 35s seems good to me. I put my tire size at 34 (alot closer to the real world) and even at 75 I am still only turning 2100 rpm.
I am new to the diesel world but that seems pretty good to me.
The 10 and 12 bolt on paper are also the same strength. The 12 bolt just a hair stronger. I am not sure on the spline count I thought it was only the front that changed the spline count but I am not sure.
Really doing this mostly for the gears
