CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Will this linkage (seems to run from steering shaft down to transmission) move if I shift the truck into neutral? It is blocking my upper shackle bolt on the driver's side from coming out.
Yes it will move.
liquid wrench is your friend always juice up the fasteners before you loosen, then a little more.
Man, I had a tough night last night. I got some things done but hit a lot of snags.
First thing's first... I got everything squared up with ORD. I ordered the HD front shackle kit and am just going to return the spring eye bushings when they get here.
So here's what happened last night:
I have the frame supported by two 6-ton jack stands, each having two 2x4 blocks on them (between the jack and the frame). Perhaps I need to find a way to get the frame even higher instead of thinking about how to get the front axle lower.
Thanks for anyone's input or comments. Sorry for the wall of text. I was super pissed last night and it feels therapeutic to type it all out.
First thing's first... I got everything squared up with ORD. I ordered the HD front shackle kit and am just going to return the spring eye bushings when they get here.
So here's what happened last night:
- Driver side:
- I figured I would try removing the upper shackle bolt and then just remove the leaf spring from the truck with the shackle still attached.
- I was blocked from getting to the upper spring bolt by a plastic guard, so I removed a couple of bolts holding it in and pushed it out of the way. No big deal.
- The nut came off of the upper shackle bolt no problem. I then tried using a punch to knock the bolt out of the frame.
- As I knocked the bolt out, the spring "rebounded" more and more and pushed the shackle upward... so it became harder and harder to continue punching the bolt out through the hole in the shackle. I got to the point where I was using a small flathead screwdriver as a punch.
- I realized that I was blocked by the linkage mentioned a couple of posts back, so after posting I moved over to the passenger side...
- I am just now seeing your guys' responses, so thank you for letting me know that I can just shift the truck into neutral. I'll do that tonight.
- Passenger side:
- Moved the same plastic guard and removed the nut off of the upper shackle bolt.
- I quickly realized that the upper shackle bolt would be blocked from coming out on this side as well (this time by my exhaust).
- I fought with the three nuts that attach the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold on each side, but eventually got all six of them off and moved my exhaust out of the way.
- I began punching out the bolt on the passenger side. I quickly was fighting with the same issue where the leaf spring was rebounding and making it difficult to punch out the bolt.
- Next I tried to fix the leaf spring rebound problem by lowering the front axle. I figured that if I could lower the front axle enough then eventually the leaf spring would be fully rebounded and it could come down far enough for me to easily access the upper shackle bolt through the hole in the shackle.
- I maxed out my brake lines, so I removed them from the caliber at the banjo bolt. I got brake fluid everywhere, but they came off fairly easily.
- I then had to deal with the line coming off of the pumpkin on the front axle. What is this thing? I figured it was a vent tube but it runs up into the engine bay and attaches to a metal line further up. It would NOT come off of the pumpkin, so I am going to try again tonight...
I have the frame supported by two 6-ton jack stands, each having two 2x4 blocks on them (between the jack and the frame). Perhaps I need to find a way to get the frame even higher instead of thinking about how to get the front axle lower.
Thanks for anyone's input or comments. Sorry for the wall of text. I was super pissed last night and it feels therapeutic to type it all out.
The line coming off the pumpkin is the vent.
When I do front springs I use a set of really tall stands to put the frame on. The front tires have to be removed. Then it's a matter of figuring out how low to drop the front axle until there isn't any tension on the shackle. The trick is not dropping so far the axle is hanging from the shackle, but also not up so far that it's pushing up on the shackle either.
Yes it is best to have each the axle and truck supported separately.
Understand the upgrade and fix the issue found excitement, but we can give ya few pointers.
You are doing the brake lines so opening the hydraulic system in this case was a good call. Always replace the copper washers if you remove the banjo bolts. If there were no reason to open the hydraulic system, remove calipers instead.
Upper front shackle bolts, 2 words, sawsall replace.
Be super gentle with those exhaust manifold studs, use penitrent oil. And new nuts.
I
Understand the upgrade and fix the issue found excitement, but we can give ya few pointers.
You are doing the brake lines so opening the hydraulic system in this case was a good call. Always replace the copper washers if you remove the banjo bolts. If there were no reason to open the hydraulic system, remove calipers instead.
Upper front shackle bolts, 2 words, sawsall replace.
Be super gentle with those exhaust manifold studs, use penitrent oil. And new nuts.
I
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I will take another look at it tonight. It seemed like it was connected to a metal line, which surprised me - I would have expected it to just "terminate".
It does connect to a metal line and then into another soft line by the steering box which then terminates up by the headlight.
Yes, it's a lot of work, but as the Madolorian says "this is the way."
Last night was a bit better. Less sweating and less swearing.
I was able to remove the vent tube from my front axle and then dropped it way down onto some smaller 2-ton jack stands. This allowed the springs to fully rebound. From there, the passenger side front leaf spring (and shackle) came out fairly easily:
You can see that half of the spring has a lot of grime on it and that half of it is clean... I think the grime could be from my transfer case vent tube. I wasn't sure how to route that tube when I first encountered it a while back, and I ended up putting it through the leaf spring shackle. When handling it last night I found a big hole in it just before the end of the tube.
Anyhow, I then moved onto the driver's side leaf spring. I tried shifting the truck into neutral in order to get the linkage out of the way, but it didn't want to shift out of park. I am guessing that the reason for that is because I don't have brakes anymore now that I've disconnected both front brake lines. The pedal goes straight to the floor. So, I sprayed the linkage bolt with some PB Blaster and then used a breaker bar to get it off. The upper shackle bolt came out easily after that.
I thought I was home free, but I was dead wrong. On the driver's side leaf spring, the bolt in the front is completely seized to the spring eye bushing. You guys warned me that that might happen, and you were right. So I tried heating it first... I put a butane torch to it for about 5 minutes while I cleaned up the garage. Then I whacked on it and it still wouldn't budge. So, I broke out the sawzall. I had never used a sawzall before last night. The only reason I have one is because my dad gave me his when he was in town recently. It was pretty fun to use it, but this thing is totally useless... I couldn't cut into the bolt much at all. It's just a cheap sawzall from Harbor Freight.
Here are some pictures... any tips for me (different blade, different sawzall)?
EDIT: Some new parts (springs, u-bolts, new bushings that I won't use) come TODAY!
I was able to remove the vent tube from my front axle and then dropped it way down onto some smaller 2-ton jack stands. This allowed the springs to fully rebound. From there, the passenger side front leaf spring (and shackle) came out fairly easily:
You can see that half of the spring has a lot of grime on it and that half of it is clean... I think the grime could be from my transfer case vent tube. I wasn't sure how to route that tube when I first encountered it a while back, and I ended up putting it through the leaf spring shackle. When handling it last night I found a big hole in it just before the end of the tube.
Anyhow, I then moved onto the driver's side leaf spring. I tried shifting the truck into neutral in order to get the linkage out of the way, but it didn't want to shift out of park. I am guessing that the reason for that is because I don't have brakes anymore now that I've disconnected both front brake lines. The pedal goes straight to the floor. So, I sprayed the linkage bolt with some PB Blaster and then used a breaker bar to get it off. The upper shackle bolt came out easily after that.
I thought I was home free, but I was dead wrong. On the driver's side leaf spring, the bolt in the front is completely seized to the spring eye bushing. You guys warned me that that might happen, and you were right. So I tried heating it first... I put a butane torch to it for about 5 minutes while I cleaned up the garage. Then I whacked on it and it still wouldn't budge. So, I broke out the sawzall. I had never used a sawzall before last night. The only reason I have one is because my dad gave me his when he was in town recently. It was pretty fun to use it, but this thing is totally useless... I couldn't cut into the bolt much at all. It's just a cheap sawzall from Harbor Freight.
Here are some pictures... any tips for me (different blade, different sawzall)?
EDIT: Some new parts (springs, u-bolts, new bushings that I won't use) come TODAY!
Shifting has nothing to do with the hydraulic side of the brakes. If I remember correctly, there is a switch that gets depressed to allow the shifter to move. If you've got the battery unhooked that might be why. Also be sure to turn your key to the run position.
Go to lowes or Home Depot and get decent blades. Milwaukee or DeWalt blades will cut that bolt. Might take a couple but harbor freight blades are garbage.
The saw you have works with good blades. I have the same one and sawed through tons of stuff with it. It will get the job done.
The saw you have works with good blades. I have the same one and sawed through tons of stuff with it. It will get the job done.
Stupid question, but do you have to push down pretty hard onto the cutting surface with the sawzall? I was using my scrawny arm muscles to do it last night but if it helps to apply more force then I'll stand up and try to put my whole body weight into it.
No if the blade is cutting, only moderate pressure is needed
The blade does the work. Like Wes said moderate pressure is all that’s needed to keep blade chewing.
More pressure usually wipes the teeth off the blade.
More pressure usually wipes the teeth off the blade.
Like others mentioned, the first thought I had when I saw you pictures was buy better blades. I like the Diablo blades.
I'm not a huge fan of sawzall which is why it's about the only Milwaukee cordless tool I DON'T own. I do have a corded saw if I really need to use one. Your bent up blade is an indicator of one of the things I hate about them; you have to be careful the end doesn't hit something. I would use an angle grinder and cutoff wheel instead.
I'm not a huge fan of sawzall which is why it's about the only Milwaukee cordless tool I DON'T own. I do have a corded saw if I really need to use one. Your bent up blade is an indicator of one of the things I hate about them; you have to be careful the end doesn't hit something. I would use an angle grinder and cutoff wheel instead.
I became a fan of Diablo blades.
I get carbide tipped blades when I can, do a much better job
