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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
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Been a while since I last checked in. Still working on this job unfortunately. I don't get enough time with it as I'd like.

All of the new parts came in. When doing inventory I realized that I still had to remove the old bushings from the upper shackle mounting positions. The driver's side has been kicking my ass. The bushing is seized in there really badly. I found an old thread where a guy said that he used a sawzall to cut the "shoulders" of the bushing off on each side and it made it easier... so I did that. I was worried about cutting into the actual mount in the frame but it seemed to have worked out okay.

I gave @ZooMad75 a ring and he told me about what he and Larry did on his... they made a homemade puller of sorts by placing a big socket over one side of the bushing. Then they ran a long bolt through everything and used a nut on the other side to tighten that bolt down. As they kept tightening, the bolt was pulled through and thus forced the seized bushing out.

My dumb ass has made two trips to Home Depot so far and tonight I need to make a third. First I went on a whim while doing other errands and didn't know what size bolt to get. I went to the HD Shackle Kit page on ORD's website and read the description... "This shackle kit increases the bolt size from 7/16" to 1/2" and increases the side-plate thickness to 3/8" for improved durability."... I bought a 1/2" bolt like an idiot. It was obviously too big. Real facepalm moment. Then I went back and got a super long 3/8" bolt like this one. It started to work but since the bolt doesn't have a sturdy spot for a wrench on the end of it I eventually rounded it off and the bolt would just spin. So tonight I am going to go back and look for a similar bolt that has an end on it that I can get a socket onto.

My fingers are crossed that the passenger side comes out a bit easier. I need to have this thing ready for a camping trip to Moab by Friday the 29th. :doah:
 
I’ll have time Sunday to help if you need it. Just text me. I’ll I have is some yard work in the plans.

Saturday I need to go fix my BIL’s ‘53 Chevy truck.
 
If down to last resorts, you can burn out the rubber, split the shell with a hack saw blade, then curl it out. Is stinky and a little time consuming but an option.
Just to clear your new front upper shackle bushings are for 1/2" bolt?
I thought that was only if you upgraded to the 1 1/2" hanger from from the stock 1 1/4" bushings
 
@Wes Harden it looks like that is the case. I haven't gone out and measured the bolts or anything but the website says that the HD shackle kit comes with 1/2" bolts.

These upper bushings are incredibly stubborn... I'm kicking myself for trying to replace them when they were "fine" so to speak.

Here are pics from tonight...

First, I found out why the bolt last night was just spinning. We heard a loud pop when tightening everything down. This was the wrench that I was using to hold the bolt in place. It actually stayed stuck in there after snapping. Took forever for me to get it out.

PXL_20220722_030716322.jpg

I am a little worried that I got too trigger happy with the hacksaw. Here are some pics that show my upper bushings that are seized inside the mount. It's clear that I cut into the mount a little bit. Do you guys think I can smooth out this surface with a file and keep using it?

Outer side of frame rail:

PXL_20220722_041557606.jpg

Inner side of frame rail:

PXL_20220722_041653750.MP.jpg

I picked up a 3/8" x 8" galvanized steel hex bolt to use tonight during Home Depot trip #3. This way I can get a socket on each end as I tighten it down. I actually managed to get my impact gun on one side, but the bolt snapped on me:

PXL_20220722_041715726.jpgPXL_20220722_041728721.jpg

So then after a while I decided to try heating up the bushings. I put a propane torch on them for maybe 5 minutes. After that I hit them with a punch but they didn't budge at all.

Tomorrow the plan is to get a stainless steel bolt to replace the galvanized one. Maybe I'll try to find a grade 8 or something.

Separately, I mentioned a weird leak a while back near one of my body mounts. Here are some pictures of that leak. Anybody see something like this before?

Shot of outer side of frame rail:

PXL_20220722_042514685.jpg

Shot of inner side of frame rail:

PXL_20220722_042629211.jpg
 
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if you are going to torch the bushings burn the rubber out, you can drill around through the rubber to takes longer. If you burn, have another person there to fire watch and a fire extinguisher.
Galve bolts are weak, stainless is kinda soft too, esp if good stainless, get a good grade 8 bolt or alloy steel all thread, some extra grade 8 nuts and make sure to use some grease or oil on the threads when you are pulling the bushings.
Do you have an air compressor ? A good air hammer would be the go to for me at this point. Spitballing here, rent a ball joint press set up from vato zone, not sure if enough room to use thou.
I can't tell how much material is missing from the front upper shackle hangers, I think they'll be ok.
Still not sure if you have the correct bushings, bolt, and hanger for the front upper shackle hanger.
If in fact you do need to replace those front upper shackle hangers, ORD make an up grade to 1 1/2" id, if you don't want to invest any more money at this time I have a set of stock I took off my burb, I would send you, you'll have to deal with rivets then.

what does that leak smell like ?? might be brake fluid. Or could be from something in the bed ?? How about vent line from t case or diff ?
 
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@Wes Harden I'll get back to you ASAP - just gotta laugh at myself a second on how bad I messed up tonight.

Went to HD to look for grade 8 bolts. They had 7/16" x 6", but only about 2" on the end had threads. I figure okay that's my best option I'll pick a couple of them up. I got some nuts to match. Buying the bolt that wasn't completely threaded was mistake #1.

6" isn't long enough, I need an 8" bolt. So I think okay I'll use a shallower socket. I have one that is just large enough to fit on the mount. Using too shallow of a socket was mistake #2.

When putting the new nut onto the bolt with everything in place, I didn't use a big enough washer that would pull the bushing material through. I used a small washer. That was mistake #3.

Fired away with the impact gun. I guess that was the ultimate mistake of the evening so we'll call that mistake #4.

So where I find myself right now is that I've got the inner sleeve of the bushing part of the way out. I've got two nuts buried in the bushing material. And I have no way of getting the rest of the sleeve out. It looks like this:

PXL_20220723_001417374.MP.jpg

I have been trying to use leverage to get the sleeve the rest of the way out. Of course the nuts that are buried inside the bushing material are dragging through as I pull.

I think to myself... I need something with long prongs to get a decent grip on this socket...




PXL_20220723_001357918.MP.jpg
F*** my life lol
 
Pound that bolt back through. And disassemble it or cut it off and pound it through.
Drive the inner bushing out destroy the rubber with fire if needed. That will leave a thin metal shell inside front upper shackle hanger. With a hack saw blade gently cut this shell try not to damage the hanger. Once the shell is split, curl it out with 1/4" cold chisel and a soft faced hammer.
 
I used a jigsaw to cut through the inner metal bushing, through the rubber, and through the outer shell. Then I used a cold chisel and a 5lb sledge and went to town.
 
Would an Autozone loaner ball joint press fit up there? How about cutting the sleeve off as short as you can right now and then pounding it through the other way?

Did you say you don't have an air chisel?

I'm thinking when I did mine I bought oversized hangers from DIY4x, so it was just the pain of rivets. I can see how those bushings suck while still on the frame.
 
Had a strong working session last night. @ZooMad75 came over and really helped me out.

Within five minutes of him coming over, the stupid contraption that I built was knocked out of the bushing material. I think I am just weak because Zoo was able to just knock that f***er out of there. The inner sleeve obviously came with it.

After that, we were left with the bushing material. We first tried pushing it out with the AutoZone ball joint press. Unfortunately the press just dug into the bushing material and didn't really push anything out. Next, we disassembled a hacksaw that I had in the garage and then reassembled it while the blade was going through the hanger. Zoo cut a V notch into the bushing material, and then we used a cold chisel to try and knock out that "strip". We made some progress but ultimately had to burn the outer bushing out of the hanger. It took perhaps 5-10 minutes with a propane torch. Once the outer bushing was burned out, we were able to knock the inner bushing out of the hanger with a socket. Major relief... I was on cloud nine seeing that old stuff finally come out.

There was no outer shell of metal within the hanger. It appears that the prior owner, when doing the lift on my Blazer, had replaced the stock bushings with poly bushings. I spent the next 15 minutes or so smoothing out the outer hanger surfaces (and the inside of the hanger) with a file. Zoo and I took a few minutes making sure that we had the right bushings per the ORD instructions, then I got into reassembly while Zoo started working on my brake lines.

We really questioned whether to start in on replacing the passenger side hanger bushings. I had not touched them yet - I had focused 100% on the driver's side up until that point. They were in fine enough shape. One argument against replacing them was that I could make my camping trip on Friday without much issue because we were "done" with removing the old stuff. The argument for replacing them was that they would match the driver's side (i.e. "doing it right"). We talked about whether we could hang the HD shackle with the old bushings in place, but decided against doing that because the stock bolt diameter is smaller and thus it would "rattle" inside the HD shackle. Luckily, the passenger side stuff came out easy. The sleeve drove out of the bushings super easily and then I was able to remove the old outer bushing by using a couple of screwdrivers and a hammer. The inner bushing was driven out with a socket just like the driver's side. I cannot explain why the passenger side was so easy and the driver's side was such a PITA. Zoo had the same experience... his driver side fought him and Larry whereas the passenger side came out with ease.

Anyhow, the night ended with Zoo suggesting that I get a flare nut wrench set in order to avoid rounding off my brake line nuts. He sprayed down the nuts with PB Blaster and I may do that again this afternoon. I got the new kevlar hanger bushings in and the HD shackles hung. I have yet to attach the leaf springs.

An absolutely HUGE thank you to Zoo for coming over and helping me out. Not only did he physically lay under my truck and work on it with me, but having him around kept me positive. I'm pretty excited to get into reassembly. The brake lines are a little scary but I'll stop by Harbor Freight to pick up a flare nut wrench set and will look into that job separately to make sure I have it down.
 
That’s great news! I can’t believe yours fought so hard. Mine were simple as could be.

Brake lines are straight forward but when breaking them loose don’t go full hog on them. Slowly build up the pressure on the nut. Last thing you want to do is twist the line off with the nut or put a crack in it and then you are into a much bigger repair. Seen the nuts seized to the lines plenty of times.
 
shima said:
Had a strong working session last night. @ZooMad75 came over and really helped me out.

Within five minutes of him coming over, the stupid contraption that I built was knocked out of the bushing material. I think I am just weak because Zoo was able to just knock that f***er out of there. The inner sleeve obviously came with it.

After that, we were left with the bushing material. We first tried pushing it out with the AutoZone ball joint press. Unfortunately the press just dug into the bushing material and didn't really push anything out. Next, we disassembled a hacksaw that I had in the garage and then reassembled it while the blade was going through the hanger. Zoo cut a V notch into the bushing material, and then we used a cold chisel to try and knock out that "strip". We made some progress but ultimately had to burn the outer bushing out of the hanger. It took perhaps 5-10 minutes with a propane torch. Once the outer bushing was burned out, we were able to knock the inner bushing out of the hanger with a socket. Major relief... I was on cloud nine seeing that old stuff finally come out.

There was no outer shell of metal within the hanger. It appears that the prior owner, when doing the lift on my Blazer, had replaced the stock bushings with poly bushings. I spent the next 15 minutes or so smoothing out the outer hanger surfaces (and the inside of the hanger) with a file. Zoo and I took a few minutes making sure that we had the right bushings per the ORD instructions, then I got into reassembly while Zoo started working on my brake lines.

We really questioned whether to start in on replacing the passenger side hanger bushings. I had not touched them yet - I had focused 100% on the driver's side up until that point. They were in fine enough shape. One argument against replacing them was that I could make my camping trip on Friday without much issue because we were "done" with removing the old stuff. The argument for replacing them was that they would match the driver's side (i.e. "doing it right"). We talked about whether we could hang the HD shackle with the old bushings in place, but decided against doing that because the stock bolt diameter is smaller and thus it would "rattle" inside the HD shackle. Luckily, the passenger side stuff came out easy. The sleeve drove out of the bushings super easily and then I was able to remove the old outer bushing by using a couple of screwdrivers and a hammer. The inner bushing was driven out with a socket just like the driver's side. I cannot explain why the passenger side was so easy and the driver's side was such a PITA. Zoo had the same experience... his driver side fought him and Larry whereas the passenger side came out with ease.

Anyhow, the night ended with Zoo suggesting that I get a flare nut wrench set in order to avoid rounding off my brake line nuts. He sprayed down the nuts with PB Blaster and I may do that again this afternoon. I got the new kevlar hanger bushings in and the HD shackles hung. I have yet to attach the leaf springs.

An absolutely HUGE thank you to Zoo for coming over and helping me out. Not only did he physically lay under my truck and work on it with me, but having him around kept me positive. I'm pretty excited to get into reassembly. The brake lines are a little scary but I'll stop by Harbor Freight to pick up a flare nut wrench set and will look into that job separately to make sure I have it down.
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Drew, you were 80% there without me showing up. But I know mentally anybody can’t hit a wall on a problem and not be able to see the solution. We’ve all been there. Hell, like you said mine fought us and we had to punt to come up with the puller we made to get through it.

It was a pleasure to hang out and help. You have a great space to work in over there.

Remember don’t tighten the spring eye bolts and upper hanger bolts until you have the weight of the truck sitting on it. Use ORD’s torque values to tighten them too.

Tighten the u-bolts to 130ft/lbs on the first pass and bump it to 150 for the final. Cut the excess off the u-bolt when done. I think I ran a second nut down snug and then cut it so I could get them all the same.

You are totally on the downhill side of the job. Just stay with it.
 
Blue85 said:
Way to represent the brotherhood @ZooMad75.:waytogo:
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Giving credit where it’s due, @shima came over and helped when my clutch wouldn’t bleed at all. Helping each other is part of the plan anyway.

Drew, don’t sell yourself short on strength. I’m overweight and out of shape. My only advantage I had is knowing *where* to hit. It’s all experience that you are gaining with each project. Us older farts just got a head start on you.
 
Flare nut wrenches are not something you want skimp on. Pop for the Icon brand at HF, I haven't tried them but the 1 or 2 Icon branded tools I have used seem to be decent quality. O r go to Lowes and get Craftsman. My personal pref is Snap on but a set of those you could pay some one to do it.

Be sure to use a second wrench on the opposite side of flare nut, steady pressure when breaking loose, keep the wrenches square with the nut. If you feel resistance after they break loose, lube and go back in, then out again, do this as often as you need. Be sure to clean the nuts and tubing ends with brake clean. Brake fluid and oil do not mix.

Going back together fingers only first several threads, it is very easy to cross thread a tube nut that size. No Teflon needed. Snug down with flare and back up wrench. After bleeding brakes go back and inspect all the connections if there is any wetness tighten a little more, hit with brake clean, work the brake pedal, and reinspect.
Good luck Drew glad you got your new bushings in.
 
@Wes Harden thanks for the advice, I'll absolutely pick up the Icon wrenches... and thank you for the tips on the brake line job.

One thing that I forgot to mention in my prior post is that Zoo took a look at the leak I have going on in back. It seems to be ATF. There is a small drip coming from the output of the transfer case (which is annoying because I replaced that output seal about 10k miles ago). There is also a drip coming out from near the universal joint on the slip yoke. I guess while the driveshaft spins it is flinging ATF everywhere. The plan on that is to take the Blazer to a spray bay as soon as I have it back on the road so that I can see things more clearly. Zoo didn't think that my body mount looked too bad which was a relief.
 
Don't waste money on Craftsmen flare wrenches. They are junk. If you can find a good deal on used Snap On, that would be my recommendation.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Don't waste money on Craftsmen flare wrenches. They are junk. If you can find a good deal on used Snap On, that would be my recommendation.

Martin
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I bought SK brand and they are a night day improvement over craftsman. Not sure how they compare on price.
 
My 1st set in the 70's was sk. While they did the job ok I wasn't overly impressed. I learned to use an open end on most fittings. My go to these days are 3/8 drive flare nut crows feet, Snap on, metric and sae.
 
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