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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Overview Gallery Discussion
shima said:
I can see how the more you wheel, the more stuff you "might as well" change... next thing I know my truck is going to be totally different! :haha:
Click to expand...
Careful there... Going out wheeling with guys like Mrk5, Bent77 that have some well built rigs will get you thinking about grand plans to get to that level. Keep this in mind a stock K5 is pretty darn capable ride in it's own right. Will it conquer stuff as easy as a built truck will? No, but it might have to work a little harder. Resist going full bananas for a giant build with major changes. Do a simple lift and 33's to stick close to stock with the gearing and still be safe with the 10 bolts. It's going to wheel better but not break the bank and keep the truck on the road, not in perpetual build jail.
 
Out working on my EGR issue. I cleared all codes and then took her for a test drive the next day. Code 32 came back with the first long drive.

EGR valve itself seems okay. Mostly clean. Holds a vacuum. Rebounds pretty slow but I'd guess that's normal. The line going to EGR solenoid is in pretty good shape and isn't clogged. The line going from solenoid to the throttle body also seems fine. I made sure the electrical connection to the EGR solenoid was snug. It doesn't have one of those tabs that "locks" the connection in place, which sucks.

The symptom is always the same. Long drive, code 32 comes on, I end up with a rough idle. Seems as though too much exhaust gas is in the combustion chamber. Like my EGR valve opens with no problem but then doesn't close when it should.
 
Last night I ended up checking for vacuum leaks again. I sprayed carb cleaner along the line from the EGR valve to the EGR solenoid, then from the EGR solenoid to the throttle body. I couldn't hear any change in engine RPM.

When cleaning the EGR valve itself, I got carb cleaner on the diaphragm. Just being an idiot... I forgot that you weren't supposed to let solvents touch the diaphragm.

So I decided to just replace the EGR valve and start fresh. Went to my local AutoZone this morning and they didn't have the AC Delco unit in stock so I had to order it. It will be here tomorrow. AC Delco unit was twice as much as the Duralast unit, but I read on more than one thread that you should just fork over the cash for the AC Delco. So that's what I did. It was $110 after tax :mad:. But if it solves my 32 trouble code then I'm happy...
 
Got the new EGR valve installed on Thursday night...

EGR Packaging

EGR Packaging


EGR Packaging

EGR Packaging

Part numbers, etc.

New EGR Valve

New EGR Valve


I don't want to jinx it, but I think the new EGR may have solved my code 32 issue.

I drove the truck a pretty standard distance on Friday (20 miles round trip) and then drove it a longer distance today (40 miles round trip). No check engine light, no ugly idle. It felt great. I am really happy and crossing my fingers that it stays this way.

EDIT: Thanks to everybody who chimed in on this build thread or my code 32 troubleshooting thread in The Garage a while back (https://ck5.com/forums/threads/troubleshooting-code-32.333139/). It is much appreciated.
 
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Next up on the list:
  • Installing the set of shocks that @Justin V gave me a while back
  • Checking out my brake pads and rotors in the front, then checking out the shoes in back
Aimee asked me if I wanted something for the K5 for my birthday this year, so I told her ORD swaybar disconnects. I think she's down for it so I'll install that ASAP as well.
 
Long drive out to Union Reservoir yesterday. 40ish miles each way. 4 people, two dogs, and an inflatable paddle board!

Code 32 reared its ugly head again, unfortunately. CEL stayed on for perhaps 5-10 miles cruising home southbound on I-25. No noticeable changes to how the truck actually drove.

This morning, fired the truck up to drive into work. Really high-pitch whine sound came out - sounded like it was about to backfire again. I pulled the key out of the ignition and waited a few minutes before trying again. Started just fine.

So, that was a short story made longer than it needed to be. Gotta do more investigating and keep learning about this system. Perhaps the backfire is a clue. I'll read into it and report back with what I do / what I learn.
 
Psst.....




LS swap it....no egr....







Seriously it's odd to keep having the 32 code come back after installing a new egr. I'll look at some stuff at work and see if there is anything you might be overlooking.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Psst.....

LS swap it....no egr....

Seriously it's odd to keep having the 32 code come back after installing a new egr. I'll look at some stuff at work and see if there is anything you might be overlooking.
Click to expand...

I appreciate that!
 
I have been having the same problem you have been having. I replaced my EGR valve but i have yet to take it on a long enough trip and get it over the speed needed to see if I fixed the problem.
 
Thanks a bunch @ZooMad75. Just printed that off and will walk through it as best I can.

Looks like my next purchase is a vacuum gauge. Probably should have started there a while back anyhow.
 
No problem dude. Happy to help.

Should be able to get a cheap gauge at AutoZone or harbor freight.
 
It has been a short while since I've checked in!

I haven't gotten to the EGR diagnostics yet on the Blazer because I'm going to start some work on my other vehicle. Unfortunately, I have some bad news to report anyhow. A week or so ago I took the Blazer on a long drive to go mountain biking. Drove just fine the whole way there and back. My CEL came on for a short while and disappeared, but there was no change in how the truck actually drove. Pretty sure it was 32 again - haven't even bothered checking. Parked it in the garage when I got home. I pulled it out yesterday to put my other vehicle in the garage to start the aforementioned work and found this on the floor:

Trans Fluid Leak

Trans Fluid Leak

Mixed with oil perhaps?

As you can probably see in the pic, there wasn't much fluid on the ground but it looks like a mix of trans fluid and motor oil. I am not 100% sure that's what it is but the mark on the floor is roughly beneath where my engine and transmission mate together, so I am taking a guess. Either way, I have another leak to diagnose / fix. I am bummed but it is what it is.

I am planning on knocking out the work on my other vehicle within a week or two and then the Blazer gets its spot back in the garage. I hope to have it in good shape for snowboarding by early December.
 
Finished the work on my daily. Ended up installing new pads and rotors and two new-to-me junkyard calipers. Then I bled all four brakes. I still want to install some belt pulleys that I picked up from the junkyard, but that can wait.

So, I'm finally back on the Blazer. I bought this transfer case seal last night at AutoZone:
Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal (Rear)

Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal (Rear)

11/24/18

@jeff in co I am hoping this is the seal that you were referring to. I spent an embarrassingly-long amount of time trying to figure out what a slip joint seal looked like on the internet. Then I spent an even more embarrassingly-long amount of time trying to figure out if there was a difference between a slip joint and a slip yoke. LOL. So it goes I guess. When getting under the truck and just looking at my transfer case, this looked like the appropriate fix for the leak. So I'm optimistic I'll be good after this.

Found a nice video on it:

After that I am gonna try my hand at the EGR diagnostic tree that @ZooMad75 linked. That one is a little intimidating but I've got the vacuum gauge so I'm gonna give it the 'ol college try.
 
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