Has the timing chain been inspected? Check your base timing again if it has changed since you set timing last. Your timing chain and came gear are probably about to fail.
CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
@Wes Harden I'll take a look at them hopefully this weekend. Am I just looking for play in the chain and wear on the gear teeth?
1st recheck the timing with a light, IF it has changed from where it was at the most recent check and set, then further investigation is needed.
Remove the cap, turn the crank, by hand, clockwise as soon as the distributor rotor moves stop. Mark the crank with chock,crayon.
Then turn counterclockwise as soon as the dist rotor turns stop and mark. The distance between the to marks is the play in the chain and gear.
Sometimes this test will give a false good be cause turning by hand doesn't have the same force.
The est code could be set when engine died computer didn't see the time signal after engine died
Could be the issue, this run good and not something keeps changing, could be a few things
Remove the cap, turn the crank, by hand, clockwise as soon as the distributor rotor moves stop. Mark the crank with chock,crayon.
Then turn counterclockwise as soon as the dist rotor turns stop and mark. The distance between the to marks is the play in the chain and gear.
Sometimes this test will give a false good be cause turning by hand doesn't have the same force.
The est code could be set when engine died computer didn't see the time signal after engine died
Could be the issue, this run good and not something keeps changing, could be a few things
Hey guys, just wanted to provide an update on the Blazer...
@Wes Harden my timing seems to be staying put, which obviously makes me happy. I wasn't thinking 100% straight when I responded to you last time. When I bought this Blazer, the previous owner told me that they had the engine out and got it machined and whatnot before dropping it back in. I would guess that if they went through all that trouble they would have replaced the timing chain and cam gear, but I guess there is a chance that they didn't.
Anyhow, I can't seem to get it running right. I have been messing with the timing and with the IAC. I think I am learning a lesson the hard way here... don't mess with something that was fine beforehand. I have to drive it with two feet right now. If I let my foot off the gas pedal, it dies. It's especially hard to keep running when I turn the steering wheel. At full steering lock it dies without me giving it a lot of gas. Pretty sketchy.
@Bent77 sent me the IAC relearn procedure, so I did that last weekend and have been driving it with two feet ever since. I've probably gone through 10-15 drive cycles. So, I have some questions for you all:
1. How many drive cycles do you need to go through before you can expect the IAC to be done "learning"?
2. How should I help it "learn"? Should I try to keep the truck running, or should I let it die?
3. My timing is right about 0 degrees. It really seemed to run better when it was advanced a little bit. Would you guys suggest I go back to 3 to 5 degrees advanced?
4. If I mess with my timing again, should I redo the IAC relearn procedure afterward?
I'm trying to look through old forum posts to help myself out... most people just say to do the IAC relearn procedure... I am worried that something else is causing my problems and that my timing might be too retarded. Let me know what you all think.
@Wes Harden my timing seems to be staying put, which obviously makes me happy. I wasn't thinking 100% straight when I responded to you last time. When I bought this Blazer, the previous owner told me that they had the engine out and got it machined and whatnot before dropping it back in. I would guess that if they went through all that trouble they would have replaced the timing chain and cam gear, but I guess there is a chance that they didn't.
Anyhow, I can't seem to get it running right. I have been messing with the timing and with the IAC. I think I am learning a lesson the hard way here... don't mess with something that was fine beforehand. I have to drive it with two feet right now. If I let my foot off the gas pedal, it dies. It's especially hard to keep running when I turn the steering wheel. At full steering lock it dies without me giving it a lot of gas. Pretty sketchy.
@Bent77 sent me the IAC relearn procedure, so I did that last weekend and have been driving it with two feet ever since. I've probably gone through 10-15 drive cycles. So, I have some questions for you all:
1. How many drive cycles do you need to go through before you can expect the IAC to be done "learning"?
2. How should I help it "learn"? Should I try to keep the truck running, or should I let it die?
3. My timing is right about 0 degrees. It really seemed to run better when it was advanced a little bit. Would you guys suggest I go back to 3 to 5 degrees advanced?
4. If I mess with my timing again, should I redo the IAC relearn procedure afterward?
I'm trying to look through old forum posts to help myself out... most people just say to do the IAC relearn procedure... I am worried that something else is causing my problems and that my timing might be too retarded. Let me know what you all think.
I don't want to assume so make sure you set the timing with the wire disconnected as as @Bent77 mentioned. If you don't know what wire ask
It would be fine to run 2-4, degrees advanced. The truck should never run that poorly even during an idle relearn.
Yes it would be prudent to install a new timing chain and gears when machine work is done to the block.
Yes it would be prudent to install a new timing chain and gears when machine work is done to the block.
Any codes?
Yeah, the light would come on every time the Blazer died while I was two-footing it. The light would be off the next time I started it. I think it was the electronic spark timing code. Give me a couple minutes, I'll walk out there and post back with confirmation
Egr stuck open, opening to easily will cause this poor running you are experiencing.
I am hesitant to tell you this cause it could damage the egr.
But while it is running poorly and you are under the hood with a mallet smack the top of the egr. If the idle improves, the egr wasn't closed. This could be carbon build up. Or the air bleed port filter is plugged and not allowing the egr apply solenoid to vent.
The code 45 could be as simple as a poor vacuum signal to the map sensor. With the history of this K5, I would definitely give the wiring to the map sensor a once over.
I am hesitant to tell you this cause it could damage the egr.
But while it is running poorly and you are under the hood with a mallet smack the top of the egr. If the idle improves, the egr wasn't closed. This could be carbon build up. Or the air bleed port filter is plugged and not allowing the egr apply solenoid to vent.
The code 45 could be as simple as a poor vacuum signal to the map sensor. With the history of this K5, I would definitely give the wiring to the map sensor a once over.
Ignore the timing code. This is normal when engine dies
Thanks @Wes Harden! I'm having to use a brick on the throttle to keep it running while I set timing. Is it okay that the engine isn't at perfect idle speed? It's at a little higher rpm than normal idle.
Man... @ZooMad75 you can already say I told you so. While messing with the timing, I found that the junkyard injector I bought was soaked with fuel up near the connector point.
I disconnected it and it was still dripping fuel into the throttle body anyhow. With that junkyard injector disconnected, the Blazer would idle fine without my foot on the gas pedal.
Guess it wasn't the IAC or the timing after all. I'm so annoyed with this thing
I disconnected it and it was still dripping fuel into the throttle body anyhow. With that junkyard injector disconnected, the Blazer would idle fine without my foot on the gas pedal.
Guess it wasn't the IAC or the timing after all. I'm so annoyed with this thing
This thread has some good info. I can absolutely hear clicking near the injectors while my engine is running. Going to pull it out once the engine cools down and look at it.
ck5.com
TBI engine flooding
89 blazer floods bad and stalls. Check engine light is not on when flooding. Where should I look for problems? If it was o2 sensor I would think motor would go into closed loop mode, but motor is running worse than closed loop mode. Could this be a problem with the vacuom control for the EGR...
ck5.com
It's all part of the learning curve for you.
An update on the Blazer...
I bought two new (reman) fuel injectors and got them installed. Then I went ahead and did the IAC reset procedure once more. I've been driving the Blazer around in order to help the IAC learn. Unfortunately, I think that the engine is still flooding. Driving it around right now is 100% dangerous. I have to two-foot it and I have to have my foot on the gas pedal pretty hard to keep it from dying.
I just got home from drive #3 since resetting the IAC. My Service Engine Soon light came on and stayed on. I read the codes.
32 - EGR (been there forever)
33 - MAP Sensor
45 - Rich Exhaust
I had been reading threads on CK5 about flooding, and I was going to jump into checking out my coolant temperature sensor. With this MAP Sensor code coming on, I'll take a look at that first. The Haynes manual says to check the vacuum line to the MAP Sensor, then to check the wiring to the ECM, and finally to just replace the sensor itself.
I need to do some heavy work on my Mitsubishi before jumping into the Blazer, but it is tremendously exciting to have a new clue.
It is funny to think that Ron came over in September of last year and within an hour we diagnosed that the Blazer was flooded. Here I am in May of 2021 still trying to figure it out. I am going to be so excited when this is finally behind me and the Blazer is solid again.
I bought two new (reman) fuel injectors and got them installed. Then I went ahead and did the IAC reset procedure once more. I've been driving the Blazer around in order to help the IAC learn. Unfortunately, I think that the engine is still flooding. Driving it around right now is 100% dangerous. I have to two-foot it and I have to have my foot on the gas pedal pretty hard to keep it from dying.
I just got home from drive #3 since resetting the IAC. My Service Engine Soon light came on and stayed on. I read the codes.
32 - EGR (been there forever)
33 - MAP Sensor
45 - Rich Exhaust
I had been reading threads on CK5 about flooding, and I was going to jump into checking out my coolant temperature sensor. With this MAP Sensor code coming on, I'll take a look at that first. The Haynes manual says to check the vacuum line to the MAP Sensor, then to check the wiring to the ECM, and finally to just replace the sensor itself.
I need to do some heavy work on my Mitsubishi before jumping into the Blazer, but it is tremendously exciting to have a new clue.
It is funny to think that Ron came over in September of last year and within an hour we diagnosed that the Blazer was flooded. Here I am in May of 2021 still trying to figure it out. I am going to be so excited when this is finally behind me and the Blazer is solid again.
