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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Overview Gallery Discussion
shima said:
Hey all, just wanted to give a quick update. I've been driving the Blazer a lot recently. Overall it is doing great.
  • When I first start it with a cold engine, the idle is rough. However it does not die.
  • Once I drive it around a little bit, the idle smooths out.
  • When the engine is fully warmed up, the idle feels/sounds almost perfect.
  • Only one code has been thrown since my last post, and that is #32 EGR. This code has been there since I bought the truck basically.
I plan to do another Tech1 scan. I was thinking I'll do three tests again:
  1. Key on, engine off. Cold engine.
  2. Engine on, not fully warmed up.
  3. Engine on, fully warmed up.
I'll post the numbers like I did in that other recent post.

Question: Can the Tech1 scanner help diagnose that stupid EGR code? The valve and solenoid are new (~7,000 miles on them).
Click to expand...
I'm glad its working better for sure. The tech one can help diagnose the code. It might only be part of the process though. Let me look it up.
 
Dang I appreciate it guys. I'll dig into that later this weekend hopefully.

I did that second round of Tech 1 testing this afternoon. The first time I tried starting the K5 while cold, it fired and then immediately died. No big worry though, on the second attempt to start it fired and stayed running.

These were my three scan conditions:
  1. Key on, engine off. Cold engine.
  2. Engine on, not warmed up yet.
  3. Engine on, warmed up (to 144 F... maybe 5ish minutes of idling?)

Anyway here are the results:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ALcSdMYmPu9IOSbTGCL8WYkhqavQSxYZV87JnSJgkAc/edit?usp=sharing

@Bent77 I'm still at Fuel Integrator 128 / Block Learn 123. For this round of testing, I didn't drive it around at all... but I've been driving it quite a bit in the past week. Wasn't sure if I have something to worry about here.

A buddy of mine wants to try a light wheeling trail tomorrow. I was going to do the IAC re-learn one more time, but I might just save it for after tomorrow's trip.

Anyhow let me know what you all think. Thanks again for letting me borrow the tool, this thing is awesome!
 
@ZooMad75

My code 32 is definitely intermittent. It sometimes comes on and then turns off mid-drive. I think I need to check out the "Diagnostic Aids" section of @Bent77's service manual.
 
The BLM @ 128 is perfect, and the mV at the O2 suggest that is correct. Your idle issue isn’t fuel related, it’s probably the IAC
 
I reset the IAC yesterday using the procedure that Bent sent me from his service manual:
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable for 10 seconds.
  2. Reconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Turn key to ON position for 5 seconds.
  4. Turn key to OFF position for 10 seconds.
Guys, the Blazer sounds fantastic. I couldn't believe how quiet and calm it is. It also starts up faster (takes less time cranking). I couldn't be happier. At this point in the flooding saga I think I can safely say that I am "done".

To do items as of today:
  1. Reinstall the little heat shield thing that protects the cylinder 4 and 6 spark plugs.
  2. Address the small exhaust leaks that are occurring where the exhaust manifolds mate to the cylinder heads.
  3. Finally diagnose and fix the intermittent EGR code.
  4. Start thinking about some fun stuff:
    1. New exhaust (delete factory Y-pipe)?? Just replace the oldschool pancake cat???
    2. ORD Shackle Flip???
    3. Soften up the ride (new springs and shocks)????
 
shima said:
I reset the IAC yesterday using the procedure that Bent sent me from his service manual:
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable for 10 seconds.
  2. Reconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Turn key to ON position for 5 seconds.
  4. Turn key to OFF position for 10 seconds.
Guys, the Blazer sounds fantastic. I couldn't believe how quiet and calm it is. It also starts up faster (takes less time cranking). I couldn't be happier. At this point in the flooding saga I think I can safely say that I am "done".

To do items as of today:
  1. Reinstall the little heat shield thing that protects the cylinder 4 and 6 spark plugs.
  2. Address the small exhaust leaks that are occurring where the exhaust manifolds mate to the cylinder heads.
  3. Finally diagnose and fix the intermittent EGR code.
  4. Start thinking about some fun stuff:
    1. New exhaust (delete factory Y-pipe)?? Just replace the oldschool pancake cat???
    2. ORD Shackle Flip???
    3. Soften up the ride (new springs and shocks)????
Click to expand...
That's great news. Word to the wise though. Never claim anything is "done" it's a pretty good way to jinx yourself back into the problem. At least that's how my luck goes.

I'd drive it and enjoy it as is. See which one of the items bubbles up to the front of your list based on using it.
 
ZooMad75 said:
That's great news. Word to the wise though. Never claim anything is "done" it's a pretty good way to jinx yourself back into the problem. At least that's how my luck goes.

I'd drive it and enjoy it as is. See which one of the items bubbles up to the front of your list based on using it.
Click to expand...
I completely agree!
 
I ran Mosquito Pass and Birdseye Gulch with my buddy Rob yesterday. He has met a few of you guys, because he tagged along on a Moon and Pickle Gulch trail run that we did a few years ago. Anyhow at that time he just had a D21 Hardbody... how he has an XJ that he bought. This was our first trail run together.

I have got to run off on a short road trip in about an hour, so I don't have time to post a full update with pics and video just yet, but I will soon. I've got some great shots to share. Did a few water crossings and saw some mines and whatnot. The Blazer ran great. It died a few times while stuck steeply downhill, but I would just put it back into park and start it up again. It seemed like if I gave it too much throttle it would die... but again only when at a steep downward angle. I was guessing that I wasn't pulling enough fuel for the engine and it would just die from the load.

When coming down a rock face, I didn't have Rob spot me and I got a little cavalier... I got hung up on a rock and bent my tie rod a little bit. After getting free I finished up the trail and then drove home without issue. The bend isn't too bad at all, but it's definitely bent.

A question for you guys... I need to drive the Blazer out to Bailey this coming weekend for a bachelor party. No wheeling involved, we just need a big vehicle with 4-wheel drive to get to a cabin we're staying in. It felt 100% safe to drive the Blazer home yesterday, but I am guessing that my toe angle is all jacked up now that I've bent the tie rod. Do you guys think I'm going to do a real number on my tires driving with the bent tie rod?

Here is a picture of the tie rod:

PXL_20210711_023728731.jpg
 
I'll come over this week after I get back from my road trip, if you're offering!! :wink:
 
I’d try to straighten it before you start doing more miles. The more you drive it, the more it will damage the tires.
 
I've got a decent sledge hammer that I can hit it with. That's all that comes to mind for straightening it out. I wish I had something like a vice... but maybe whacking it with a hammer will work.
 
If you have a bottle jack and some chunks of wood you might be able to get it straighter.
 
shima said:
I've got a decent sledge hammer that I can hit it with. That's all that comes to mind for straightening it out. I wish I had something like a vice... but maybe whacking it with a hammer will work.
Click to expand...
Probably not, it’ll have a spring effect. We use to say eat your Wheaties, but that didn’t work for Bruce Jenner, so...


ZooMad75 said:
If you have a bottle jack and some chunks of wood you might be able to get it straighter.
Click to expand...
straightenerer
 
Rebending a damaged steering components is always a temporary solution.
You'll want to get a new tie rod end soon.
Or go to a high steer tie rod.
To help avoid bending.
 
ZooMad75 said:
If you have a bottle jack and some chunks of wood you might be able to get it straighter.
Click to expand...
From the picture it needs to come down not up.
I would put a long pry bar or tire iron over the rod, under the pumpkin and try to straighten it that way.
But I agree once it bent everytime I straightened mine it bent back to easily until I sleeved it
 
imiceman44 said:
From the picture it needs to come down not up.
I would put a long pry bar or tire iron over the rod, under the pumpkin and try to straighten it that way.
But I agree once it bent everytime I straightened mine it bent back to easily until I sleeved it
Click to expand...
I know it needs to go down. That's the reason for the blocks. It's sketchy but one block on the tie rod, Jack on top and another on the frame or crossmember to bear against.

Still, getting a fresh tie rod is the real fix.
 
www.offroaddesign.com

ORD Heavy Duty Tie Rods

As your truck moves to larger tires and more difficult terrain, the stock steering linkage takes a real beating. So we offer heavy duty tie rods to keep you steering straight Note, these tie rods are for the factory location and are too long to be used in a high steer system.
www.offroaddesign.com www.offroaddesign.com
 
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