CK5
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1989 Diesel Jimmy. What do we have here hmmmm
- Thread starter blazinzuk
- Start date
sixb
1/2 ton status
So today my water pump/fan/pullys decided to have a come apart.
Haven't torn into it yet to look at it but every thing is loose and there is coolant everywhere it shouldn't be. Had to be towed home
I have extra fans and a pulley available for ya, no pump though. Actually the 6.5 is still in my trailer and you can have some parts off that if needed.
So this is what I have now, open to suggestions? Anyone see a problem with using a small amount of rtv and the gasket, I know long term I need to fix this I am sure some of the pits will go through eventually
Some rtv and the gasket will get you by for a while. Just be sure to let the rtv setup correctly before putting any coolant in.
Thought I might update this a little.
The water pump fix was successful very little of the pitting was in the actual area of the gasket, no leaks to date and its been a while.
Been chasing a brake light problem that I fixed today bad brake light switch, well not really bad just wouldn't stay in place all the time.
Next couple of weeks I need to fix the wipers, fix the turn signals, put the new door locks in, get the damn wheel locks off and rotate the tires and put the new axles in.
Now for the big news. I have another body for a blazer that is in pretty good shape as far as rust goes, little surface rust no cancer at all. After pulling a couple things apart on this Jimmy the body swap will happen. It has problems everywhere and not little ones.
I would imagine even with new bushings and the such the body swap will be cheaper and quicker than trying to fix the rust in this truck
The water pump fix was successful very little of the pitting was in the actual area of the gasket, no leaks to date and its been a while.
Been chasing a brake light problem that I fixed today bad brake light switch, well not really bad just wouldn't stay in place all the time.
Next couple of weeks I need to fix the wipers, fix the turn signals, put the new door locks in, get the damn wheel locks off and rotate the tires and put the new axles in.
Now for the big news. I have another body for a blazer that is in pretty good shape as far as rust goes, little surface rust no cancer at all. After pulling a couple things apart on this Jimmy the body swap will happen. It has problems everywhere and not little ones.
I would imagine even with new bushings and the such the body swap will be cheaper and quicker than trying to fix the rust in this truck
I know this is going to shock you but I have new bushings, and an ORD body lift, I may use them though on the crew but we will see.
Hey Eric, next time you need parts for a diesel like this pump plate, ask me.
I have about six engines that are parts engines non running and they all are in pretty good shape except for one small thing.
I actually have a pump appart sitting on my bench.
And if you are parting the K5, I might have plans for the body and frame, even with rust and all.
I have about six engines that are parts engines non running and they all are in pretty good shape except for one small thing.
I actually have a pump appart sitting on my bench.
And if you are parting the K5, I might have plans for the body and frame, even with rust and all.
Issam when I get the swap done the frame and body are yours if you want em.
Just ordered all the new parts for the column so I can get my windsheild wipers working again. Turn signals will work again and should be able to get the horn working.
So column tear apart in about a week
Just ordered all the new parts for the column so I can get my windsheild wipers working again. Turn signals will work again and should be able to get the horn working.
So column tear apart in about a week
So a problem has arisen.
Went to start the truck yesterday and it cranked and fired right up like normal ( it was about 18* outside) Ran and died in about 30 seconds.
Well then it wouldn't fire up at all, till a bit later. Did the same thing fired up ( this time it was a very hard start) ran for about 15 seconds maybe a touch longer, then died.
Pushed it into the garage, put the heater in there with it this morning and after a a couple of trys it starts, it did start pretty hard though.
I have been letting it idle and its doing just fine. Turned it off and started it again and no problems at all.
What is my problem? Its a dead bone stock 89 6.2, I did find a small dripping fuel leak on the return hose on the lift pump. I have not fixed it yet, but will later tonight.
Now note I have has this truck for a winter and it did not have a hard time starting last winter, even in below zero weather.
I think I will go grab some additives tonight as I have been reading and I should run them anyway it seems. But going to go get some stuff to help prevent the diesel gelling in colder weather.
Water in fuel light is not on and the glow plugs seem to be cycling very normally
Went to start the truck yesterday and it cranked and fired right up like normal ( it was about 18* outside) Ran and died in about 30 seconds.
Well then it wouldn't fire up at all, till a bit later. Did the same thing fired up ( this time it was a very hard start) ran for about 15 seconds maybe a touch longer, then died.
Pushed it into the garage, put the heater in there with it this morning and after a a couple of trys it starts, it did start pretty hard though.
I have been letting it idle and its doing just fine. Turned it off and started it again and no problems at all.
What is my problem? Its a dead bone stock 89 6.2, I did find a small dripping fuel leak on the return hose on the lift pump. I have not fixed it yet, but will later tonight.
Now note I have has this truck for a winter and it did not have a hard time starting last winter, even in below zero weather.
I think I will go grab some additives tonight as I have been reading and I should run them anyway it seems. But going to go get some stuff to help prevent the diesel gelling in colder weather.
Water in fuel light is not on and the glow plugs seem to be cycling very normally
Kinda sounds to me like you aren't getting constant fuel maybe? Air in the lines and/or jelled fuel.
Sounds like Gelled fuel, Get some Power Service. and a New Fuel filter
I am guessing you already found the problem, that return line leak is probably letting air back into the pump. I know it does not sound right but my experience with other diesels with very similar fuel systems is that the return system needs to be as air tight as the feed side of the system. I think it is even more critical with diaphram type mechanical pumps, so if you have an elecric pump and no mechanical pump after it then it may not be the issue. But I would fix that first and see what happens.
JLT
JLT
so not starting again, and at a very inconvenient time 
So plan is to possibly replace the lift pump and see where that takes me, any brand name recommendations?
I have read that a weak pump can lead to hard starting, I assume the pump works much like a normal fuel pump and I have had those go back and forth from working to not working.
I don't think there are any other issues other than the fact its not getting fuel.
So plan is to possibly replace the lift pump and see where that takes me, any brand name recommendations?
I have read that a weak pump can lead to hard starting, I assume the pump works much like a normal fuel pump and I have had those go back and forth from working to not working.
I don't think there are any other issues other than the fact its not getting fuel.
I'm going to presume that you have done both fuel filters 
cdoggwsu
1/2 ton status
I haven't done the mechanical lift pump job yet but I hear it can be a pain in the keister. If I ever get around to it in the burb I'd like to go electric and block off that mech pump port.
Mech pump is a PITA...there is very little room to see or maneuver. If you go with a mech replacement, get one for an '89 or newer. Apparently the earlier style is more prone to allowing fuel to drain back.
When my mech pump goes i'm swapping to an electric pump, it's supposed to be noticeably better for starting according to a few guys here.
When my mech pump goes i'm swapping to an electric pump, it's supposed to be noticeably better for starting according to a few guys here.
I got an ACDelco one from Rock Auto about a year ago and my buddy and I swapped it on. Price wasn't bad and it showed up in an older box so I'm pretty sure it was US made.
He ended up doing more of the work because he's done them on several older gas engines and said other than the fact that everything was in the way it was pretty similar to the others he had done.
He ended up doing more of the work because he's done them on several older gas engines and said other than the fact that everything was in the way it was pretty similar to the others he had done.
X2 on going electric, It sure makes things easier when you go to change fuel filters or bleed the injectors .
Also you gotta get a handle on ANY fuel leak no matter how small if fuel can get out air can get in
Also you gotta get a handle on ANY fuel leak no matter how small if fuel can get out air can get in
Sometimes when you have new axles kicking around for your truck and you have ignored problems you tend to get tired of tripping over them. And then when the weekend is mostly over you decide to put said axles in.
So soon the Jimmy will have 10 bolts ( I know not exciting at all) with 4.56 gears in em.
Ball joints are way bad on my current axle
So soon the Jimmy will have 10 bolts ( I know not exciting at all) with 4.56 gears in em.
Ball joints are way bad on my current axle
4.56's will wake it up a lot!! 
