CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
I don't think I've ever tried it!!
 
the rod you keep adjusting is the cruise control diafram.
You can disconnect that from both ends and see if throttle still acts up.
But I really think the spark plugs wires are interfering.
 
I adjusted the cruise control thing so that my throttle plates close fully now. Seemed to help a lot.

Is it possible to clean the IAC, or should I just replace it? Thinking mine is gummed up. Gonna check today hopefully.
 
yes it can be cleaned. you will want a wire pipe brush or gun brush to clean the TBI orifice. Make sure to put a little light machine oil on the drive threads on the IAC, before reinstall.
 
@Wes Harden I'm getting around to doing a bunch of Blazer work today... anything else I could use in place of machine oil? Motor oil maybe?
 
Sure a drop of motor oil will better than nothing. Do you have oil for fishing reels, guns, hair clippers, sewing machine? Any of those will do.
 
Oh wow I think I have a tiny thing of oil for hair clippers somewhere in my bathroom. Thanks man!!
 
Tried cleaning my IAC and broke the thing! Wasn't a huge deal, my local parts store had a replacement in stock. It wasn't the panacea that I was hoping for with the rough idle. Tonight I am going to pop out my PCV valve and look at it to try and see what condition it is in. Might replace it because it looks like a new one is less than 10 bucks.

Also, I am starting to get serious about doing some exhaust work on my Blazer. I contacted Summit Racing and asked whether they sold a manifold-back dual exhaust system that has cats. The rep who got back to me said they don't sell anything like that, which was a little bit of a surprise. If anyone knows of something like that let me know, I would definitely appreciate it.
 
Man I screwed something up, now the Blazer won't start. Just cranks and cranks...

Tried starting it without that green wire connected. Was planning to use a voltmeter to apply ground to that wire with the engine running and video tape my temp gauge to see whether the needle moved at all. Anyhow when I cranked the key the Blazer fired up but the enginer starting was louder than usual and it died immediately. I reconnected the green wire shown and tried again, all it will do is crank but it won't actually start. One weird thing I want to mention is that I heard some noises coming from the back of the engine bay near the firewall on the passenger side. Then when I put my key into the ignition a short bit later the radio was making some seriously weird noises. This is with the ignition at the "OFF" position. I turned the key to the "ON" position and the radio came on like normal. But it was making some weird-ass feedback noises before then. Spooked me a little bit.

I checked some of my fuses, IGN / ECM / ECM B... they're all fine. Will try to get further tomorrow.
 
Man I screwed something up, now the Blazer won't start. Just cranks and cranks...

Tried starting it without that green wire connected. Was planning to use a voltmeter to apply ground to that wire with the engine running and video tape my temp gauge to see whether the needle moved at all. Anyhow when I cranked the key the Blazer fired up but the enginer starting was louder than usual and it died immediately. I reconnected the green wire shown and tried again, all it will do is crank but it won't actually start. One weird thing I want to mention is that I heard some noises coming from the back of the engine bay near the firewall on the passenger side. Then when I put my key into the ignition a short bit later the radio was making some seriously weird noises. This is with the ignition at the "OFF" position. I turned the key to the "ON" position and the radio came on like normal. But it was making some weird-ass feedback noises before then. Spooked me a little bit.

I checked some of my fuses, IGN / ECM / ECM B... they're all fine. Will try to get further tomorrow.
I can stop by after work tomorrow if you do not figure it out before then.
 
Something is not right. The loom the temp sender wire is in is suspect in my mind right. Also the ignition switch, low on column. Might be crossing circuits.
 
Man I screwed something up, now the Blazer won't start. Just cranks and cranks...

Tried starting it without that green wire connected. Was planning to use a voltmeter to apply ground to that wire with the engine running and video tape my temp gauge to see whether the needle moved at all. Anyhow when I cranked the key the Blazer fired up but the enginer starting was louder than usual and it died immediately. I reconnected the green wire shown and tried again, all it will do is crank but it won't actually start. One weird thing I want to mention is that I heard some noises coming from the back of the engine bay near the firewall on the passenger side. Then when I put my key into the ignition a short bit later the radio was making some seriously weird noises. This is with the ignition at the "OFF" position. I turned the key to the "ON" position and the radio came on like normal. But it was making some weird-ass feedback noises before then. Spooked me a little bit.

I checked some of my fuses, IGN / ECM / ECM B... they're all fine. Will try to get further tomorrow.
Any luck?
 
Any luck?

Nah been working all day, haven't looked at it yet. If you're cool with coming over I'd love it, but really don't worry about it if you're busy!

EDIT: If you're thinking about stopping by text me and I'll double-check it before you come over in case it starts. Don't want to waste your time.
 
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So tonight was pretty outstanding. @Capt Ron came over, found about 4 or 5 issues with my Blazer, fixed them, and left all in about an hour and a half or so. I was in awe.

Hopefully I get all this right, I wanted to write it all down so I remember this stuff. A lot of good lessons learned tonight.
  • Truck wasn't starting.
  • Couldn't hear fuel pump come on but we were getting fuel at the injectors.
  • Ron was in the engine bay when I cranked from the driver's seat, he saw a spark arcing near my exhaust manifold.
  • We tried one more time to start it up and a fire started on my passenger side exhaust manifold. We were able to blow it out. The manifold was wet, presumably with gas (?)
  • Pulled the nearest plug and it was dripping wet with gas. Engine was flooded.
  • We disconnected the injectors and pushed out a bunch of the extra gas through the open spark plug hole.
  • Ron found that one of the spark plug wires in that area was burned through because it had been rubbing on the exhaust manifold.
  • Tried starting it again and the truck ran even with the injectors disconnected for probably 5-10 seconds. Just had been flooded with fuel.
  • We pulled a second plug and it looked okay but Ron noticed a crack in the first plug. The spark coming from the plugs in that area was weak.
  • We connected everything back up and the truck ran fine but was idling high.
  • Ron found a vacuum leak in one of the hoses back near the firewall. We cut out the old brittle stuff and replaced it with some spare hose I had in my tool chest.
  • Still was idling slightly high, Ron took a look at the distributor and found that the cap was real loose. The clamp needs to get tightened down.
Work ahead of me:
  1. New plugs / wires / distributor cap / rotor.
  2. Need to tighten the distributor clamp.
  3. Replacement hose for the patch we made near the firewall.
I am still not sure what caused my engine to flood in the first place, perhaps it was a weaker than normal spark due to the plugs and/or distributor cap and/or the damaged wire. Perhaps it wasn't burning up all the fuel coming in from the injectors and it eventually flooded.

Tremendous thanks to Ron, can't say it enough. I think once I get the spark plug / wire / distributor job done my Blazer will feel brand new. Almost certain that this will cure my rough idle blues I've been dealing with.
 
So tonight was pretty outstanding. @Capt Ron came over, found about 4 or 5 issues with my Blazer, fixed them, and left all in about an hour and a half or so. I was in awe.

Hopefully I get all this right, I wanted to write it all down so I remember this stuff. A lot of good lessons learned tonight.
  • Truck wasn't starting.
  • Couldn't hear fuel pump come on but we were getting fuel at the injectors.
  • Ron was in the engine bay when I cranked from the driver's seat, he saw a spark arcing near my exhaust manifold.
  • We tried one more time to start it up and a fire started on my passenger side exhaust manifold. We were able to blow it out. The manifold was wet, presumably with gas (?)
  • Pulled the nearest plug and it was dripping wet with gas. Engine was flooded.
  • We disconnected the injectors and pushed out a bunch of the extra gas through the open spark plug hole.
  • Ron found that one of the spark plug wires in that area was burned through because it had been rubbing on the exhaust manifold.
  • Tried starting it again and the truck ran even with the injectors disconnected for probably 5-10 seconds. Just had been flooded with fuel.
  • We pulled a second plug and it looked okay but Ron noticed a crack in the first plug. The spark coming from the plugs in that area was weak.
  • We connected everything back up and the truck ran fine but was idling high.
  • Ron found a vacuum leak in one of the hoses back near the firewall. We cut out the old brittle stuff and replaced it with some spare hose I had in my tool chest.
  • Still was idling slightly high, Ron took a look at the distributor and found that the cap was real loose. The clamp needs to get tightened down.
Work ahead of me:
  1. New plugs / wires / distributor cap / rotor.
  2. Need to tighten the distributor clamp.
  3. Replacement hose for the patch we made near the firewall.
I am still not sure what caused my engine to flood in the first place, perhaps it was a weaker than normal spark due to the plugs and/or distributor cap and/or the damaged wire. Perhaps it wasn't burning up all the fuel coming in from the injectors and it eventually flooded.

Tremendous thanks to Ron, can't say it enough. I think once I get the spark plug / wire / distributor job done my Blazer will feel brand new. Almost certain that this will cure my rough idle blues I've been dealing with.
Ron is a stud for sure and willing to help anybody. Glad he was able to help you.

As far as it getting flooded to start with, loose cap causing no spark but the injectors are firing is a quick way to do it.

But the takeaway I get from this is, don't overlook the basics. Ron's old school and that's second nature for him. But even on a simple efi system it's common to over think the problem and reach for the bigger/more expensive part. Check the basics always. You'd be surprised how often we fix stuff in the shop where others have gone overboard and we find something simple and small as the cause.

Sounds like you got a good weekend wrench session coming.
 
Ron is a stud for sure and willing to help anybody. Glad he was able to help you.

As far as it getting flooded to start with, loose cap causing no spark but the injectors are firing is a quick way to do it.

But the takeaway I get from this is, don't overlook the basics. Ron's old school and that's second nature for him. But even on a simple efi system it's common to over think the problem and reach for the bigger/more expensive part. Check the basics always. You'd be surprised how often we fix stuff in the shop where others have gone overboard and we find something simple and small as the cause.

Sounds like you got a good weekend wrench session coming.

It really is a great takeaway. I can't wait to do the job, but my parents are coming into town tomorrow. I won't be able to work on it until late next week when they head back home.
 
I finished replacing cap, rotor, plugs, and wires last night. The Blazer fired up but had no power when I took it for a test drive.

At first I immediately thought I got the firing order wrong. I took care to follow the order printed on the intake and started at the 5 o'clock position on the distributor cap.

I have just one question for anyone out there:

1. My dumb ass put dielectric grease into both ends of the spark plug wires. I was one of those guys who thought it helped with electrical connections... turns out it doesn't conduct electricity at all according to what I read last night. I am guessing that having dielectric grease in the distributor ends of the spark plug wires is my main issue. Do you guys think I can get that crap cleaned out with q-tips and brake clean?

Thanks as always.
 
I finished replacing cap, rotor, plugs, and wires last night. The Blazer fired up but had no power when I took it for a test drive.

At first I immediately thought I got the firing order wrong. I took care to follow the order printed on the intake and started at the 5 o'clock position on the distributor cap.

I have just one question for anyone out there:

1. My dumb ass put dielectric grease into both ends of the spark plug wires. I was one of those guys who thought it helped with electrical connections... turns out it doesn't conduct electricity at all according to what I read last night. I am guessing that having dielectric grease in the distributor ends of the spark plug wires is my main issue. Do you guys think I can get that crap cleaned out with q-tips and brake clean?

Thanks as always.
I don't know about that.
Dielectric grease is a conductor grease to make a better contact.
Not sure about how it works on hi discharge like a spark plug but I don't think it's the problem.
Did you move the distributor at all?
Any vacuum hose not connected?
Are plugs gapped properly?
 
We moved the dist when I was down there the last time fixing a no start condition. Now that we fixed the vacuum leaks and cracked spark plugs we are gonna have to reset the timing.
 

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