I was bummed I couldn’t stay all day to help. The three of us can usually get things done fairly quick. We don’t get much time in the shop together, its usually trail repairs.
CK5
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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning
- Thread starter shima
- Start date
First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
Gotta fix it quick so we can get back to wheeling.
Engine stumble most likely is ignition. EGR shouldn't fix it. Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, ignition moduel, 99% guarentee one of those parts will fix your issue
Thanks man! I've replaced all of those except the ignition module at this point. Probably worth it to take a look at mine.
Ignition moduel do weird things. Order one and change it out. Next if that dosnt work then id go for the Ignition pick up coil, in that case just replace the whole distributor which will come with a Ignition moduel. Catch 22 situation.
Just to tood out some of my personal experience.
I had a new Spectra distributor that the module barely made a 10 mile test drive. It started having problems, but fortunately got me up the last hill to get home. Swapped the original module from the worn out OEM distributor and it was fixed. I had read where guys were having that exact problem before buying.
I had a new Spectra distributor that the module barely made a 10 mile test drive. It started having problems, but fortunately got me up the last hill to get home. Swapped the original module from the worn out OEM distributor and it was fixed. I had read where guys were having that exact problem before buying.
I have used 3 or 4 billet hei distributors. Proform Spectra otgers, didn't like any of them.
None ofbthem lasted mire than a year. Modules were swapped for ac delcos before for first use.
Back before Chinese clones were every where
None ofbthem lasted mire than a year. Modules were swapped for ac delcos before for first use.
Back before Chinese clones were every where
Distributors are a part i spend money on. Don't buy cheap. Put it in and never think about it again and marvel at how easily a 30 year old truck starts.
Guys, am I doing this right????
I probably should have gone for a magnetic angle finder like @mrk5 suggested, but I had bought this plastic angle finder thing from HF a long time ago and basically forgot about it. I saw it on my bench tonight and decided to go for it.
Here are the measurements I got from eyeballing it as best I could:
So I need... a 6 degree shim that will move the pinion down six degrees so that there will be 8 degrees of difference on both sides (?)
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it guys!
I probably should have gone for a magnetic angle finder like @mrk5 suggested, but I had bought this plastic angle finder thing from HF a long time ago and basically forgot about it. I saw it on my bench tonight and decided to go for it.
Here are the measurements I got from eyeballing it as best I could:
- Driveshaft is angled 2 degrees up from the pinion side u-joint.
- Driveshaft is angled 8 degrees down from the t-case side u-joint.
So I need... a 6 degree shim that will move the pinion down six degrees so that there will be 8 degrees of difference on both sides (?)
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it guys!
I’d trust a phone app more than the speed square.
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You need a plum bob to use with that square to find ab angle. A piece of string and a small weight, like a nut will do. It would need to hang off of the 90* corner of the square.
That's sort of right, but you don't really care about the angle of the driveshaft. It's the angles of the T-case and the pinion that need to match. As you shim the pinion up, the angle of the driveshaft changes, which moves both of the numbers you posted. As stated, you can measure it with the square and a plumb bob (which is basically what the magnetic angle finder is) or a smartphone app, as most phones have accelerometers built in.
Dude I have no less than three magnetic angle tools in the garage. Just hit me up if you want to borrow one.
I orient the driveshaft so the ujoint caps on the case output and axle side are set top/bottom. This gives a solid flat spot to put the gauge or your phone with the app on. Put the gauge on the bottom cap at the axle and top at the case.
I orient the driveshaft so the ujoint caps on the case output and axle side are set top/bottom. This gives a solid flat spot to put the gauge or your phone with the app on. Put the gauge on the bottom cap at the axle and top at the case.
About the only time you'd care about the angle of the driveshaft itself is if you are concerned about operating angle. In a high-lift scenario you could be running a driveshaft at an angle greater than recommended for a particular u-joint. You shouldn't have that problem.
If you decide you want to get a digital angle finder, this is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=IE0VY1W337XV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TXZwh50xZIb1omRAdx0aqKLqgHOwSNpDNbVgXdS_jFc6SFXVrd2yHEn8EHUwQ1IfU8FPIHX09tEAw1EAfkRO_TmkP88t2gmDNf9a02xiD65XUO4-Q1HzB-RsjdAvPI20bOdSKWuX263MocnaWPw_13pzstBtgY-6VeH5KL_PW9IIOn30OO1M1Lq96kxhaSE5PDYXbelzsHZkuD7HK5YsES8ddw8uFXpxg9pqPI41nIA.NPG5iRuLjdOz5WB7AB83I7B6LFbkqDBHhOE88ZR-Ec0&dib_tag=se&keywords=wixey+digital+angle+gauge&qid=1734457231&sprefix=wixley+di,aps,198&sr=8-1
I do like @ZooMad75 mentioned and I use a socket between the u-joint cap and angle finder to make it easier to set the angle finder flat. Make sure the angle finder is inline with the driveshaft.
If you decide you want to get a digital angle finder, this is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=IE0VY1W337XV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TXZwh50xZIb1omRAdx0aqKLqgHOwSNpDNbVgXdS_jFc6SFXVrd2yHEn8EHUwQ1IfU8FPIHX09tEAw1EAfkRO_TmkP88t2gmDNf9a02xiD65XUO4-Q1HzB-RsjdAvPI20bOdSKWuX263MocnaWPw_13pzstBtgY-6VeH5KL_PW9IIOn30OO1M1Lq96kxhaSE5PDYXbelzsHZkuD7HK5YsES8ddw8uFXpxg9pqPI41nIA.NPG5iRuLjdOz5WB7AB83I7B6LFbkqDBHhOE88ZR-Ec0&dib_tag=se&keywords=wixey+digital+angle+gauge&qid=1734457231&sprefix=wixley+di,aps,198&sr=8-1
I do like @ZooMad75 mentioned and I use a socket between the u-joint cap and angle finder to make it easier to set the angle finder flat. Make sure the angle finder is inline with the driveshaft.
I guess in my head I was thinking that since everything is fixed in place, I can infer the angles of the pinion and t-case by using the driveshaft as a static reference point.
Either way I'll start by trying to rig up a plum bob with a shoelace and a nut and then will measure the t-case and pinion outputs against the vertical plum bob line.
Either way I'll start by trying to rig up a plum bob with a shoelace and a nut and then will measure the t-case and pinion outputs against the vertical plum bob line.
Fixed it ?
You can use the driveshaft as reference no problem, as long as you do the math correctly, any reference works
Ha! I love hanging out with @ZooMad75 regardless of whether there is work to do... so being honest this will probably happen also.
I can come over at some point this weekend. Just let me know what works for you.
Well a little angle finding and boy it’s as off as one could expect. Angle at the t-case output was 6 degrees down. Angle of the driveshaft is 15 degree down and the pinion angle is 14 degrees up.
The pinion to shaft angle is close to flat. The close to 10 degree working angle on the front joint is what concerns me. It is pretty close to how off mine was on my ‘91 when I first put it together.
Hers the problem. His t-case crossmember is already shimmed down 3/4” with the spacers that should be above the frame. If we were to take the spacers away and mount the crossmember direct to the frame like it’s supposed to be the front angle would just be worse. His rear working angle at 1 degrees down is almost perfect for running a CV shaft as is. No shimming needed. (Removing the blocks and shorter u-bolts still needs to be done) I went to the corner of my garage and pulled out my slip yoke style cv shaft I ran on my truck for 7 years prior to me installing the sye on my 241.
Measuring my old driveshaft to Drew’s truck has onus within 1/2” in length which is in the amount of slip on the shaft.
I think it’s the simplest route to getting a driveshaft to work with the shackle flip. The pinion angle is almost perfect just sitting there and with the slight pinion rise under acceleration that rear angle will be right on the money. There is enough length on the slip yoke and then-case output the shaft won’t come out at full droop. All Drew needs to do is get a 1310-1350 conversion u joint for the rear position to mount it up to his 10 bolt yoke.
I know that shaft worked perfectly with the same ORD flip in my truck with a 241 like his. It should work like mine when he puts it in.
That leaves Drew with putting shorter u-bolts on and putting some flat stock in for a spacer on then-case cross member over the round bolt spacers he has right now. At that point I think his driveline will be dialed.
The pinion to shaft angle is close to flat. The close to 10 degree working angle on the front joint is what concerns me. It is pretty close to how off mine was on my ‘91 when I first put it together.
Hers the problem. His t-case crossmember is already shimmed down 3/4” with the spacers that should be above the frame. If we were to take the spacers away and mount the crossmember direct to the frame like it’s supposed to be the front angle would just be worse. His rear working angle at 1 degrees down is almost perfect for running a CV shaft as is. No shimming needed. (Removing the blocks and shorter u-bolts still needs to be done) I went to the corner of my garage and pulled out my slip yoke style cv shaft I ran on my truck for 7 years prior to me installing the sye on my 241.
Measuring my old driveshaft to Drew’s truck has onus within 1/2” in length which is in the amount of slip on the shaft.
I think it’s the simplest route to getting a driveshaft to work with the shackle flip. The pinion angle is almost perfect just sitting there and with the slight pinion rise under acceleration that rear angle will be right on the money. There is enough length on the slip yoke and then-case output the shaft won’t come out at full droop. All Drew needs to do is get a 1310-1350 conversion u joint for the rear position to mount it up to his 10 bolt yoke.
I know that shaft worked perfectly with the same ORD flip in my truck with a 241 like his. It should work like mine when he puts it in.
That leaves Drew with putting shorter u-bolts on and putting some flat stock in for a spacer on then-case cross member over the round bolt spacers he has right now. At that point I think his driveline will be dialed.
